CHANGGYEONGGUNG PALACE

This palace was built in 1104 by King Sukjong of Goryeo as a summer palace, with an east-west orientation typical of Goryeo. King Taejo moved here in 1394 to await completion of the Gyeongbokgung. King Sejong built a new palace here in 1418 for his father Taejong, who had abdicated in his favor. It was enlarged in 1484 to accommodate King Sejo's widows, and was given its present name. Destroyed in 1592, it was rebuilt in 1616. In the 1830s, much of the building was destroyed by fire, before being rebuilt in 1834. Throughout the dynasty, it served as an auxiliary palace for queens and the king's father. In 1907, a botanical garden was created. In 1909, the Japanese transformed the complex into a zoo, calling it a park(won), as if to humiliate the Korean memory. In the 1980s, the palace was restored and the zoo moved to Gwacheon.

The palace is a delight to stroll around, especially in spring when the cherry trees, azaleas and forsythias are in bloom. In winter, its short, yellowing lawns form an august landscape around the palaces. A footbridge links the palace to the Jongmyo shrine in the southwest corner. Entrance to the palace grounds is via the Honghwamun Gate (Gate of Vast Change), followed by a stream crossing on the capital's oldest stone bridge, the Okcheongyo Bridge (Jade Stream Bridge), dating from 1484. Beyond Myeongjeongmun lies the throne hall courtyard, similar to that of the Gyeongbokgung. The Myeongjeongjeon throne hall (the hall of brilliant government) was built in 1484 and was not destroyed in 1592 by the Japanese, making it the oldest throne hall in Korea. Behind it, the pretty Tongmyeongjeon hall was used as the queens' main residence when the court resided at Changdeokgung. A little higher up is a Western-style red-brick building, built in 1911 by the Japanese to house a museum. Documents relating to the Joseon royal family are now kept here. In the park are 2 astronomical instruments invented under Joseon, Punggidae and Gwanchondae, which are the pride of Koreans, who come to photograph the precious objects. To the north is the Chundangji pond, with the inevitable pavilion in the botanical garden. A greenhouse displays orchids. The park is particularly pleasant to visit in autumn, when the trees take on their tawny hues.