Only 55 minutes by TGV from Paris, there is a city where you often pass by, but where you don't stop much. When we quote it, we usually think of the 24 Hours or its famous rillettes. But Le Mans has a lot to offer and deserves to be more than just a name on the road to Rennes. A city on a human scale, it is an ideal destination for a family weekend. And there is no shortage of activities to satisfy visitors.
A city of art and history
We tend to forget it, but Le Mans has a magnificent medieval centre, the Plantagenêt city, whose cobbled streets are full of history. Henri II, his wife Eleanor of Aquitaine and their son, Richard the Lionheart, are all historical figures whose half-timbered houses, Renaissance hotels and the county palace still bear witness to. Witness to the great events of this dynasty, Saint-Julien Cathedral overlooks the historic districts. Built between the 11th and 15th centuries, it is a magnificent mixture of styles with its Romanesque nave and Gothic parts. Inside, the restoration work carried out over the years has borne fruit. The terracotta statues of the 17th and 18th centuries are gradually recovering their former polychrome colour and the wall paintings are recovering their brilliance. The centrepiece is undoubtedly in the Chapel of the Virgin Mary, whose vault is entirely painted with a celestial choir. Forty-seven angel musicians are represented, playing instruments whose music can only be imagined.
But the history of the city does not begin in the Middle Ages and Le Mans takes us back in time to the 3rd century. Thus, the wall surrounding the old city stands as a symbol of the past greatness of the Roman Empire. The know-how of the builders is reflected in the series of very well preserved geometric patterns that adorn the defensive wall. A nomination has been submitted to inscribe the wall on UNESCO's World Heritage List. To get a panoramic view of the city's history from prehistoric times to the 15th century, a stop at the Carré Plantagenêt museum is essential. It will feature masterpieces such as the Cenoman monetary treasure from the Gallic period and the Plantagenet enamel from the Middle Ages. The floors of the museum offer a magnificent view of the old town and the cathedral.
A city surrounded by a green setting
At the gates of the city, a small paradise, the Ark of Nature, can be reached by tram. With its four hundred and fifty hectares, it is a real bubble of fresh air. At the Maison de l'eau, three aquariums provide an opportunity to learn more about the region's aquatic ecosystem. As for the Maison de la forêt, it allows you to discover the way of life of the many species that inhabit our woods, while the Maison de la prairie protects rare breeds of farm animals in the region. You can see the white pig from the West, the goat from the ditches or the hen from Le Mans. To prolong this green escape, many trails will take hikers to the forests and groves or to the banks of the Huisne. Fun routes have been designed, with several orienteering races and a circuit featuring a selection of 32 species of trees remarkable for their size, shape or longevity. And for those who are reluctant to walk, cycling, canoeing or horse riding are just some of the means of transport that you can use in the surrounding countryside. Finally, throughout the year, activities are organized to allow small city dwellers to immerse themselves in agricultural life. On the agenda this fall is the Forest and Hiking Festival on October 22nd, with many surprises planned, such as a wolves and raptors show and the opening of a mobile sawmill. On November 5, the apple will be celebrated and apprentice farmers will be able to discover stills and ciders before biting into reindeer with their teeth. Not far from there, the Abbaye de l'Épau has become an essential cultural place, within a space marked by calm and serenity. Built in 1229 at the request of Bérengère de Navarre, widow of Richard the Lionheart, the abbey is an unusual exhibition space. Renewed twice a year, the installations can be found in the church, the abbot's dwelling and the large park surrounding the buildings. In April, the monks' dormitory also hosts concerts of the Europa Jazz Festival. A place full of surprises, where all you have to do is return to enjoy its charm.
Festivities all year round
The Le Mans 24 Hours, a car race created in 1923 and now one of the most important in the world, is no longer presented. Whether you are a circuit specialist or a complete car novice, the 24 Hours Museum is a must see to immerse yourself in the incredible genesis of this emblematic event in the Sarthe. Taking place in June, the race is held throughout the year. In October, we find the 24 Hours Truck, in April the 24 Hours Motorcycle and in August the 24 Hours Bike. But the event in Le Mans is not only created on the circuit. For ten years now, the secret gardens of the Plantagenêt city have been open to the public for a weekend (this year on September 30 and October 1). In the courtyard of the private mansions and houses that line the cobbled streets of the old city, plant creations capture the visitor. Florists, horticulturalists, nurserymen and artists of all kinds imagine a sensory journey, from colourful sculptures in reinvented vines, to stairs decorated with floral decorations, before ending up in a closed area overrun with terracotta poppies. Many activities are organised, such as concerts, plays and conferences
Another event not to be missed is the Nuit des Chimères. Thus, since 2005, strange creatures have taken possession of the city and performed in a supernatural show every evening in July and August, at nightfall, on the walls of the Cité Plantagenêt. This journey of visual and sound creations has once again fulfilled its promise by transporting us into a magical world. On the programme are seven projections scattered throughout the city that retrace its history, from the Roman period to the Middle Ages. The most impressive is probably the painting projected on the cathedral. Entitled Angels and Demons, forests, rosettes and fabulous creatures follow one another, magnifying the architecture of the building. Throughout the route, lanterns project gargoyles and demons onto the ground, punctuating the visitor's steps. And for those who missed it this summer, the event returns in December with a new creation on the royal porch of the newly restored Saint-Julien Cathedral.
A gastronomy that is not to be outdone
All these events are a good excuse to celebrate. And it would be an insult to local producers to reduce Le Mans to rillette. Indeed, the region also produces delicious cheeses, honey, cider and farm chickens, among other things. As for wine, the Jasnières is a must. A fairly dry white wine, it sometimes has a characteristic rifle stone taste. And for red lovers, we can look at the pineau d'Aunis, an ancestral grape variety with very particular peppery notes. To fill up with food before leaving, you will have to go to the unmissable Jacobin Market on a Wednesday, Friday or Sunday morning. Established in 1969, during the restructuring of the Place de la République, he eventually took up permanent residence there. Today it is the largest and most popular market in the city. There is everything there and there is no shortage of local producers. No risk of leaving empty-handed.
Smart info
When? When? Le Pays du Mans is open all year round, although the summer season is best for its advantageous temperatures. You can organize your visit according to the festivities, such as Entre cours et jardins on September 30 and October 1, the Bebop n'roll music festival in November, the Europa Jazz Festival in April, the 24 Heures du Mans in June, or the Nuit des Chimères all summer and at Christmas.
Getting there. By car, take the A11 from Paris, Angers and Nantes, the A28 from Rouen, Caen, Lyon, Tours and Bordeaux and the A81 from Rennes. By train, TGV from Paris-Montparnasse (18 connections per day) and many other major cities in France
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