All the inhabitants ofUmbria say it: we have nothing to envy to Tuscany. Although the Renaissance was not born in Perugia, but in Florence, it must be said that this landlocked territory has many cards to play for an excellent stay. The quality of the services offered in terms of tourism is on the whole superior and often at more interesting prices. Today's Umbria offers a striking marriage between the tradition of the land and the richness of its villages
Perugia and Northern Umbria, a natural and cultural jewel
The quietness that suits it so well makes it a destination to be favoured by all those who wish to know the meaning of the word rest. In the heart of Italy and recognized as its green lung, Umbria has always been a stopover for the armies that have stirred history. The latter has shaped a plethora of villages, protected by ramparts and other medieval walls, on the slopes of the Apennine massif. Although time has largely taken its toll on them, their remains give the region its own charm. Each commune has its own surprises.
A trip to Umbria often begins with the region's capital, Perugia. Architecturally and culturally, the Italian city crushes the competition in Umbria. Built on the irregularly shaped hills, it preserves its treasures in its historic centre, a fascinating meeting point between the rural and urban worlds. Very international and very dynamic thanks to its universities (the oldest of which dates back to the 13th century) and the many students who animate it, Perugia remains one of the most pleasant cities to visit, far from the sometimes unpleasant agitation of Pisa or Florence. The city has always enjoyed a flattering reputation, no doubt justified by the impression of power and mystery created by the enormous square blocks of the Etruscan walls, 22 centuries old, behind which lie five distinct historical quarters. Thus structured, for much longer than Rome, with its 7 gates, including the imposing Pulchra or Augustus gate, Perugia prides itself on its past and its distinction. But if the city hides many architectural treasures, it is also good to take advantage of its many festivals and the lively activity of its evenings as soon as the students return after the summer.
Then, to get off the beaten track, we quickly head for the charming Gubbio, at the very top of Umbria on the map. Much less crowded than Perugia, the town is worth a stopover as it is the quintessential medieval Umbrian city. Gubbio is not rich in works of art, but it is worthwhile for the uniqueness of its architectural ensemble, the good state of conservation of the houses and the delicate provincial atmosphere that reigns there. Its history is particularly ancient and is intertwined with that of the oldest populations of Umbria. With its ochre-coloured buildings, towers and palaces set on the slopes of Mount Ugino, the city presents contrasting aspects. The structure of the buildings is mainly Romanesque, with ogival arches, typical of the city. The urban landscape is dominated by the mighty mole of the Palazzo dei Consoli, the symbol of medieval Gubbio. It is one of the most beautiful public palaces in Italy. Gubbio is therefore well worth a visit, whether you are in Umbria for a few days or longer. Tuesday could be one of those days, with the market taking over the town
Finally, there is another jewel of the region, Lake Trasimeno. Whether in Castiglione del Lago or Tuoro, the shallow Lake Trasimeno is Umbria's mystery card. The contours of the islands Maggiore, Minore and Polvese form the gentle horizon that serves as a backdrop to the ancient villages and fishing towns. Often it is just a few houses perched on a rock overlooking the lake. Elsewhere, it is cultivated countryside, old farms and beautiful side roads that cross valleys and woods, stretches of olive trees and fields of wheat. A slow wander around the lake is recommended, around and beyond, where, guided by instinct, authentic discoveries are to be expected.
In the south, visits and pilgrimage to Assisi
Then it's time to head south of the region. With its lush nature, graceful landscapes and rich cities of art that are still intact today, this part of Umbria has much to offer. Particularly prosperous in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, it attracted great artists; thus Assisi and Orvieto preserve works by Fra Angelico, Simone Martini, Cimabue and Giotto. But this land is especially marked by the great personality of St. Francis of Assisi
In Umbria, Assisi is therefore an unavoidable stopover, endowed with an exceptional architectural and historical heritage. A visit to this Italian city is essential to understand the impact of the Papacy on the region and to discover Giotto's frescoes in the basilica. It is difficult not to leave Assisi fulfilled, even when the wait is long. For the city has retained a profoundly medieval aspect in its buildings and its urban fabric. The overall plan of the Roman city was almost entirely revised during the reconstruction of the Middle Ages. A fascinating succession of terraces punctuates the climb to the top of the hill where the city stands. A very impressive defensive structure marks the ancient heart of the city, which can be accessed through eight fortified gates and which allow you to discover two palaces: the Rocca Maggiore, rebuilt in 1367, and the Rocca Minore. Thousands of pilgrims and tourists visit the city every year to get closer to the revelation of St. Francis and they all discover religious buildings dedicated to other saints.
You should also go and have a look at Orvieto. Less touristy than its neighbours, the city has kept its authentic charm and its cathedral is worth a visit. As if perched on a tufa spur, it is one of the most beautiful cities in Italy! Orvieto appears to the traveller in all its majesty, dominating a landscape of vineyards as far as the eye can see. You should not go to the city by car, but enjoy the ascent by funicular. Every corner is full of treasures: incomparable frescoes by Luca Signorelli, Etruscan remains, alleys and caves... you can only be amazed!
Good restaurants in perspective
Southern Umbria is therefore ideal for a cultural trip, but also for a gourmet one, as the "green heart of Italy" is rich in tasty local cuisine and produces excellent wines. In fact, to take advantage of this, head for Valnerina. Situated in the south-east of Umbria, this area is home to gastronomic treasures that are recognised throughout the world, with its truffles, cheeses, cold cuts and the unique taste of its oils. Norcia is the focal point of the area, in the heart of the lush countryside. Still off the main tourist trails, Valnerina is an excellent choice for a taste of Umbrian tranquillity, even in August. Its 15,000 inhabitants can be proud of the health of their land, its flavours and its hospitality.
Useful information
When to visit It is advisable to visit Umbria in spring and late summer: the most pleasant months are April, May, June and September. Autumn is quite rainy and in winter it is not uncommon for it to snow. The high summer is not recommended for people who have difficulty with the heat.
Getting there. Everything is possible (plane, car, train, bus), even if the easiest way is by plane (Florence or Pisa airports)
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