Going to the North part
Before the first crossing point was opened in 2003, the northern part of Cyprus was already attracting tourists. But they couldn't get to the rest of the island. The same was true for the inhabitants and tourists of the southern part: for them, Cyprus stopped at the buffer zone. Since 2003, everything has changed. With nine crossing points, it is now possible to stay in the south and visit the north, or vice versa. However, there is no public transport between the two parts of the island. And, most importantly, as this is a region illegally occupied by Turkey, you are entering an unrecognized state, the self-proclaimed "Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus". Here, your embassy will officially be unable to do anything for you in the event of a problem.
Embargo. As a result of the Turkish occupation, the northern part of Cyprus is subject to a whole series of legal constraints. The territory is subject to an international embargo. In theory, nothing and nobody can enter or leave. But Turkey does not enforce this embargo, and is the main link between the northern part and the rest of the world.
Formalities. As a citizen of the European Union, Switzerland or Canada, you'll have no trouble getting here: all you need is a valid passport or identity card.
Arrivingfrom the south. You land at eitherLarnaka or Paphosairport. You cross the buffer zone at one of the crossing points and stay for up to 90 days in the northern part (the "Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus" grants an automatic 90-day visa). You can then make as many return trips between the north and south as you like. You then leave either via the southern part, or directly via the northern part (Ercan airport). On the other hand, you can't - in theory - arrive by the North and leave by the South: as you haven't been registered by the local authorities on arrival, you risk being turned away at boarding controls. Sometimes this happens, but it's risky.
Arrivingvia another country. As no state other than Turkey has any official relations with the "Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus", planes and boats serving the northern part of the island must pass through Turkey. By boat, Turkey has regular sea links with the ports of Kyrenia and Famagusta. By air, only connections with Turkey are possible. In any case, once you've arrived, you can travel to the southern part of the island and stay there. But you must then leave via the northern part within 90 days.
Money. The euro is the official currency in Cyprus, including the British Sovereign Base Areas of Akrotiri and Dhekelia, but the Turkish lira is used in the Turkish-occupied area. ATMs can be found near border crossings in the buffer zone, as well as exchange offices, which often offer more advantageous rates. The euro is accepted in some shops in the northern part. On the other hand, Turkish pounds are not accepted in the southern part, except at exchange offices.
Health. Hospitals, doctors and pharmacists are readily available in the Turkish-occupied zone. However, the European Health Card, which is valid in the south, is not valid in the north. Check in advance what your rights are, and if necessary take out an insurance policy covering medical expenses not covered by your usual medical insurance. It is also advisable to take out medical repatriation insurance.
Car rental. The International Driving Permit is valid throughout the island, but it is impossible to enter the southern part of the island with a vehicle rented in the northern part. What's more, some agencies in the southern part of the island are very reluctant to accept customers wishing to cross into the northern part. If you do manage to get a car, you'll need to take out additional insurance when you cross the buffer zone. Your own insurance is not valid in the northern part. There are insurance offices at all crossing points on arrival in the northern zone (daily 8am-5pm, until 10pm at the Agios Dometios-Metehan crossing point - rates: 3 days €20, one month €35).
Limited purchases. At each crossing of the buffer zone, it is forbidden to bring back from the North to the South more than one liter of alcoholic beverages, more than 40 cigarettes, or goods with a total value exceeding €260 per person.
Telephony. No worries. Your cell phone will work as it would in any EU country, North or South. Since 2019, the EU has set up an interoperability system between Cypriot (in the south) and Turkish (in the north) operators. Before that, everything was more complicated, with, in particular, the application of international tariffs in the North zone.
Ethical tourism. Even when it comes to sunbathing and enjoying the many attractions of the northern part of the island, it's hard to come here without asking a few questions. This is European Union territory occupied by the Turkish army, where many international laws are not respected. Tourism here represents an economic windfall, but also a political weapon: every visitor who accepts the illegal controls at the entrance to the northern zone brings a form of implicit recognition to a state not recognized by the international community. Finally, from a practical point of view, as this "country" theoretically doesn't exist, we run the risk of major administrative complications (with the financial costs that go with them) in the event of an accident in this part of the territory. We therefore recommend entering the north of the island with caution. The fact remains that the Turkish Cypriot population - the majority of whom are fed up with the presence of the Turkish army and in favor of reunification - is also hostage to this ubiquitous situation.
The buffer zone
Since 1974, the country has been separated by this 180 km-long demarcation line. It covers 346 km², or almost 4% of the island's surface area. Off-limits except in a few places, it is controlled by peacekeepers in the central part, Greek and Greek Cypriot soldiers in the south and Turkish and Turkish Cypriot soldiers in the north.
A tourist attraction. It's not politically correct to say it, but the buffer zone is one of Cyprus's attractions. With its watchtowers, barbed wire, bunkers and abandoned buildings, this demarcation line is very impressive, especially in Nicosia, the last divided capital. It's the only place in the world where you can see such a separation so easily and safely. Bus excursions are even organized to Varosha, a ghost town next to Famagusta, which was the "Cypriot Saint-Tropez" before 1974. It's true that there are still many mined areas, but these are well-marked and very difficult to access. And with nine crossing points between north and south, you really have to want it to be dangerous. At worst, you risk being called to order if you try to take a photo of the military installations that mark the separation: this is strictly forbidden and clearly signposted in several languages. The soldiers standing guard will remind you of this in a more or less friendly manner. The locals living next door aren't too keen on tourists taking selfies in front of the ruins and barbed wire, either, as the buffer zone remains for them a scar as shameful as it is painful.
"Green line" or "Attila line"? The name "buffer zone" is the same in Turkish (tamponbölge) and English (buffer zone), but the translation is different in Greek, as it is called "dead zone" (nekri zoni). This demarcation line is also known by two other names. Most often, it is nicknamed the "green line"(prasinigrammi in Greek, yeşil hat in Turkish,greenline in English), and this by a fluke of history. In December 1963, during the conflict between communities ("Bloody Christmas"), British troops interposed themselves at certain points. On December 30, their commander, General Peter Young (1912-1976), drew a ceasefire line on a staff map. To do this, he used a green pencil. The name stuck. And it was along this "green line" that the Blue Helmets were deployed from March 4, 1964. However, the name "green line" is disputed, as the original route was modified in certain places during the Turkish invasion in the summer of 1974. This military operation was codenamed Attila. Since then, the nickname "Attila Line" has also been used to designate the buffer zone. It is less common, but more in keeping with reality on the ground.
A not so "dead" zone
The Greek name "dead zone" for the buffer zone is apt, given the dozens of abandoned villages and mined fields that lie between the north and south of the island. But this line is actually much "greener" than you might imagine. Already, it has become a veritable nature reserve, with flora and fauna thriving away from humans. What's more, some farmers are allowed to cultivate fields there. Since 2015, French biologist Nicolas Netien has planted 6,000 olive trees, from which he produces the world's finest olive oil. The buffer zone is also home to a large number of inhabitants: on the one hand, they live in certain districts of Nicosia that are technically located in the buffer zone, and on the other, almost 10,000 people live in four villages that were not abandoned in 1974 and where UN police officers have authority. These are Denia, Athienou, Troulli and Pyla. The latter, located in the Larnaka district, is one of the few places on the island where Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots still live together.
The crossing points between the North and the South
Resembling border crossings, nine crossing points allow you to cross the buffer zone between the north and south of the island. All are open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, except during maintenance work. A valid identity card or passport is required on both sides. In the north, police officers from the "Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus" carry out checks. In the south, the task falls to Cypriot police officers or, in two places, to customs officers from the British zone of Dhekelia. The term " crossing point" is used in English, simio dielefsis in Greek and kapısı in Turkish. From Morphou Bay to the Famagusta region, here are the nine crossing points.
KatoPyrgos-Yeşilırmak (cars, cyclists and pedestrians). Opened in 2010, it is located along the north coast, on Morphou Bay. It links the southern village of Kato Pyrgos (51 km northeast of Polis) with the northern village of Limnitis, renamed Yeşilırmak (33 km west of Morphou). This is the nearest crossing point (11 km) to the Turkish-occupied Kokkina (Erenköy) pocket.
Apliki-Lefka (cars, cyclists and pedestrians). Opened in 2018, it is located between the old Apliki mine (south side) and the small village of Apliki/Aplıç (north side). On the north side, it lies 3 km south of the town of Lefka/Lefke, itself 5 km south of Morphou Bay and 21 km southwest of the town of Morphou/Güzelyurt. On the south side, however, there's nothing close to the crossing point except the old mine (bronze, gold and pyrite). But this opens up Lefka and links the town directly to the Troodos massif, with the high-altitude village of Moutoullas located 14 km south of the demarcation line.
Astromeritis-Bostancı, in Morphou (cars only). Opened in 2005, it is located in no-man's-land, next to a Blue Helmets base, 700 m southeast of the village of Zodia/Bostancı (north side) and 3 km northwest of the village of Astromeritis (south side). It is very convenient for Morphou/Güzelyurt (6 km north).
Agios Dometios-Metehan, Nicosia (cars, cyclists and pedestrians). Opened in 2005, it links the southern and northern parts of Agios Dometios, a Nicosia suburb divided by the buffer zone: the southern part of Agios Dometios (4 km northeast of Nicosia-South) and the northern part, renamed Metehan (6.5 km east of Nicosia-North). This is the busiest of the crossing points, being the closest to Kyrenia, but it is not practical for pedestrians.
Ledra Palace, Nicosia (cyclists and pedestrians). This was the first crossing point to open on April 23, 2003. Located along Nicosia's western rampart, next to the former Ledra Palace Hotel (now a barracks for British peacekeepers), it links the two parts of the capital. Much used by locals until the opening of the Ledra and Lokmacı crossing, it is now mainly used by diplomats (who can cross by car). Nevertheless, it's still a good place to see the Venetian ramparts.
Ledra and Lokmacı streets, Nicosia (pedestrians only). Opened in 2008, it links Nicosia-South and Nicosia-North right in the center of the old town. It is located between the two main shopping streets, one very eastern to the north, the other very western to the south.
Pyla-Beyarmudu (cars and pedestrians). Opened in 2005, it is also called Dhekelia. It links the southern village of Pyla (10 km northeast of Larnaka) with the northern village of Pergamos, renamed Beyarmudu (31 km southwest of Famagusta). The village of Pyla lies in the buffer zone. Customs (SBA Customs) in the British zone of Dhekelia are responsible for controls on the south side.
Black Knight (cars and pedestrians). Opened in 2005, it links the southern village of Agios Nikolaos (15 km northwest of Agia Napa) with the northern village of Strovilia, renamed Akyar (4 km southeast of Famagusta). The village of Agios Nikolaos is in the British zone of Dhekelia. British customs (SBA Customs) are responsible for controls on the south side.
Dherynia-Famagusta (cars and pedestrians). Opened in 2018, it is located in the abandoned village of Kato Dherynia (Aşağı Derinya or Aşağı Derinköy in Turkish). It takes you from Dherynia (south side) to the industrial zone of Famagusta (north side), skirting the abandoned seaside resort of Varosha. It lies 6 km north of Paralimni and 12 km north of Agia Napa (south side) and 7 km south of Famagusta town center (north side). It is the most convenient crossing point to Famagusta (Gazimağusa in Turkish) from the southern part.
Foreign military presence
In addition to the ultra-secure "green line", the island is riddled with zones guarded by Turkish, Greek and British soldiers. The northern part is even considered the most militarized region in the world. So, on a stroll through Cyprus, you can quickly find yourself in a restricted area without even realizing it.
Blue helmets. The United Nations Peacekeeping Force in Cyprus (UNFICYP) is made up of some 900 military, police and civil servants from some 20 countries, and is small in number but highly visible in the buffer zone. You'll come across blue-capped UN policemen from Bosnia and Australia at every crossing point between north and south. Blue-helmeted soldiers, mainly British and Argentinian, patrol mainly within the buffer zone. They are also responsible for supplying the few Greek Cypriot and Maronite inhabitants of the northern part, in the villages of Rizokarpaso and Kormakitis. UNFICYP headquarters are located in the abandoned Nicosia airport, in the buffer zone to the west of the capital.
Turkish and Greek soldiers. The flags of Greece and Turkey fly along the buffer zone. Soldiers from both nations still stand guard to the north and south of the island. Under the 1960 Cypriot constitution, Athens and Ankara were each required to maintain small contingents on the island, in theory to "guarantee the security of the country". In reality, this military presence has caused more problems than anything else. On the Athens side, the commitment was more or less respected, with a further 1,000 soldiers present alongside the 12,000-strong Cypriot Guard. But the Greek army took part in the coup d'état against President Makarios on July 15, 1974. And this pretext was used by Ankara to launch the invasion of the northern part a few days later. The Turkish contingent in Cyprus, which had stood at 6,000 men before 1974, suddenly swelled to 40,000. In the late 1990s, the UN secured the departure of part of this occupying army. But according to UN estimates, some 30,000 Turkish troops remain on the island. And a small "Turkish Cypriot army" of around 8,000 men has been created in the meantime. This makes the northern part of the island the most heavily militarized territory in the world in relation to its population. This is evidenced by the military barracks and grounds found everywhere from Nicosia-North to the Karpas peninsula. In short, we're a long way from the numbers expected in the event of reunification: only 900 Greek soldiers and 650 Turkish soldiers would be allowed to stay.
British soldiers. There are some 3,800 of them on the island, mainly in the sovereignty zones of Akrotiri and Dhekelia. This represents the largest permanent deployment of the British Army outside the UK. Around 300 of them are UNFICYP peacekeepers. But the majority of these soldiers are tasked with monitoring and operating RAF Akrotiri, Her Gracious Majesty's last air base in the Mediterranean. The sound of F-35s or Typhoons regularly taking off for missions in the Middle East will remind you of this when you're at the archaeological site of Kourion, on Lady's Mile Beach, or at Akrotiri Salt Lake. You'll also see British soldiers patrolling along the buffer zone. Indeed, the British zone of Dhekelia adjoins the northern part near Famagusta. Here, therefore, it is the UK, not the Republic of Cyprus, that controls the southern entrance to two crossing points. Finally, while walking or skiing near Mount Olympus, at the top of the Troodos, you'll come across a huge white ball. This is a Royal Air Force listening station that monitors all communications in the eastern Mediterranean.
The challenge of real estate assets
Tens of thousands of houses, hotels and plots of land changed hands in 1974. While this is above all a heartbreak for Cypriots and a headache for diplomats, it also poses very real problems for tourists visiting the northern part.
Two different attitudes towards the same problem
On the part of the Republic of Cyprus, financial compensation was quickly allocated to Turkish Cypriot families who had lost their properties, enabling Greek Cypriots or foreigners to settle there legally. As for the religious heritage of the Turkish Cypriot community, although it was sometimes damaged in 1974, particularly in Paphos, it has since undergone major renovation. The largest mosques in the southern part of the island are now open to worship and visitors. In the Turkish-occupied zone, the opposite is true. No compensation has been paid to the expelled Greek Cypriots, while Turkish Cypriot refugees and settlers have taken over their properties. The Republic of Cyprus has been trying in vain for decades to obtain redress from Turkey. In 2014, the European Court of Human Rights ordered Ankara to pay 90 million euros in compensation to some of the expelled Greek Cypriot families. But Turkey's refusal to do so means that many inhabitants and investors in the northern part of the island are illegal under international law. Another concern: the abandoned Orthodox churches. Hundreds have been razed to the ground or left in ruins. Some have been transformed into barns, military depots, Anglican churches for British tourists or, at best, museums. Among the latter, the Museum of the Icons of Morphou, i.e. the Agios Mamas monastery, is exceptionally open for worship once or twice a year for Greek Cypriots.
Illegal hotels in the northern part
As no compensation has been paid by Turkey to the expelled Greek Cypriot owners, much of the land and housing is illegally occupied by the inhabitants of the northern part. In theory, but extremely rarely, the courts of the Republic of Cyprus can prosecute tourists staying in a hotel whose Greek Cypriot owners have been dispossessed, or built on land whose ownership is in dispute. Chapter 154 of the Cyprus Penal Code provides for a penalty of up to 7 years' imprisonment. Around 150 hotels are involved. A list of these can be consulted on the website of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.mfa.gov.cy). In practice, the Republic of Cyprus is threatening to take legal action against tour operators and booking sites offering these hotels. The results are mixed. On the one hand, some French agencies are now opting to stop sending their customers to illegal hotels, such as Kyrenia's huge Acapulco Hotel (1,500 beds), built on land belonging to a Greek Cypriot. The booking site Booking, however, continues to offer, among others, the British Hotel, well placed on Kyrenia's old port, but which was called El Greco Hotel before 1974.
