ALHAMBRA

Yes, the Alhambra is a must-see, as it dominates the city, perched on a high hill. It is reached via the Gate of Justice, after climbing up the cuesta de Gomérez. More than just a palace, it's a city surrounded by walls, with a fortress, royal apartments, barracks, gardens and more. It was built in the 9th^century as a simple fortress, and its name derives from the Arabic al-hamra, "the red one", because of the red clay used in its construction. When the Nasrid dynasty settled in Granada in 1238, Muhammad al-Ahmar decided to leave the Albaicín and live inside the fortress, which he considered safer. Yusuf ^I then had the Comares Palace built. Muhammad V designed the Patio de los Leónes and its surrounding buildings. After the Reconquest, Charles V had part of the palace demolished to build his own, as well as a church. The Alhambra fell into neglect and deterioration. Its restoration was not undertaken until the late 19th^century .

Please note! With over 2.6 million visitors a year, the Alhambra is the fourth most visited monument in Spain. For some years now, access has been limited to a certain number of people per day. It's therefore imperative to book your tickets in advance, as far in advance as possible, and especially if you're visiting Granada during a festival or on vacation. Since October¹, 2017, an online sales system has been in place, and this is now the only way to make a reservation. Your entry will be marked with your access time to the Nasrid Palaces. On site, you can download additional information to your cell phone via Bluetooth. You can still get in at the ticket office, but be warned that it's very adventurous, as all the seats are likely to be taken. Pets are not allowed, and backpacks and strollers must be left at the cloakroom.

Alcazaba (XIII^e century). Like the vermeil towers, torres bermejas, this is the oldest part of the Alhambra. Its construction was ordered and completed by Muhammad I, founder of the Nazarí dynasty. To reinforce control and surveillance of the city, the existing castle was fortified and supplemented by three new defensive towers: the "torre quebrada" (split tower), the "torre del homenaje" (keep) and the "torre de la vela" (watch tower), making it a veritable fortress. Long abandoned, restoration work only began in the late ^19th and early ^20th centuries. The visit is accessed via the Plaza de los Aljibes, which leads to the Plaça d'Armes. Soldiers' houses and barracks once stood here, but now only traces of the rooms can be seen, demarcated by small walls. To the left, you'll see the Adarves garden with its cypress trees, flowers and numerous fountains, where the painter Fortuny used to spend his afternoons. The upper part of the Torre de las Armas offers a splendid view of the city of Granada, as well as the peaks of the Sierra Nevada.

Nasrid Palace. The tour begins at the Mexuar (pronounced "mechouar"). All judicial matters were debated here. This is the part of the palace most altered by the arrival of the Christians. The Mexuar hall, converted into a chapel in 1629, is a mixture of styles. Crossing the Patio del Mexuar, on the left you'll see the Cuarto Dorado (or Golden Room) and, on the right, one of the prettiest façades of the Palacio de Comares. This palace surrounds the Patio de los Arrayanes (or Courtyard of the Myrtles), one of the jewels of the Alhambra. To the right, at the entrance, stands the palace of Charles V and, to the left, the Comares Tower, the tallest in the Alhambra (45 m). Before entering the tower, you pass through the Hall of the Barca (from the Arabic baraka, "luck"). The ceiling, destroyed by fire in 1890, has been faithfully restored in cedar wood. This was the antechamber to the Salon des Ambassadeurs, where foreign envoys were received. The walls, nearly 20 m high, are covered with decorations and inscriptions.

We then move on to the patio de los Leónes (courtyard of the Lions), which was the center of the area reserved for family life. Exactly 124 columns, open like palm trees, decorate the patio. It is said to represent Paradise, bathed by four rivers. The twelve lions, which were moved to a separate room in 2007 as the hydraulic system feeding them was being restored, are said to symbolize the signs of the Zodiac. On the right, as you enter, you'll find the Sala de los Abencerrajes.

Opposite, the sala de las Dos Hermanas (Room of the Two Sisters) owes its name to the marble slabs surrounding the fountain. It was probably inhabited by the sultana, her official wives and their children.

To get to the Generalife, cross the Partal gardens, once occupied by the houses of the palace's soldiers and servants. If you follow the towers of the wall, you'll notice the torre de la Cautiva (tower of the captive), in which Isabella de Solis was imprisoned, a Christian woman with whom Muley Hacen, Boabdil's father, fell in love. The torre del Agua (Water Tower) was the entrance to the aqueduct that supplied the gardens. It was through the torre de los Siete Suelos (tower of the Seven Soils) that Boabdil left the Alhambra for the last time. In accordance with his wishes, the gate was condemned, and no one has entered since.

The Generalife. This superb space occupies Sun Hill, from where you can admire the whole of Granada and the Genil and Darro valleys. Although it was built around the middle of the ^13th century, there are several interpretations of the meaning of its name, which comes from the Arabic yannat al-arif, "garden of the architect", "of the steward", "of the master builder" or "vegetable garden of the Zambrero". It was the country residence of the Nasrid kings, and also served as a farm and orchard. In 1319, the tower-mirador on the Darro was added. Philip III commissioned the construction of the Cypress Gallery. Today, it comprises two sets of buildings interconnected by the Patio de la Acequia. With its fountains and flowerbeds, this is a marvel of its kind. At the time of its creation, this area was located outside the Alhambra enclosure, and could only be accessed from the city via the paseo de los trites and the cuesta de los chinos. The stroll takes you through a series of gardens whose most astonishing feature is the interplay of water, light and plants. To stroll through the Generalife is to travel through the entire history of gardens, from medieval times to the present day, since the site comprises 2.5 hectares of gardens, 4 of orchards and 3 of wooded areas, and requires some 1,700,000 liters of water a day in summer to maintain. It can be visited in any season, but it is of course at its best in spring. And it's easy to understand why King Boabdil wept when he left behind such a marvel.

Timing. The entry time you are given corresponds to the entrance to the Nazari Palace. After that, you're free to proceed at your own pace. The recommended time is three hours, but at less than four hours, you'll have to go at a run. It's the Nazari Palace that's taken by storm. We advise you to let the horde of trigger-happy visitors pass you by (about a quarter of an hour), so that you can continue your visit in peace.

Cooling off. If you're coming on a hot day, there's no need to carry liters of water that will be hot in a quarter of an hour. Small bottles are sold at the entrance, and there are drinking water fountains to refill them. In particular, there's a watering hole near the Alcazaba, with a chirringuito where you can have a coffee and a snack while admiring the view.

Shoes. You'll need good walking shoes, especially if you want to walk back down to the center. A nice walk, recommended as a continuation of the Generalife.