Practical information : Eating out Indonesia
Timetable
Navigating the schedules of restaurants and warungs in Indonesia can be confusing, with time slots that seem to follow their own calendar. Closing days can be a real headache. Add to this the fluctuating crowds, which can turn a quiet dinner into a lively evening, or vice versa. Mealtimes generally follow a routine, with breakfast between 6am and 8am, lunch around 11am to 1pm, an afternoon snack around 3pm to 5pm, and dinner between 6pm and 8pm.
During Ramadan, Muslims change their eating habits. They often have breakfast between 3.30am (or even 3am) and 5am, depending on location and time of morning prayer. Dinner is served between 5:30 and 7:30 p.m., depending on the region and the time of evening prayer. It should be noted that at this time, many restaurants may be closed due to fasting practices.
Budget & Tips
There are all kinds of dining options, from warungs to international restaurants.
Warungs are small, informal and inexpensive restaurants serving a variety of Indonesian dishes, including rice and noodle dishes, soups and snacks. They consist of a few tables and benches bounded by hanging canvas, planks or bamboo. The cuisine can be insipid or sublime. It is served on a plate with cutlery (fork and spoon). The warung is a meeting place, where you eat, nibble, drink hot coffee or tea, chat, speculate, tell stories - in short, the warung is an inimitable social place. Prices are very reasonable.
The kaki lima ("five feet") are street vendors who pass through the streets of the kampungs. They each have their own distinctive music (gong, horn), song or shout, so you can recognize them from home. Don't hesitate to stop them! They offer delicious culinary specialties. The best: putus (a steamed dessert made with rice paste and grated coconut) and bapaos (soft, light steamed buns stuffed with various ingredients such as pork, chicken, beef and vegetables).
Rumah makan are hard-built warungs with real walls, or small, generally unpretentious restaurants. You'll recognize them by the front displaying the different animals cooked: duck, fish, chicken, shrimp, with their names... You point to or try to pronounce the one you think is the most delicious, and the price is calculated (usually under Rp 20,000, even if you've got a big appetite). This will be the most convenient way for you to eat, unless you're part of a package tour where meals in (usually international) restaurants are scheduled in advance.
In Jakarta, home to a large number of expatriates working in international business, restaurants offer a gastronomic range similar to that of any major capital. Traditional Indonesian, Indian, Thai, sometimes French and Japanese cuisine - in short, expertise from all over the world. American fast-food is also well established: Mac Do and Kentucky Fried Chicken are fashionable and a must for young Indonesians, while trendy Westerners of course settle down at the warung. International hotels offer sumptuous buffets at reasonable prices.
Every tourist destination has its share of Western or Westernized restaurants, with a generally very classic menu: from pizza to sushi to hamburgers. Near the ocean, don't resist the excellent seafood specialties; generally, you can choose your fish or lobster, as well as the way it's cooked: fried, grilled, in soup. The Dutch left behind pastries, bread and confectionery. Warungs and small street stalls offer affordable meals, often between 10,000 and 30,000 Rp. For mid-range restaurants, prices generally oscillate between Rp 50,000 and Rp 200,000 per person. Upscale establishments, especially in tourist areas, can charge in excess of Rp 200,000. In hotels and seaside resorts, meals can be more expensive, sometimes reaching over Rp 300,000 per person.
What costs extra
In Indonesia, tipping is not a common practice, except in certain restaurants which automatically include a 10% service charge. If you appreciate the service, don't hesitate to leave a 10-15% tip. Just remember to give this little bonus directly to the waiter to avoid it being shared with others if it's left on the table.
The local way
The diversity of Indonesian dishes varies according to region of origin and ethnicity. Obviously, if you don't venture off the beaten track, you may be stuck with nasi goreng/mie goreng (fried rice/noodles), the Indonesian staple. Otherwise, the choice is quite vast. Indonesian cuisine is relatively sweet and spicy, but again, it's hard to generalize. A lot of herbs and spices are used, but without the dishes becoming ultra-spicy, except in the case of padang cuisine. Coconut milk is also widely used, and soups are plentiful. The basic accompaniment is rice. Alongside this, you'll usually be offered shrimp chips(krupuk), skewers(sate) and a few sauces: sambal (spicy sauce), saus tomat (ketchup), ketchup (in this case, a sweet soy sauce). The most famous Indonesian cuisine is Padang, from Sumatra. Generally very spicy, it features a variety of curries and other preparations. There are all kinds of cooking methods: boiled, fried, grilled, roasted and some typically Indonesian, such as steamed in a banana leaf called " pepes ". In chic restaurants, a dozen different dishes are brought to you and placed on the table in front of you; choose what you like, eat to your heart's content.
In Bali, the diversity of dishes also reflects religious differences, with pork predominating. Babi guling, delicately cooked on a spit, is a must. Duck is also frequently used, with bebek betutu, a duck stewed for at least 24 hours (usually ordered in advance). Manado's lesser-known but equally delicious cuisine features gurame, freshwater fish grilled and accompanied by sautéed vegetables. Ask locals for reliable restaurant recommendations. Locals are often in the best position to know the best places to eat.
To be avoided
Indonesians eat with the fingers of their right hand or with a fork and spoon. Knives are never used! Meat is cut in advance. Perhaps you'll be lucky enough to be invited into an Indonesian home. That's where you'll probably eat best.
Kids
It's generally perfectly acceptable to bring children to restaurants. Restaurants, especially those located in tourist or urban areas, are used to welcoming families.
Smokers
In some places, smoking is allowed outside in restaurants, on terraces or in open areas. However, more and more places, especially in cities, have stricter anti-smoking rules. That said, these rules are not always followed to the letter, and you may see people smoking right next to your table while you're eating.
Tourist traps
Before paying, be sure to check the bill carefully to make sure it matches what you ordered. Report any errors or discrepancies.