From feudal castles to the Renaissance: from the useful to the aesthetic
Let's go back in time... to the 12th century. Anglo-Norman feudalism takes hold in Scotland. The first " mottes-and-baileys " are erected. These fortifications built on top of small mounds allowed for the surveillance of the surroundings. From the end of the century and the beginning of the next, more imposing castles took over. They consisted of a keep, a circular stone enclosure and could be surrounded by a moat. Others were built in places where they enjoyed natural protection, such as Dunnottar (south of Aberdeen) which was protected on three sides by a steep cliff overlooking the sea. The 14th century saw the appearance of the fortified house, or tower house: it was taller, with very narrow openings and defensive elements that varied according to the construction. These same elements, some 100 years later, were no longer considered useful and became decorative.
The quest for refinement, aesthetics and culture of the Renaissance is reflected in Scotland's architecture. Royal castles and palaces reflected the ideals of the time. Royalty and nobility alike closely observed what was happening in the rest of Europe, particularly in England, France and Italy. The 17th century marked a new evolution: the fortified houses were modernized. The local lords asserted their importance: they enlarged with wings or additional towers, they played with symmetry, they separated public and private spaces, they widened the windows, they installed a central staircase... Turrets, corbelled chimneys, watchtowers, crenels, machicolations... All these elements lost their warlike vocation and were given another one: to embellish the residence while symbolically connoting the power of the place and its heroic aura. The seigniorial style is at its peak, like Thirlestane Castle (in Lauder, south of Edinburgh) or Crathes Castle (southwest of Aberdeen).
Between classicism and romanticism: each place has its influences
In the 17th and 18th centuries, the manor house, with its classical and symmetrical architecture, took precedence over the fortified house. Architectural fashions followed one another and different styles coexisted:
The Palladian style: named after the Italian architect Palladio, it is inspired by the classicism of Italian villas and palaces, with the play of finishes and juxtapositions of ashlars on the facade, as well as galleries linking the central building and pavilions. Symmetry, proportion and simplicity are the key words of this movement. E.g.: Hopetoun House (between Edinburgh and Falkirk), Holyroodhouse Palace (Edinburgh), Duff House (north coast of Aberdeenshire).
Gothic classicism: to the symmetrical plan are added neo-Gothic details. E.g.: Inveraray castle (Argyll & Bute).
The Adam style: named after Robert Adam, this style draws its inspiration from Antiquity. We speak of the Adam dynasty. William Adam (1689-1748), the father, brought ancient references to Scotland, then his sons, James (1732-1794) and Robert (1728-1792), the most renowned, took over and deployed this style in Scotland, but also in Europe and across the Atlantic. The Adam style harmoniously blends national tradition and antique design, with an obsession for symmetry. It is also particularly attached to the beauty of the landscape surrounding the castle or palace, which then magnifies the architectural work. E.g.: Culzean castle (Ayrshire coast, south of Ayr), Charlotte square in Edinburgh, Mellerstain House (Berwickshire).
The seigniorial style: it remains the most represented until the 20th century. In contrast to the classical style, it is characterized by the absence of symmetry of the facades, and the corbels or other offsets generating plays of light and shadow. The seigniorial style is based on a romantic vision of feudal Scotland, with exacerbated chivalric values. E.g.: Torosay castle (Isle of Mull),Abbotsford manor - Walter Scott's home (in the Borders).
Good ideas for visiting castles
Ruins and fortifications: open-air paintings
In addition to the castles that can be visited and that benefit from a museographic presentation, Scotland offers very beautiful vestiges. They can be discovered at the end of a road, during an improvised detour - this winding road seems beautiful, what if we followed it? -, at the edge of a cliff. What remains? Scattered fortifications, a tower... Numerous sites are freely accessible and often free. Some examples ? The ruins of the Sinclair and Girnigoe castle, located on the steep coast of the north of Wick (Highlands), will give you the impression, in some places, to contemplate a ghost ship... First named Girnigoe, it became the possession of the Sinclair clan which renamed it, but the local memory kept both names. Ardvreck Castle, overlooking Loch Assynt, almost seems to float in the blue of the lake. Once the property of the MacLeod clan, it is one of the vestiges from which ghosts sometimes appear. One of these ghosts is James Graham I, a Scottish nobleman who fought against the Conventuals during the War of the Three Kingdoms. He would have sought refuge with the clan, which would have welcomed him. Alas, the suspected treason of one of the members led him to prison and to be hanged. Since then, he has been wandering around in the form of a man in grey. And he would not be the only ghost around, for a little girl would also appear from time to time... Legend has it that the MacLeods made a deal with the devil to build their castle and that a little girl was given to him. To escape her fate, she threw herself into the lake from the top of the highest tower. Drowned, she would forever haunt the fort and its surroundings. Two castles, three stories... Let's also mention Tantallon Castle (East Lothian), the ruins of the royal castle of Tarbert (Argyll) or the superb Varrich Castle (which can be seen from the NC 500, at the level of Tongue)... Impossible to think of exhaustiveness on this subject! Indeed, if Scotland once counted more than 3,000 castles, the list of sites where you can see the remains could be very long.
Passes to visit several historical sites
If you make your stay in Scotland a historical trip, you will quickly realize that the budget for visiting castles goes up very quickly. The best way to do this is to buy a multi-site pass. There are several of them, grouping together different sites, by geographical area and/or by duration of validity. To visit all of Scotland, you can choose between the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass or the Scottish Heritage Pass. Some regions, such as the Borders or Dumfries & Galloway, have also implemented this global ticket system.
If you decide on the spot, after visiting a first castle, nothing is lost: you will often be offered to " upgrade " your ticket. This can work, depending on the place, for passes or for twinned sites.
Lunch or afternoon tea at the castle
The vast majority of castles, palaces, houses, historical sites and museums offer cafés (tea rooms, small restaurants for lunch) that are freely accessible, without entrance fees. You may still have to pay for parking (between £1 for 1 hour and £4 for a day). Their "cafés" are set up in a room of the castle - often the kitchens, the stables or the parts where the staff used to work - decorated and arranged in the spirit of the place. The menus are simple, with most of the time fresh products prepared in soups of the day or sandwiches served on a plate with a salad and some chips. Coffees with all their variations, teas, chocolates and generous cakes in creams and sponge cakes are perfect for a gourmet break, in unusual decorations with an old-fashioned charm skillfully worked.
The castle is almost always accompanied by a landscaped area. Each site has its own garden or park. They are spaces of walk as colorful and abundant as pleasant. Whether you are a topiary art enthusiast or not, the magic works... and a new visit begins!
