PALACE KLUNGKUNG

On the main crossroads of the city (statue), the remains of the Semarapura Palace are enthroned. Built in 1710 by Dewa Agung, " Dewa Agung" being the title given to the kings of Klungkung. Dewa means "God" and Agung "elevated", it can be literally translated as "Great God". At the time, the kingdom of Klungkung was considered the highest and most important of the nine kingdoms of Bali. The Dewa Agung of Klungkung obviously claim the highest place in the Balinese family tree.

Often referred to as Taman Gili or "the garden of islands," the area includes gardens, courtyards and pavilions. The ticket entitles the visitor to visit two pavilions and the museum. The visit is worthwhile, for its architectural finesse and the unique atmosphere that reigns in this small historic provincial town. Built at the end of the 17th century, it was partly destroyed during the Dutch conquest in 1908. The kingdom of Klungkung, being the last, resisted.

The palace of Klungkung deserves a detour and a visit, if only for its magnificent painted ceilings. One discovers in particular according to the judgement made the access to the paradise or the hell. In their role as bearers of traditional values, Balinese artists were for centuries protected by the courts of the kingdoms. The result is tangible in gria, brahmin houses, temples and palaces. The most famous are those painted on the ceiling of the Kertagosa in Klungkung, which was the court of justice of the kingdom. The craftsmen were from the village of Kamasan. And their inspiration was drawn from the wayang (shadow theater, traditional show) and the epics of the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. They were also known for the famous Balinese calendars.

Bale Kambang. This beautiful open pavilion is undoubtedly one of the masterpieces of Balinese architecture, like the Kerta Gosa (the courthouse). The proportions and measurements from the body had been respected and gave the building a sense of unity and lightness reinforced by the "floating" character of the construction. Indeed, the pavilion is built on a large base and its structure is surrounded by the water of the moat covered with lotus and inhabited by carp. The ceiling, made of wooden shingles, is entirely painted with Kamasan style scenes. This pavilion was used by the royal guard and became, under the colonial administration, the waiting room for defendants whose sentences were handed down in the Kerta Gosa pavilion. The paintings can be read on several levels. The first, from the bottom, relates the different phases of the astrological calendar. The second, the story of a Balinese couple burdened by the burden and trouble of their 18 children. Pan and Men Brayut tell in a realistic way the trials and tribulations of daily life. The upper levels narrate the life of the hero Sutasoma, a demi-god who upholds the principles and virtues of non-violence. Originally, this bale was used for tooth filing. This pavilion was restored, not to say rebuilt, in 1942 and some of the paintings, because of the climate and the choice of color pigments, were redone in 1945 and even later.

Kerta Gosa. The painted ceiling of the Kerta Gosa (Palace of Justice) has also suffered the ravages of time and nature. Partially destroyed by the eruption of Gunung Batur in 1917, it was repainted by the great artist Pan Seken in 1930 in the Kamasan style. Then his son, Pan Semaris, completed his father's work by restoring all the panels in 1960. Unfortunately, a number of these panels were painted with acrylic paint and the result belies the brightness of the colors. The panels are arranged in nine levels and are read in a succession of images like a comic book. The first ones tell the story of the Pancatantra, or the five episodes of the Tantri story. It is, like the tale of the Arabian Nights, a tale that Tantri unfolds night after night. Then, in level 2, it is the adventures of Bima (the Bima Swarga), one of the five Pandawa brothers in the Mahabharata , who wanders the evil underworld in search of the souls of his parents. At level 4, the search foramerta (the water of life) by the Garuda, who will be able to free his mother Winita and himself from slavery. Level 5 represents the effects and dangers of the earthquakes that must have distressed the population at that time. Levels 6 and 7 continue the story of Bima. Level 8, the Swarga Roh, describes the sweetness that can be expected from heaven or liberation.

The last level, Lokapala, depicts a lotus surrounded by the doves of supreme deliverance.

The punishments incurred by sinners, lovers and seducers are depicted in such a way that the accused, while awaiting the decision of their sentence, could not fail to read the long series of torments described on the panels.

Museum Semarajaya. Admission to the palace also includes a visit to the museum which contains a collection of paintings by Balinese and foreign artists, but above all it displays kriss (daggers), old newspaper articles and a room explaining the manufacture of palm sugar and salt in Bali.

Tip: To better understand the paintings and details of the temple, we recommend that you hire a local English-speaking guide.