CALLEJÓN DE HAMEL

This dead-end street in a working-class neighborhood is entirely dedicated to Afro-Cuban culture (murals, including one by artist Salvador Escalona, and sculptures inspired by santería and Palo Monte). It is a space where you can enjoy all the variations of the rumba. Every Sunday from noon, it is rumba en el cayo, as much as to say the traditional rumba, the real one of true! It starts calmly, with professional groups, then, it heats up quickly as the bottles of rum are emptied. The rumberos of all Cayo Hueso (that's how we call this part of Havana) come here to confront their dancing talents. Very popular and authentic, even if the information is far from being confidential today and many tourists come to attend the show. The nave del olvido (bathtub nave) rules the place and evokes the spirit of the creation of the Callejón. A central dome protects the musicians from the sun. In front of it, there is a room full of objects related to the santería and other Afro-Cuban cults, which is hosted by a fortune teller!

By the way, if you are interested in Santería and Afro-Cuban spirituality, you will find in Elias an exceptional interlocutor. The young man, colorful and joking, is a fine connoisseur of the subject. He will be happy to take you to the nooks and crannies of the place, from the art gallery to the altars, and will explain to you (in Spanish) what it is all about. We like it.