VISIT OF THE ABERDARES

If you're a nature lover, this is the place for you. The Aberdares National Park offers visitors an atypical atmosphere. Situated in the heart of one of Kenya's highest forested massifs (the summit rises to 4,000 m), it abounds in verdant landscapes of valleys, dense forests, rivers and sublime waterfalls. It's impossible to get bored of the variety and possibilities. As long as you're well equipped (it can be cold and wet, so bring a sweater and protection from head to toe), the hikes are well worth the effort. As for game drives, it's possible to encounter many wild animals (elephants, buffalo, monkeys, antelopes, warthogs, leopards...), as well as numerous bird species.

In fact, the park can be divided into three distinct parts: the little-visited north; the south, with its impressive waterfalls; and the east, with the small area known as Salient. There are also other hiking opportunities within the park. Ask at Park Headquarters or at the Kenya Mountain Club in Nairobi, as you should always be accompanied by an armed ranger when hiking in the park, especially in the wooded areas where you may come across buffalo or elephants.
The trails that criss-cross the park were laid out by British troops during the Mau-Mau revolt in the 1950s. It was in this region of the Aberdares forests that the famous Kikuyu fighters hid. Today, this highly agricultural region has one of the highest birth rates in the country. Population growth inevitably puts pressure on the park, with deforestation taking on worrying proportions in and around the massif.

The northern part of the park. This part of the park is more difficult to access, as the trails are not always in the best condition. You'll be travelling at high altitudes (over 3,000 m) through some very beautiful scenery, but unfortunately the animals are few and far between and particularly difficult to observe. It's best to visit the rest of the park first, unless you want to climb the highest point in the Aberdares: Ol Doinyo Lesatima (4,000 m). It's an absolutely exceptional walk, yet one that's within everyone's reach. In fact, it's possible to climb quite high up in a 4x4 vehicle, and then continue on to several successive peaks, culminating in the fourth, Lesatima itself. The walk takes just under 2 hours. At this altitude, it is no longer possible to encounter potentially dangerous animals, so the presence of a ranger is not useful, unless you're worried about not finding your way, even with a map.

South and Central. These areas are made up of dense forest and, above 3,000 m, undulating moorland with several small streams. Elephants can be easily spotted here and, with a bit of luck, you may come across a leopard or a black serval on the moor around the Fishing Lodge. The big attraction in this part of the park is the numerous waterfalls. Although less spectacular, the Chania Falls are perhaps the prettiest, and make for a pleasant few-minute stroll. A path leads to the foot of the waterfall. Beware: the final section is quite steep and can be slippery. The brave can take a dip in the 12°C water. If you enter via Ruhuruini Gate, the falls are at the edge of the track, a few kilometers before the Fishing Lodge. Just before a small bridge, there's a grassy area on the left where you can park your vehicle next to an ominous sign reading: "Beware of lions while walking". Rest assured, no one has been eaten yet.

At the southern end of the park, you can admire the impressive Karuru and Gura Falls (each almost 300 m high). A small trail has also been laid out, along with footbridges and wooden terraces, so you can enjoy a variety of viewpoints. In fine weather, the site is absolutely stunning. In bad weather, the fog and lichen hanging from the branches lend the site a certain magic.

The east, or "Salient". This small part of the park, called Salient, is made up of dense forest dotted with pretty clearings, where you can observe a huge number of animals. Theoretically, this area is reserved for guests of The Ark and Treetops lodges. However, if you want to do things by the book, you can visit the area after obtaining permission from Park Headquarters near Mweiga. In this case, you should also ask for a guide, as this is by far the best way to discover all Salient has to offer. Alternatively, those who wish to do so can go directly to the site and explore the area - their presence is unlikely to alert anyone. A good guide (they're usually all good guides) will, however, enable you to spot elephants, buffalo, colobus monkeys and, with a bit of luck, rhinoceros, lions and bongos. You're sure to see a lot of animals and learn a lot of interesting things about wildlife. If you're on your own, you're likely to go for hours without seeing anything, and get lost in a veritable maze of tracks, which can have its charm too.