From feudal castles to the Renaissance: from the useful to the aesthetic
Let's go back in time... to the 12th century. Anglo-Norman feudalism takes hold in Scotland. The first " mottes-and-baileys " are erected. These fortifications built on top of small mounds allowed for the surveillance of the surroundings. From the end of the century and the beginning of the next, more imposing castles took over. They consisted of a keep, a circular stone enclosure and could be surrounded by a moat. Others were built in places where they enjoyed natural protection, such as Dunnottar (south of Aberdeen) which was protected on three sides by a steep cliff overlooking the sea. The 14th century saw the appearance of the fortified house, or tower house: it was taller, with very narrow openings and defensive elements that varied according to the construction. These same elements, some 100 years later, were no longer considered useful and became decorative.
The quest for refinement, aesthetics and culture of the Renaissance is reflected in Scotland's architecture. Royal castles and palaces reflected the ideals of the time. Royalty and nobility alike closely observed what was happening in the rest of Europe, particularly in England, France and Italy. The 17th century marked a new evolution: the fortified houses were modernized. The local lords asserted their importance: they enlarged with wings or additional towers, they played with symmetry, they separated public and private spaces, they widened the windows, they installed a central staircase... Turrets, corbelled chimneys, watchtowers, crenels, machicolations... All these elements lost their warlike vocation and were given another one: to embellish the residence while symbolically connoting the power of the place and its heroic aura. The seigniorial style is at its peak, like Thirlestane Castle (in Lauder, south of Edinburgh) or Crathes Castle (southwest of Aberdeen).
Between classicism and romanticism: each place has its influences
In the 17th and 18th centuries, the manor house, with its classical, symmetrical architecture, took precedence over the fortified house. Architectural fashions followed one another, and different styles coexisted:
The Palladian style: named after the Italian architect Palladio, this style is inspired by the classicism of Italian villas and palaces, with a play of finishes and ashlar juxtapositions on the facades, as well as galleries linking the central building and pavilions. Symmetry, proportion and simplicity are the watchwords of this movement. E.g. Hopetoun House (between Edinburgh and Falkirk), Palace of Holyroodhouse (Edinburgh), Duff House (north coast of Aberdeenshire).
Gothic classicism: neo-Gothic details are added to the symmetrical plan. E.g. Inveraray castle (Argyll & Bute).
Adam style: named after Robert Adam, this style draws its inspiration from Antiquity. It's known as the Adam dynasty. William Adam (1689-1748), the father, brought ancient references to Scotland, then his sons, James (1732-1794) and Robert (1728-1792), the most renowned, took over and deployed this style in Scotland, but also in Europe and across the Atlantic. The Adam style harmoniously blends national tradition and antique design, with an obsession for symmetry. It also pays particular attention to the beauty of the landscape surrounding the castle or palace, which then magnifies the architectural work. E.g. Culzean Castle (Ayrshire coast, south of Ayr), Charlotte Square in Edinburgh, Mellerstain House (Berwickshire).
The seigniorial style: this remained the most common style until the 20th century. In contrast to the classical style, it is characterized by the absence of symmetry on the facades, and by the use of corbels or other offsets to create a play of light and shade. The seigniorial style is based on a romantic vision of feudal Scotland, with exacerbated chivalric values. E.g. Torosay Castle (Isle of Mull),Abbotsford Manor - Walter Scott's home (Borders).
Good ideas for visiting castles
Ruins and fortifications: open-air paintings
In addition to the castles that can be visited and showcased in museums, Scotland has some very fine remains. They can be discovered at the end of a path, on an impromptu detour - this winding road looks beautiful, why don't we follow it? -or on the edge of a cliff. What remains? Scattered fortifications, a tower... Many of these sites are freely accessible. A few examples? The ruins of Sinclair and Girnigoe castle, located on the steep north coast of Wick (Highlands), will give you the impression, in some places, of contemplating a ghost ship... Originally named Girnigoe, it came into the possession of the Sinclair clan who renamed it, but local memory retains both names. Ardvreck Castle, overlooking Loch Assynt, almost seems to float in the blue of the lake. Once the property of the MacLeod clan, it is one of those relics from which ghosts sometimes emerge. One of these is James Graham I, a Scottish nobleman who fought against the convenants during the War of the Three Kingdoms. He sought refuge with the clan, who welcomed him. Alas, the suspected treachery of one of its members led to his imprisonment and hanging. Since then, he's been wandering around as a man in gray. Legend has it that the MacLeods made a pact with the devil to build their castle, and that a little girl was given to him as a gift. To escape her fate, she threw herself into the lake from the top of the highest tower. Drowned, she would forever haunt the fort and its surroundings. Two castles, three stories... Tantallon Castle (East Lothian), the ruins of the royal castle of Tarbert (Argyll) or the superb Varrich Castle (visible from the NC 500, near Tongue)... Impossible to be exhaustive on this subject! Indeed, if Scotland once boasted over 3,000 castles, the list of sites where you can catch a glimpse of their remains could well be very long indeed.
Passes to several historic sites
If you make your stay in Scotland the occasion for a historical trip, you'll soon realize that the budget for visiting castles rises very quickly. The best solution is to buy a multi-site pass. There are several available, grouping different sites together by geographical area and/or duration of validity. To visit the whole of Scotland, you can choose between the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass or the Scottish Heritage Pass. Some regions, such as the Borders or Dumfries & Galloway, have also introduced this global ticket system.
If you make up your mind on the spot, after visiting your first castle, there's nothing to lose: you'll often be offered the chance to " upgrade" your ticket. Depending on the location, this may work for passes or for twinned sites.
Lunch or afternoon tea at a château
The vast majority of castles, palaces, houses, historic sites and museums offer cafés (tea rooms, snack bars for lunch) that are freely accessible, with no admission fee to the castle. You may still have to pay for parking (between £1 for 1 hour and £4 for a day). Their "cafés" are set up in a room of the castle - often the kitchens, stables or staff quarters - decorated and furnished in the spirit of the place. Menus are simple, mostly featuring fresh produce prepared as soups of the day or sandwiches served on a plate with a salad and a few chips. Coffees in all their variations, teas, chocolates and generous cakes in creams and sponge cakes are perfect for a gourmet break, in unusual settings with a skilfully crafted old-fashioned charm.
The château is almost always complemented by landscaped grounds. Each site has its own garden or park. They are as colorful and abundant as they are pleasant. Whether you're a topiary enthusiast or not, the magic happens... and a new visit begins!
