Discovering villages and the rural world
Cyprus does not have an exemplary "typical" architecture. It has been invaded and conquered over the centuries, but also shaken and destroyed by numerous earthquakes. However, a visit to some of the 600 villages reveals the existence of a traditional habitat. And while 70% of the island's population now lives in cities, the Cypriot government launched programs some twenty years ago to encourage residents to return to their villages and thus counter the rural exodus, as well as to restore traditional houses and turn them into tourist residences. The villages of Cyprus, like Tochni, were built according to the topography of the land and the materials available. The layout of the dwellings follows the movements of the land, rising with the height of the hills and mountains. Life in the communes is organized around the church, and in villages like Lefkara, each neighborhood even has its own monastery. As you walk along the cobbled streets, you'll notice that traditional houses are built from local stone. They are generally enclosed by a wall built from the same stones, a wall that protects the courtyard. When the first floor didn't allow for large living areas, an upper floor was generally built, accessed via an external staircase, made of wood or stone. At the end of the staircase is a balcony protected by wooden railings. It's a living space in its own right in traditional village houses, a place where you can gather and enjoy the fresh air, while being protected from the generous sunshine. In Cyprus, while the coast has seen the rise of numerous seaside resorts designed to welcome travellers and make tourism an important part of the island's economic development, the hinterland is rich in traditional villages, and you shouldn't hesitate to leave the beaches and head inland to reach the little villages of yesteryear, sometimes perched on the top of a hill, like the authentic village of Kalavasos.
Architecture in an urban environment
In an urban environment, it's interesting to see the different influences and evolution of architecture over time. In cities such as Limassol, you can stroll through neighborhoods featuring more recent apartment buildings, or wander into the old town and later stop in front of astonishing castles, such as Limassol Castle and its structure rebuilt in the 16th century during the Ottoman period, or Kolossi Castle, built in the 13th century. In the capital Nicosia, the last divided city in Europe is a special place to stroll: you'll have to go to the district along the line of "separation". In this multi-faceted city, it's worth stopping off at the foot of its main buildings. With the Selimiye mosque right next door, the Bedesten is one of Nicosia's landmarks. This is the former Catholic church of St. Nicholas, built in the late 12th century. At one time transformed into a "closed market" (bezistan in French, bedesten in Turkish) by the Ottomans, its life was eventful. But the building has preserved some of its formidable Gothic architecture, blending a variety of influences. It's a city whose ancient monuments make you want to take an interest in history. The 67-meter-high White Walls tower, designed by French architect Jean Nouvel, is one of the capital's new icons. The White Walls tower comprises ten floors of apartments, six floors of offices and two levels of stores. Its verticality contrasts with the horizontality of the old fortifications. A vertical garden covers almost 80% of the south façade.
In the main cities, it's also worth taking a look at the urban houses to see the notable differences with rural housing. Urban housing emerged at the end of the Ottoman period, when the Cypriot middle class also appeared. Houses were a means of displaying social status. Situated on the roadside in the cities to be clearly visible, they sport a neoclassical and colonial style. The influences are very clearly British, with the presence of a second floor and ornamentation on the façade (columns, balconies, window frames...). Colonial architecture has evolved over time, and its inspiration can be found in the construction of houses that are a little less ornate, but which retain certain aspects of this type of dwelling, notably the presence of a single storey and one or more window balconies. Such is the case of the Kyriazis Medical Museum in Larnaka.
It should also be noted that in the 1950s and 1960s, many Cypriot architecture students who had left the island to study abroad returned and initiated projects that saw the birth of the first high-rise buildings, symbols of modernism. These are the buildings that can be found in the largest cities, such as Nicosia, Limassol and Larnaka. They were home not only to residents, but also to schools and other institutions.
The treasures of Byzantine art
A visit to Cyprus is a wonderful opportunity to explore its deep religious roots. You'll want to follow the paths that lead to its sacred monasteries and churches, a heritage of which its inhabitants are proud. The Troodos Mountains are home to one of the largest concentrations of holy sites in the entire Byzantine Empire. Some ten Byzantine churches in this splendid region of valleys and verdant forests are together inscribed on Unesco's World Heritage List. Nine of them since 1985, the tenth (Metamorfosis tou Sotiros) in 2001. With their modest dimensions, like those of theArchangelos Mihail church, they are reminiscent of large mountain farmhouses: sometimes rough stones, thick walls, imposing roofs, rough wooden frames. But their appearance should not mislead or distract visitors. After all, it's when you step through the doors that you witness a superb spectacle. They house some of the finest murals of their kind in the world. And beyond their beauty, these works tell us about the island's eventful past, from Byzantine to Lusignan, Venetian to Ottoman, struggles for influence, fashions, the evolution of techniques and styles, and more. The church of Panagia Forviotissa (Our Lady of Farvion), also known as Panagia tis Asinou, boasts a complete cycle of Byzantine wall paintings. And to see the best-preserved frescoes, don't miss the doorway to thePanagia Arakiotissa church. The paintings in these unique buildings bear witness to five centuries of art history in Cyprus. They are, in themselves, a life-size history book.
