SUNGKYUNKWAN UNIVERSITY

The National Confucian Academy and its Munmyo Shrine are located on the university campus. Founded in 1398 by Taejo, it took over the legacy of a long-established institution in Korea. There had been an academy performing the same functions since Goguryeo (372), called Daehak, later transferred under Silla to Gyeongju (Gukhak), then to Gaeseong under Goryeo (Gukchagam, 992). The latter later took the name Seonggyun-gwan in 1288, the academy that "leads to maturity (to) build a harmonious (or uniform) society". This sums up the Confucian ideal of this ancient institution, certainly the most sacred in traditional Korea. Here, young yangbans were trained in Chinese classics and the Confucian ideal in preparation for the competitive examination for senior civil servants (gwageo). This academy, the oldest in the country, operated in Seoul from 1398 until 1910, when the Japanese transformed it into a private elementary school. In 1895, Gojong introduced a number of modernizations, such as end-of-year exams and semesters. After the liberation, the academy resumed its role as guardian of Confucian values. Seonggyun-gwan University was established on the same site, operating to Western standards. Although the Confucian academy has ceased its educational activities, it remains the country's highest Confucian institution.

It isstill possible to visit the old buildings, destroyed in 1592 but rebuilt in 1606 and restored in 1869. The main Daeseongjeon hall houses the tablets of Confucius(Gongja), his 4 Chinese disciples, 16 Chinese sages and 18 Korean sages. The hall is only open during ceremonies in honor of Confucius. These ceremonies, Seokjeonje, were Joseon's most complex. Quite comparable to those performed at Jongmyo in honor of the kings, they take place twice a year on the spring and autumn solstices, on dates fixed according to the lunar calendar (fifth day of the second month and fifth day of the eighth month). If you're in Seoul at this time, it's essential to find out about these dates, as they represent a unique opportunity to witness this kind of ritual. It was first performed in China in Shandong under the Tang in 478 BC, but the Chinese have long since stopped doing it. Taiwan, where the last descendant of Confucius took refuge, continues to honor the master in a similar way, and is said to have recognized the excellence of the Korean rite. It is said to have been introduced into Korea over 1,000 years ago, under Silla. It used to take place at 7 a.m. (now 10 a.m.) and lasted 2 hours. After a procession to the altar, during which the officiant invites the spirits to enter, offerings of food, silk and alcohol, as well as prayers, are presented to the spirits. Groups of students from the National Institute of Classical Music perform a 2-part dance to ritual music. The ceremony is long, slow and full of majesty. All participants wear traditional costumes.

The main lecture hall, Myeongnyundang, where students used to attend lectures at around 10 a.m., before engaging in personal readings of Chinese classics in one of the study rooms, is still visible. Discussion of these texts was encouraged. Indeed, most of the curriculum was based on their understanding and commentary. Students also took courses in mathematics, etiquette, music, archery, horseback riding and classical Chinese literature. Etiquette and music developed a sense of harmony and propriety, as expressed in the 5 cardinal relations. They were also expected to practice calligraphy and composition in classical Chinese.

Behind Myeongnyundang is the library, Jonkyeonggak. The refectory(Jinsa), where students shared their meals, still exists. They had to stay as boarders in the academy, their studies being paid for by the state (2 dormitories remain, Dongjae and Seojae). Students enjoyed a certain autonomy and privileges. Once a year, they indulged in an entertainment called yuhui, during which they parodied the system, officials and even the king. The young men who passed the contest went on to occupy important positions in government and administration. Their influence was enormous: the king could not avoid their advice. In this respect, Seonggyun-gwan is inseparable from the culture and history of premodern Korea. Four ginkgo trees are said to have been planted by the first class. Another ginkgo was planted in 1519 by the principal in memory of Confucius, who liked to meditate under this tree.

A small museum displays over 10,000 objects covering the entire history of Korea. There are, of course, many items relating to Confucian culture, such as a large collection of texts printed with metal parts, musical instruments and so on. The museum has moved to larger premises on campus and hopes to specialize in Confucian culture.

Beware, the campus is very large and a little steep, and it's easy to get lost in its pretty grounds: be sure to look at a map before entering.