GUKSADANG AND MUAKDONG DISTRICT
Complex of Buddhist pseudo-temples, shamanist shrines clinging to the mountain in the Muak-dong district.
The Muak-dong district is one of the least known and yet one of the most interesting in Seoul. On its heights, stands a complex of pseudo-Buddhist temples which, in fact, are shamanist sanctuaries. Clinging to the mountain along a small stream, they are richly decorated and mostly located in houses of traditional architecture. If you are lucky, you may be able to attend a shamanistic ritual, perhaps a gut (exorcism). Be discreet and ask permission before entering and photographing. These shamans settled in this area after the Japanese moved the Guksadang altar from Namsan (Baldakjeong) to this location. This small altar, located in the heights of the district, was built under King Taejong. The interior paintings date from 1623. The altar is dedicated to Taejo, the founder of Joseon, to the gods of the sky, the mountain and the sea, to Muhak Kuksa (Taejo's high priest advisor), to the Great Commanders and to General Joe Yeong of Goryeo, one of Taejo's adversaries, who had him executed, and whose shamans made him one of their deities.
Higher up, a marked path leads to a small spring, the Vagina of Mother Earth, where the faithful come to pray and make offerings for their fertility. Further on, after branching off to the left, there is a rock on a promontory, Seonbaui ("the rock of Zen"). It naturally has the shape of a Zen monk in robe, so it is the object of worship.
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