Discover Slovenia : Fine Arts

Slovenia boasts no fewer than a hundred exhibition venues. This shows the importance Slovenians attach to the visual arts. From the pious arts of the Middle Ages to contemporary video art, all artistic currents have developed on its territory. Ljubljana boasts rich collections of paintings, sculptures and photographs from all periods. While Ljubljana does not boast a major museum, the quality of its cultural institutions is undeniable. Its museum of contemporary art is refreshingly dynamic. But when you return from a trip, isn't it the nuggets discovered along the way that you like to remember? Good news: Slovenia's capital is also a hotbed of urban art. The Metelkova center for alternative culture, the most symbolic of all, is sure to surprise with its ability to let resourceful street artists express themselves.

Middle Ages and Renaissance

The medieval period is dominated by religious arts. If the Romanesque art left few traces, the Gothic style lasted after the beginning of the Renaissance. The gothic painting left superb frescoes of which those of thechurch Saint-Jean-Baptiste of Bohinj or the Dance of Death of thechurch of the Holy Trinity of Hrastovlje. The Nardona Galerija, or National Gallery of Slovenia, exhibits splendid original fragments. In the works of this period, Nordic influences blend harmoniously with southern models. Numerous medieval sculpture workshops provided reliefs and sculptures for altar adornment. The highlight of Gothic sculpture in Slovenia is the work of the Ptuj workshop, represented in the collection by the Beautiful Madonna and Pietà of Podsreda. In the 16th century, production declined due to Turkish invasions, peasant revolts and Protestantism, which were not conducive to fine arts.

From Mannerism to Baroque

Although imported works and those by itinerant artists prevailed in the early Baroque period, the 17th century laid the foundations for the future. Slovenian sculpture of this century is dominated by gilded altars, usually polychrome altarpieces carved on wood. They are adorned with vines, which evolved into acanthus leaves, under which architectural forms eventually disappeared. Several techniques were involved in the creation of gilded altars: graphics, sculpture, gilding and painting. The second half of the century saw the blossoming of genre painting and portraits of the nobility.

The mature Baroque period marks the second high point of art in Slovenia. Artistic creation flourished in a stable political environment and favorable economic conditions. Invited Italian artists contributed to the flourishing of all artistic fields. Venetian sculptor Francesco Robba, who produced both religious and secular works, took center stage. In Ljubljana, he was responsible for the Three Rivers of Carniola fountain in the town square, the angels in St. Nicholas Cathedral and the altar in St. James Church.

Rococo and Neoclassicism

The late Baroque saw the emergence of more ethereal secular images. The use of color and light evolved towards rococo. In the collection of the National Gallery of Slovenia, this turn is represented by works by the Venetian Nicol Grassi, Valentin Metzinger from Ljubljana and his successor Anton Cebej, who shows a particular attachment to Venetian influences.

Franc Kavčič is an important representative of European neoclassicism. Although he depicted stories from Greco-Roman antiquity, his message reflected the social changes of his time. In the first half of the 19th century, Kavčič's painting influenced his many Viennese students.

From the Biedermeier to the present day

In Central Europe, social changes were expressed in a style known as Biedermeier. Originating in the decorative arts, Biedermeier reflected a comfortable, bourgeois lifestyle that was felt in all the arts. Portraiture reached its apogee under the brushes of Matevž Langus, Jozef Tominc, Mihael Stroj and Anton Karinger. In the 19thcentury , the Impressionist painter Rihard Jakopič (1869-1943) and the Pointillist Ivan Grohar (1867-1911) stood out. At the beginning of the 20th century, international artistic movements became entwined with national tradition. Once again, the National Gallery of Slovenia is the place to go to discover these different trends.

After the Second World War, art became an instrument of propaganda. Under Tito, sculptors such as Jakob Savinšek and Lojze Dolinar nevertheless managed to combine their artistic sensibility with socialist realism.

Zoran Mušič (1909-2005), a Slovenian painter and engraver, moved away from the mainstream when he settled in France. His career was shaped by the year he spent in Dachau. The drawings he produced during his deportation are priceless witnesses to the horror of the camps. His works can be seen at the Museum of Modern Art (Moderna Galerija or MG), located at the entrance to the huge Tivoli Park. It operates in conjunction with the Museum of Contemporary Art (+MSUM). The former focuses on Slovenian art from the beginnings of modernism: painting, sculpture, prints and drawings, photography and video. The second encompasses all contemporary visual art practices, including the Arteast 2000+ collection of Eastern European avant-garde works from 1960 to the present day.

Good to know: a host of energetic art galleries provide a complementary look at the Slovenian art scene. If we had to name just one, it would probably be the Equrna gallery.

Showcase of alternative art

Last time I checked, street art wasn't completely legal in Slovenia. In some districts, however, it is part of the landscape. The most telling example is Metelkova mesto, a truly autonomous cultural center occupying former military barracks. Following Slovenia's independence, the 12,500 m² complex escaped demolition thanks to local protests. The former soldiers' quarters have been converted into exhibition galleries, workshops, concert halls and bars by young artists. Sculptures in recycled materials, hijacked objects, mosaics, paintings, graffiti and stickers abound in this almost dreamlike setting. The Metelkova basketball court seems to welcome fewer sportsmen than graffiti artists. During your excursion, remember that you are the lucky spectator of an exhibition that will change over the next few days. This alternative venue has even thought of small budgets by building a youth hostel in the district's former military prison. Metelkova is also known as a place of tolerance for many minorities. Here, art brings everyone together, regardless of their origins or preferences.

A second alternative venue, Rog Factory, has been housed in a former bicycle factory since 2006, despite being threatened with eviction. The space is divided into two parts: artistic workshops open to the public and a reception area for people in precarious situations. Whatever happens, this space brimming with creativity and generosity will go down in the city's history.

Fear not, urban art decorates the streets and buildings of every city in the country. Everywhere, it offers an exhilarating visual counterpoint to the capital's minimalist tradition.

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