The major bioclimatic zones
The Amazon. This mythical land is Brazil's largest and richest biome in terms of biodiversity. With a surface area of over 4 million km², it occupies almost half of the country. Straddling 6 countries, it is the world's largest watershed, irrigated by its most powerful river, the Amazon. It contains 30% of the world's terrestrial fauna, including thousands of species of fish such as the gigantic and tasty pirarucu, 2,500 species of trees and 30,000 species of plants. This forest is often very dense, with canopies frequently exceeding 30 metres. Legend has it that dozens of species of ants can sometimes be found on the same tree, and that daylight is not perceptible at the foot of the trees in the middle of the day in the densest forest areas. Plant and animal species, and insects in particular, seem gigantic. The victoria regia, a variety of giant water lily, is so large that a child can sit on it. Seemingly hostile to man, this land has been a source of natural resources for people for millennia. Even today, it is in the traditional pharmacopoeia that pharmaceutical companies seek the molecules of tomorrow. However, it was under military rule in the 1960s and 70s that large-scale exploitation began. Irresponsible deforestation, which seems to be increasing under the current government, has demonstrated its great fragility. The forest's strength lies in its ability to self-regenerate. Permanent rainfall washes the soil, depriving it of the mineral substances necessary for plant growth. It is organic decomposition that enables plants to maintain themselves. Deforestation, whether related to timber harvesting or the creation of pastureland, usually by slash-and-burn, will lead to soil lateralisation, paradoxically creating barren soil in place of lush forest.
Today, for travellers discovering the Amazon, the island of Marajó, excursions on the river between Belém and Manaus, boto (pink dolphin) watching and the sandy beaches of Alter do Chão offer a privileged contact with one of nature's most beautiful spectacles.
The mata Atlântica. This Atlantic rainforest, less well known than the Amazon rainforest, is in fact a vital biome for Brazil. Nearly ¾ of the population live in this biogeographical area. The water supply of many of Brazil's major metropolises and the regulation of climatic events (intense rainfall alternating with periods of drought) depend on or are linked to the intense deforestation that this forest undergoes. More than 20,000 plant and animal species can be found here, more than in the whole of North America or Europe, and 35% of all Brazilian species. With almost 850 species of birds, 380 amphibians, 200 species of reptiles, 270 mammals and 350 types of fish, the Atlantic Forest is what ecologists call a "hot spot", i.e. a place that is important for biodiversity, but particularly subject to human activity. This forest is found in 17 states, from Rio Grande do Norte to Rio Grande do Sul, mainly in coastal areas. It is on these coastal areas that Brazil has developed over the last five centuries, clearing this Atlantic forest to grow cities and fields. The pau brasil tree ("ember wood"), which gave Brazil its name, is one of the emblematic trees of the mata, as are the colorful ipê, thearaucaria (Paraná pine) and the jaquitibà. Complex ecosystems (such as mangroves and restinga) combine with forest variations to amplify the importance of preserving this biodiversity. Once occupying almost 1.5 million km², today's forest has shrunk to around 100,000 km². According to the IUCN, a large proportion of endangered animals are inhabitants of this forest, and the long-term impact of deforestation will be all the greater given that, as in many Brazilian biomes, the proportion of endemic varieties is very high. One of the symbols of the struggle of Brazilian ecologists to protect their environment is the friendly little monkey Leontopithecus rosalia or golden lion tamarin. Jaguars, pumas, spider monkeys and Amazona brasiliensis parrots are just some of the forest's hosts.
To preserve the remaining 7% of the forest, which has been damaged since the 19th century by the cultivation of sugar cane, coffee and livestock, 860 Conservation Units (CUs) have been set up. The SOS Mata Atlântica association has shown that, despite measures to protect the forest, deforestation continues to progress. The south of the country is particularly exposed to its effects. Fortunately, however, the "vestiges" of this forest remain significant. The largest UC is the Serra do Mar, with over 315,000 hectares. In his Atlas of Brazil, geographer Hervé Théry recalls that it took the authorities several days to find the carcass of an airliner that had fallen there in the 1980s. Visitors to Rio can immerse themselves in this forest in the Parque nacional da Tijuca, on the Sugar Loaf, or in the Jardim botânico.
The Pantanal is a paradise for birdwatchers and fishermen. This 200,000 km² biome, the smallest in Brazil, comprises the world's largest floodplain, divided between Brazil, Bolivia and Paraguay. Influenced on its margins by the Amazon, Atlantic Forest and Cerrado biomes, the Pantanal's main characteristic is that it contains large numbers of species that are threatened in the other biomes. There are 463 species of birds, 263 species of fish, 41 species of amphibians, 113 species of reptiles and 132 species of mammals. Animal observation, particularly in the rainy season, is much easier than in Amazonia, as the vegetation is more sparse and the observation zones themselves are much more accessible than those in Amazonia. Today, Embrapa satellite images show that 86% of the original biome has been preserved. However, this natural paradise is also under threat, as the two states that share the Pantanal, Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul, are among the country's biggest agri-food producers. Intensive agriculture tends to impact this still relatively protected biome. Mato Grosso is historically a cattle producer, and the biggest fazendeiros are often close to the "bancada ruralista", i.e. the elected representatives and agricultural lobbyists in the Brazilian parliament. Overfishing, legal and illegal hunting, gold mining and the exploitation of cerrados to produce transgenic soya are all responsible for the rapid decline in biodiversity.
Caatinga. In the Tupi language, caatinga means "white forest", as opposed to the dense green forests of the "Mata" zones. Here, the Sertão is the domain of the caatinga. It covers more than 800,000 km², spread across 10 Nordeste states, with semi-arid characteristics. Historically, this biome is representative of the mythological universe of the Nordeste, populated by cangaceiros (highwaymen and heroes, such as Lampião) and leather-hatted vaqueiros leading a starving herd, amid vegetation consisting partly of thorny plants and xerophytes. Despite the apparent poverty of the soils and water deficit, the caatinga is immensely rich in terms of biodiversity, with 178 species of mammals, 591 birds, 177 reptiles, 79 species of amphibians, 241 fish and 221 bees. Less densely populated than the coastal areas, this zone is home to almost 30 million people, many of them poor, and many of them dependent on natural resources. Wood, plants, fruit, domestic and wild animals are harvested by populations with low purchasing power. Like the Amazon, the natural environment is transformed by logging and the grazing of vast areas. Almost half of the original surface of the caatinga has already been modified. The evolution of knowledge and awareness of the heritage dimension, both human and natural, of this exceptional biome have contributed to measures being taken to protect and manage it sustainably.
Cerrado. After the Amazon, this exceptional biome is the largest in Latin America. It occupies 1/5th of the Brazilian territory. The country's main watersheds are formed in these peaks. Savannah-like, it is also one of the planet's major hot spots. The number of endemic species is remarkably high. There are almost 11,000 plant varieties. Zoologists, ecologists and enthusiasts of all kinds are well aware of the importance of the cerrados for Brazil and Brazilian biodiversity. There are 200 varieties of mammal, including the maned wolf that can be seen at Santuário do Caraça. There are more varieties of birds (837) than in the Pantanal, which is considered a birdwatcher's paradise. More "sober" in appearance than the opulent Atlantic and Amazon biomes, this area of plateaus and chapadas is a veritable treasure trove for biodiversity and anthropology. According to data from the Brazilian Ministry of the Environment, more than a third of tropical bees (including friendly stingless mosquito bees) and a seventh of butterflies can be found here. Today, it's in the cerrados that the soya battle is being waged, where environmental interests weigh very little in the balance.
The emblematic animals of Brazil
Brazil is home to some 115,000 animal species, including 9,000 vertebrates and 106,000 invertebrates. This is undoubtedly the country with the greatest biodiversity on the planet. For those accustomed to the great plains of Africa or the forests, Brazil's fauna may seem less spectacular. There are no pachyderms or anthropomorphic monkeys. The ungulates are smaller... and there's no fear of coming face to face with an impressive grizzly bear. Yet it is in Brazil that part of the planet's biodiversity is at stake. 1,200 species are in danger of extinction. Fortunately, the efforts of environmental institutions have enabled some species to emerge from the various "threatened" categories.
The jaguar. Panthera pardus or onça pintada in Portuguese. This is the third largest cat on the planet. It can weigh over 130 kilograms. Beyond the beauty of the jaguar, its presence is a measure of the degree to which the environment has been preserved. A key species at the top of the food chain, it is an excellent indicator of the health of ecosystems and the existence of continuous natural spaces. Some tours offer jaguar photo safaris, but not seeing these animals when they are present is paradoxically a sign that they stay away from man and protect themselves!
The puma. Puma concolor or onça parda, onça vermelha or suçuarana in Portuguese. Another feline emblematic of Brazil... but one that the French more readily associate with Argentina, whose rugby team uses it as its emblem. This is certainly one of the felines with the widest range, from southern Argentina to Canada. It is the second largest cat in America. Not very prolific, the degradation of the biotopes in which it evolves, the multiplication of roads, competition with man for game and the hunting of which it is the object, risk in time bringing its population below the critical survival threshold. The other problem is the ever-increasing frequency with which it is seen near inhabited areas, multiplying the chance of being run over or shot.
The maned wolf(Chrysocyon brachyurus). An emblematic animal of the cerrado. Genetically distinct from the wolf and the fox, it is the largest canid in America. Half of its diet consists of fruit and small rodents, yet it is hunted by farmers for alleged predation on their herds. The reduction in its natural range due to competition with agriculture, the increase in road accidents, and predation by man, sometimes linked to legends that encourage people to make amulets from certain parts of the maned wolf's body, have all led to this emblematic species being classified as vulnerable by the IUCN.
The giant otter(Pteronura brasiliensis), or ararinha in Portuguese, is an almost extinct variety of freshwater otter found in the Amazon basin and Pantanal. This magnificent mustelid, which can weigh up to 45 kilos and grow to a length of 1.8 meters, was hunted for its fur, which was even more prized than that of the jaguar. 23 million heads were harvested for their skins. Biotope degradation caused by human activity then accelerated the species' decline. Today, the species seems to be enjoying a (fragile) renaissance.
The lion tamarin (Leontopithecus rosalia) or mico leao doradao is now a symbol of the fight to preserve the environment. In fact, a worldwide project has been proposed to maintain this critically endangered species of small primate in situ . The Poço das Antas Biological Reserve, in the State of Rio, was the first biological reserve created in Brazil. Its aim was to recreate a biotope conducive to the development of local and/or endemic species, by linking different conservation units via corridors and avoiding fragmentation of animal groups and living spaces. At the same time, to maintain biological diversity in the lion tamarin, a measure was organized to relocate an "invasive" variety of competing primates (lion tamarins). Today, the sight of the lion tamarin in Rio State shows a certain victory for the advocates of responsible human activity.
The boto or Amazonian pink dolphin(Inia geoffrensis) is a legendary animal for many reasons. For the indigenous peoples, the boto is a mischievous creature who insinuates himself into parties and seduces the prettiest girl, taking her to the river where he impregnates her and then abandons her. If he attracted little sympathy, eating his meat inevitably led to madness. Today, the cetacean is endangered and critically endangered, protected and its survival is a testament to man's ability to limit the impact of river traffic, hydroelectric dams, gold mining, deforestation and overfishing on the Amazon. It was traditionally used to make bait with its flesh for fishing piracatinga(Callophysus macropterus). Some agencies offer "encounters" with botos and the chance to swim with them. Is this always beneficial for these graceful dolphins? Perhaps not, but it has triggered a real awareness for the survival of cetaceans and their entire biotope. Scientists have recently discovered a new species of Amazonian dolphin... This news alone shows nature's extraordinary capacity for resilience.
The manatee. The Sirenian order is represented by two species in Brazil: the marine manatee(Trichechus manatus manatus) and the Amazonian manatee(Trichechus inunguis), known in Brazil as the peixe boi. The evocative name of their order is said to resemble the mythical mermaids. They can weigh up to a ton and a half and measure up to 3.50 meters. The coastal manatee is critically endangered in Brazil, because its habitat is so degraded. Mangrove swamps in particular are disappearing, and these are where the manatee hatches and breeds. Young are dying at high rates, and many manatees fall victim to fishing nets. The Amazon manatee is at risk of extinction due to hunting, even though this has been banned since 1973.
Macaw. The Rio cartoon popularized the world's largest psittacine. It's true that macaws, whether blue and yellow (arauna), red(macau) (ara chloropterus) or hyacinth (anodorhynchus hyacinthinus), are birds that impress with their size (up to a metre wingspan and a weight of almost 1.5 kilograms) and beauty. In the Tupi language, the word "a'rarà" means "birds of color". Watching a group of parrots take flight is always a moving sight, and can be seen in the Pantanal as well as in many other places. Unfortunately, some varieties are threatened by animal trafficking and the destruction of their environment.
The pirarucu (Arapaima gigas) is one of the largest freshwater fish in the world. It can measure up to 4.5 meters in length and weigh up to 300 kilos. The emblematic fish of Amazonia, it has been introduced to Malaysia, where it seems to thrive in fish farms. A prehistoric fish, it has a veritable armor that protects it from aquatic predators, including the dreaded piranha. However, in the 1990s, it almost became extinct, a victim of overfishing in the Amazon basin. Brazil then set up the "Mamiraua" sustainable development institute, which has led to successful population management involving local populations.
The anaconda(Eunectes murinus and Eunectes notaeus, endemic to the Pantanal) is another Amazonian giant that both fascinates and frightens; the green anaconda is the largest snake on the planet, if not the largest. Its name derives from the Greek word for "good swimmer", and describes the snake's semi-aquatic lifestyle. Its gigantic size has given rise to many legends. Accidents with humans seem to be relatively rare. It can measure over 8 meters and weigh more than 200 kilos. It is a constrictor snake capable of swallowing prey the size of a capybara (a large rodent measuring 1 metre and 50 kilos), as its jaw can disarticulate.
Animal watching spots in Brazil
The Pantanal is undoubtedly "the place to be" for Brazilian nature lovers. You can see birds, fish and mammals in optimal conditions. You need to choose the right season and, above all, go with accredited, trained guides who can guide you safely. Walks can be made by day or night, on land or by canoe or horseback, to maximize sightings. From Cuiabà and Campo Grande, agencies take care of visitors. You should also make sure that the structures you choose have a low environmental impact.
In the Amazon, excursions can be organized from hotels or agencies in Manaus. You can stay in lodges from which boat trips, canoe trips and nights in the forest can be organized (as in the Mamiraua reserve near Tefé). Human experiences too, as visitors can meet native communities.
Marine wildlife can be observed in the Fernando de Noronha archipelago, the Parque nacional marinho dos Abrolhos, Garopaba, where right whales can be seen in August and October. Dolphins, sharks and rays can also be seen. The Maraù peninsula, with its locality of Barra Grande, is another magical place.
Finally, in Chapada Diamantina, Parque nacional da Chapada dos Veadeiros and Jalapão Park, you can observe the wonders of Brazilian nature, flora and fauna.
