Discover Luxembourg : Musics and Scenes (Dance / Theater)

So close, yet so far. As France's neighbor, we often think we know Luxembourg. Yet much of its cultural life remains a mystery. When you think about it, you're tempted to invent sayings like "a small country, a big music scene", such is its dynamism - particularly in the classical field - in relation to the size of the country. Ranked 179thin terms of surface area, Luxembourg regularly shines on the international stage, whether in the hands of a gifted pianist like Francesco Tristano or under the baton of world-renowned conductor Pierre Cao. Another of Luxembourg's great exports is its jazz. A veritable breeding ground for talent, the local scene is home to such renowned names as Gast Waltzing and Pascal Schumacher, to name but a few. All in all, we may have been quicker to discover Luxembourg than its musical output.

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Classical music

It was a few decades after independence, in the second half of the 19th century, that Luxembourg's musical life began to stir. It was during this period that such pillars of the Luxembourg repertoire as Jean-Antoine Zinnen (1827-1898), author of Ons Hémécht (the national anthem) and Laurent Menager (1835-1902), the "national composer", made their mark. Considered one of Luxembourg's most influential and versatile musicians, Menager's main works included songs, church music, orchestral pieces and operettas, as well as music for brass bands and theater. In the 1930s, symphonic music began to develop in the country. A fertile period that saw the birth of the Orchestre symphonique de Radio Luxembourg (the forerunner of the Orchestre philharmonique du Luxembourg) led by Henri Pensis, a conductor who remains among the most illustrious. In the last decades of the 20th century, the Luxembourg repertoire was enriched by a number of major works - both symphonic and chamber music - by the country's leading composers: Jules Krüger, who sought to import his Debussy influences into Luxembourg music; René Mertzig, a pioneer of Luxembourg music best known for his chamber music; Norbert Hoffmann who, along with Krüger and Mertzig, is considered one of the three founding fathers of symphonic music in Luxembourg; Marcel Wengler, president of the Société Luxembourgeoise de Musique Contemporaine and author of some 80 works (symphonies, concertos, chamber music, works for theater and ballet); Georges Lentz, one of Luxembourg's most-played composers; Claude Lenners, one of the most avant-garde (with a penchant for electronics); Alexander Mullenbach, pianist, composer and conductor; and Camille Kerger, opera composer (and singer) and founding member of the Théâtre National de Luxembourg, which he directed until 2006.

As well as its composers, the country can also pride itself on the quality of its performers. Luxembourg boasts a number of internationally renowned soloists, including violinist Sandrine Cantoreggi, award-winning cellist Françoise Groben (1965-2011), Jean Muller, a very popular classical pianist - both within and beyond its borders, precociously talented pianist Cathy Krier and, more contemporary, pianist Francesco Tristano and his skilful blend of avant-garde and electronica (he is also an excellent Bach interpreter). On the operatic side, we should mention soprano Mariette Kemmer, who has performed throughout Europe and the United States. And to round off this impressive series, let's not forget to mention Pierre Cao, the great Luxembourg conductor, well known in France as founder and artistic director of the Arsys Bourgogne choir and the Rencontres Musicales de Vézelay.

All local composers (or almost all) have been performed by the Sinfonietta orchestra, a great promoter of contemporary music in the country and abroad since 1999, and above all by the Orchestre Philharmonique du Luxembourg, a local pride led since 2015 by Gustavo Gimeno (succeeding the great French conductor Emmanuel Krivine, now director of the Orchestre national de France). This institution, which is committed to promoting local composers, also has a very good reputation for its interpretations of twentieth-century French music. Since 2005, the orchestra has been housed in the Philharmonie, a large white building on the Kirchberg plateau. Designed by architect Christian de Portzampac, this new showcase was designed (by Albert Xu) to offer optimum acoustic quality, and can accommodate up to 1,500 people in its Grand Auditorium. A major hub for classical music in Luxembourg, which should not, however, overshadow the quality of the venues spread across the country. Among these, the Conservatoire de Musique d'Esch-sur-Alzette is one of the most important, with its many classical and jazz concerts by internationally renowned artists and groups. The Centre d'arts pluriels Edouard Juncker in Ettelbruck, better known as CAPe, is also a venue renowned throughout the country for the quality and density of its programming.

As for opera, the best stage in the country is undoubtedly the Théâtre national du Luxembourg (TNL), which not only promotes theatrical creation in the country's three languages (Lëtzebuergesch, French and German), but also opera and contemporary musical creation. Opera also takes pride of place at the annual Wiltz Festival, held in the grounds of the château and featuring prestigious guests. An event not to be missed, just like the Echternach International Festival , which since 1975 has offered the chance to experience music in an exceptional setting, whether in the Saints-Pierre-et-Paul church overlooking the town or in Echternach's cultural and congress center, the Trifolion. Less well known but just as picturesque, the Bourglinster Music Festival offers chamber music concerts and recitals in the Salle des Chevaliers.

Jazz

The rule is not infallible, but where there's an abundant classical music scene, there's often an equivalent jazz scene. Luxembourg is no exception. The trumpeter and founder of the Luxembourg National Jazz Orchestra, Gast Waltzing (b. 1956), is undoubtedly the best-known figurehead. Equally popular is pianist and bassist Marc Demuth (b. 1978), who often collaborates with another Luxembourg piano star, Michel Reis (b. 1982). There's also the composer-vibraphonist Pascal Schumacher (b. 1979), who has performed all over the world with his Pascal Schumacher Quartet, the great trumpeter Ernie Hammes (b. 1968) and his big band, the multi-instrumentalist Maxime Bender (b. 1982) and Pol Belardi (b. 1989), more in tune with the current jazz revival.

With a scene like this, there's no shortage of good places to hear jazz in the country. The Théâtre Municipal d'Esch programs some very good jazz, and has a small, intimate hall (100 people) that lends itself well to the genre. The CUBE 521, a cultural center in the Clervaux region, also puts together some fine line-ups, as does the Opderschmelz, an excellent regional cultural center in Dudelange with modern facilities. Dudelange is a particularly jazz-friendly town, with two dedicated festivals: "Like a Jazz Machine" in May and "Touch of Noir" in October. Also on the festival front, the Blues'n'Jazz Rallye, held every year in the old town, is one of the most eagerly awaited musical events for jazz and blues fans.

Contemporary music

Although Luxembourg doesn't have a really active pop or rock scene on the international scene (although indie pop band Seed To Tree are worth mentioning), there are plenty of opportunities to hear it, notably through major events such as Rock Um Knuedler, a rock festival, the E-Lake Festival, a three-day event on the shores of Echternach lake featuring live rock, pop, electro and DJ sets, and World Meyouzik, which, as the name suggests, focuses on world music. Luxembourg is also riddled with good venues dedicated to contemporary music, such as the cultural complex of Les Rotondes and Den Atelier in Luxembourg-City and the Kulturfabrik (or "KuFa") housed in a former abattoir, as well as the Rockhal, a two-hall complex with a strong focus on rock, both in Esch-sur-Alzette.

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