Practical information : Eating out Vietnam
Timetable
Breakfast, lunch, dinner. As in France, three meals a day, but at different times. Breakfast is often eaten at dawn. In the street, between 6 and 7 a.m., the Vietnamese savor pho, or at home, glutinous rice(soi), accompanied by salt and sesame. Tourist establishments generally offer Western breakfasts. Lunch is served around 11 or 11.30 a.m. Restaurants are generally open until 2pm. In the evening, the Vietnamese dine around 6:30pm (a little later in town). Establishments close relatively early, around 9:30-10pm.
Budget & Tips
Vietnamese gastronomy is rightly renowned for its low-cost flavors. Emblematic dishes such as pho, bun bo (or bo bun) or bun cha make it possible to have lunch or dinner for less than 100,000 VND. In the big cities, gourmet restaurants and those in luxury hotels often offer value-for-money lunch formulas that make them easily accessible.
What costs extra
In high-end restaurants, or in certain establishments in major cities that provide an invoice, prices on menus are exclusive of tax, but the amount of tax (15%) must be mentioned. Tipping is welcome, but not compulsory. In local restaurants, finger wipes in sachets are often charged at 2,000 VND.
The local way
Many Vietnamese frequent com bui (literally "to eat dust", in reference to times of scarcity), which serve simple but mostly delicious cuisine. All served on small tables, balanced on narrow benches or precariously balanced on tiny stools. Etiquette dictates that as soon as you've finished your meal, you should leave to make room for other customers.
The bia hoi also serve good food at low prices; the choice is more varied and dishes are accompanied by one - more often several! - glasses of cold, sweet beer. They are frequented by tables of chatty men and are part of the street scene. Every region has its own specialties and gastronomic delights.
To be avoided
Food safety has become a major concern in the emerging countries of Southeast Asia, and particularly in Vietnam. In Vietnamese cities, the demands of the emerging middle class are increasing as they consume more.
In short, no paranoia. It will spoil your stay and prevent you from enjoying the delights of Vietnamese gastronomy. Simply a little common sense and caution: avoid ordering game, most often illegally hunted in remote regions or even other countries (Laos or Cambodia...), transported and preserved in dubious conditions; always favour freshness, especially with seafood; avoid "gastronomic adventures". Most of the time, kitchens are outdoors, and it's easy to check the quality and freshness of the food you eat. Vigilance without turning into a phobia..
Some sound advice:
Beware of intestinal parasites, especially flukes. They can be found in raw vegetables and freshwater crustaceans (crabs, crayfish, etc.).
Do not eat raw fish served with their scales.
Avoid eating raw crabs and raw fish salads.
Simple hygiene measures (washing hands, eating washed raw vegetables, peeled fruit, etc.) can help prevent intestinal parasites (amoebas, worms, etc.).
And, of course, only drink sealed bottled water, or boiled water (tea, coffee).
The ice served in restaurants does not always comply with hygiene standards as regards transport, but it is generally manufactured by specialized companies, which limits the risks.
Kids
They're always welcome. In restaurants frequented mainly by local customers, it's not uncommon to see children engaged in joyful, disorderly and noisy activities, without parents being bothered. In tourist establishments, booster chairs are often available, and many restaurants even offer menus specially concocted for little ones.
Smokers
In theory, smoking is banned in unventilated public places. In practice, the ban is respected in upmarket establishments, more or less in big cities and tourist restaurants, and not at all in the provinces and rural areas.
Restaurants outside the big cities often provide free tea, tobacco and water pipes.
Tourist traps
Ask for a menu with the price of each dish, so you can order with full knowledge of the facts. Always check the bill meticulously and recount the number of beers... In the case of seafood restaurants, ask about the price of fish, shellfish and crustaceans before eating them.