CENTER ARTISANAL CAVA

Don't miss an afternoon stroll through the shady alleys of this pretty Centre Artisanal de la Ville d'Abidjan (CAVA) in Treichville. Arranged like a small village of red-brick huts, it's quite vast. Myriads of batiks, Korhogo canvases, loincloths, bronzes, jewels and naïve paintings enhance the darkness of the small stalls with their shimmering brilliance. If you have a certain knowledge of African art and a taste for bargains, you'll find that some stores are veritable Ali Baba's caves. Indeed, while CAVA offers a wide choice of Ivorian and African handicrafts for everyday use, decoration and clothing, you'll also find some superb pieces from Ghana, Mali and Nigeria. Each vendor has his or her own specialty, and you can even watch some of the craftsmen at work. Among the must-sees at this craft market are Dominique's naïfs with his "Boterian" muse Abiba, the opulent healer; small settlers and bronzes on glass; doorstoppers, figurative statuettes and shimmering birds magnificently painted with Autolac by old Léon (entrance on the right); the superb paintings under glass by Barakkart and Karim ; mimi's exuberant and colorful imagination; the Grenier des perles africaines; Nicolas' stunning recycled creations; and Ikakene d'Afrique's natural shea butter-based cosmetics, presented in pretty gourds and small earthenware containers. The maquis at the center of the market serves breakfast, and you can also grab a bite to eat at lunchtime for a ridiculously low price, to recharge your batteries between two bargains. A few moments' rest at the end of the afternoon is a very pleasant way to round off the day, while all around, the merchants begin to close up store. There is, however, one small reservation to be made: the small size of the place and its clearly touristy vocation make it all the more obvious that you're a toubabou-wallet-walker, which means you'll be approached every fifty centimetres or so by vendors offering to "just have a look". It's a pleasant place to be, but if you want to make the most of it, it's best to be prepared and armed with time and patience, as you'll be constantly solicited and, if you're tempted to buy, the haggling is likely to drag on and on.