PURA PENATARAN AGUNG

It is one of the most famous temples, and you must have seen its famous "Gates of Paradise" in pictures! The presence of Pura Batu Madeg suggests that the religious site of Besakih must have been originally a megalithic site with terraced constructions ordered around a reference stone. A number of temples are built on the plans of a pyramidal base of megalithic stones, some of which are believed to be over 2,000 years old. Some trace the origin of the temple itself to the 8th century, and to a priest, Sri Dangkyang Markandaya, who came from East Java with his disciples. Sri Markandaya is said to have seen most of his disciples die on the spot and to have gone back to Java to find other disciples. On their return, the priest would have ordered to prepare a ceremony, called Panca Datu, which would have consisted in burying the five fundamental metals (gold, silver, bronze, iron and copper) to bless the foundations of the Pura Basukian temple. This ceremony still accompanies the construction of a new temple today. Sri Markandaya's son then became the first high priest of the temple. He would have invited the successive priests and religious leaders and built temples and altars for each of them in the vicinity. In 913, Kesari Warmadewa would have built a palace, enlarged the Penataran Agung and built several more temples. It is known that in 1007 important ceremonies took place in the temple and it is said that it was the cremation of Queen Mahendratta, wife of King Udayana, who died the previous year. This monarch's wife is said to be the origin of the legend of Rangda. Temples were also dedicated to Empu Bharadah, a holy man to whom Rangda was said to have submitted.

Visit. It is the main temple of the Trimurti (Trinity): Pura Kiduling Kreteg, dedicated to Brahma, Pura Batu Madeg, dedicated to Vishnu and Pura Penataran Agung dedicated to Shiva.

The main temple extends over six levels connected by terraces. A monumental door (candi bentar) marks the entrance to the first level while the kori agung (large door), even more impressive, opens on the second. Unfortunately, visitors are not allowed to enter, but a path along the western facade allows you to see inside each courtyard. In the second courtyard, you can see the padmasana tiga, that is to say the three thrones representing the three gods of the Trimurti, which is quite rare, because in the temples nowadays we only see one throne corresponding to a single god, Sanghyang Widi. The Indonesian State, to be able to approve the Balinese religion, required indeed of the islanders to gather the various avatars in a single god. Changes have therefore taken place so that they can keep their practices and beliefs ... This court invites the faithful to place their offerings on the altars during the ceremonies. The other courtyards are generally empty, except for the magnificent méru (thatched roofs) which are reserved for the "descent" of the gods. Following the path to the northeast of the temple, there is a wonderful view of the sea, especially the Padang Bai area. In each Balinese village, three temples set the rhythm of life; Pura Puseh, Pura Desa and Pura Dalem. In Besakih, three temples fulfill this role; Pura Basukian, Pura Penataran Agung and Pura Dalem Puri. It is easy to understand why the Balinese speak of Besakih as a mother temple; the principle of Panca Dewata (classification into five important directions in Balinese religion) is also present here with the four cardinal points and the center; the center, representing Shiva is Pura Penataran Agung (polychrome). Pura Batu Madeg, the north, represents Vishnu (black). Pura Gelap, the east, represents Iswara (white). Pura Kiduling Kreteg, the south, represents Brahma (red). Pura Ulun Kulkul, the west, represents Mahadewa (yellow). Each Balinese region, given its orientation, is related to one of these five temples. Similarly, the places of worship in the island are symbolized by shrines that each have their specificity. It should be noted that the pandé (blacksmiths) have their own temple: Pura Ratu Pandé.

Practical. As in any temple on the island, remember to cover your legs and shoulders. If you don't have both, a sarong can be lent to you to cover your legs or arms. In the price of the entrance, a motorcycle cab ride to and from the island is also included. Be careful for the return trip, the drivers often ask for an extra charge when it is included.