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Restaurant offering French cuisine with a slight Mediterranean accent.
The particularity of less and less common in our capital: Taillevent is part, like the Argent Tower, of these large restaurants belonging to a family, yesterday the Vrinat, today the Gardinier. The place, the ancient Mansion of the Duke of Morny, is simply sumptuous. As for the kitchen, under the direction of Alain Soliveres since 2002, it perpetuates a certain idea, traditional, of high French cuisine, tinted on the occasion of a small Mediterranean accent. Tartar of dill sauce sauce, lemon fat duck, duck gras duck of Saint-Estèphe wine, yellow sand line, nori algae, oysters and lettuce, Tournedos beef Tournedos, Rotisserie chicken À, Rotisserie chicken or even sweet calf nuts: The gastronomy version Taillevent will therefore be consensual and bourgeois, offering in this way a faithful mirror of the clientele. The taste of the day will be found on the side of the. It is difficult not to mention the service: it perpetuates in the same way a tradition, so to speak, lost in the large independent restaurants in Paris, with no fewer than fifteen cooks, five pastry pastry workers and especially seventeen hotel masters. Taillevent offers a certain elite a reassuring mirror, and the feeling, necessarily truncated, that nothing changes.
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Members' reviews on TAILLEVENT
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The establishment renewed.
Le Taillevent is an institution, even its wine list is legendary. When you set foot there, passing the voiturier, you set foot in a just renewed two stars establishment. Honestly, you have to enjoy the ceremonial. First, they ll take care of your coats, then you’ll be escorted through the hallway, then through first room, and finally to the main dinner room, greeted all the way long by members of the staff. This is pure classism. Yet, classism wouldn’t feel right if it felt old and out of fashion. Here, the place has been renovated is a very elegant manner, stressing the classism but removing the unnecessary ornements from past to add designed elements. For those who reads my reviews, it’s very similar to the « trente trois ». Beautifully integrated. And if you add the perfectly balanced Michelin star service (close, warm and yet distant enough), you feel exactly what you should : You have all the Michelin multistars code within a contemporary setting.
The question is: does the cuisine match the place? Yes. Just like La Tour d Argent or Lucas Carton, the task is daunting. But the chef manages the same balance the designer or the brigade de salle did: Classism with a dash of contemporary. So dishes are revisited, just the way they should ever be.
The crowd was a mix of business, couples and friends enjoying a great meal. The mood is very classic and upscale. Gentlemen do not need to wear a suit anymore, but I did think that the atmosphere calls for it.
It’s a solid 2 stars, I had a great experience.
Update 2022: Went back after a year. It’s called an institution because it’s stable. And it is. What I may have not praised enough in my previous review was the quality of the wine list, but the rest was as good as the first time. Don’t get me wrong, I did not have the same dishes. The chef does change the menu. Actually, you can compare the menu I took last year to the one this year. There’s movement, but as the famous quote says “Everything has to change so that nothing changes”. Those changes guarantee you that Taillevent will stay Taillevent.
Having said that I did prefer this time.
Definitely a very solid two stars