ABOMEY MUSEUM - ROYAL PALACE

Please note that the palace was closed for renovation at the time of writing (summer 2024) and is due to reopen at the end of 2025. In the meantime, you can take a tour of the few open palaces.

In the space of 300 years, no fewer than twelve palaces were built in the capital of the kingdom of Abomey, since every new sovereign who ascended the throne had to build a new palace close to that of his predecessor. A gigantic royal city was thus built over an area of more than 40 hectares, but the earthen constructions suffered greatly from the rains and even more so from the fire deliberately set by Béhanzin in 1893, when the French invaded. Today, all that remains are the palaces of kings Ghézo (1818-1858) and Glélé (1858-1889), father of Béhanzin, in which this museum has been housed. However, the site is under the protection of Unesco, which has classified it as a World Heritage Site.

In any case, it's a good introduction to the kingdom's history. The museum's buildings display objects that belonged to the various kings, such as parasols, tunics, jewels... In the throne room, which is carved from cheese wood, the most striking piece is Ghézo's throne, which is mounted on... four human skulls. Yes, they weren't tender-hearted! And the women were no match for the men... The famous Amazons we see in battle on paintings were formidable warriors who, it is said, cut off their breasts to improve their archery skills! In the same vein, we learn that the walls of the jexo temple, which houses the king's spirit, were made from earth mixed with pearls, cowries and the blood of defeated enemies.

After passing through several rooms, including the weapons room and King Glélé's council room, now the jewelry room, you reach the court of the queens. In the center is a circular hut where Glélé's wives were buried on their way to join their deceased royal husband, whose tomb is also nearby. At this point in the visit, the museum guide is quick to point out that you can make an offering to the king to honour his presence. Because, as everyone knows, the king doesn't die... he travels.

The museum's other interest lies in the discovery of original works, such as the famous polychrome bas-reliefs depicting episodes from Glélé's reign, the famous recades (scepters, the king's batons of command) and the assin, portable altars that can be dedicated to an ancestor or a divinity.

King Behanzin's tomb. Since his remains were repatriated in 1928, the tomb of the last king of Dahomey has been located within the royal palace in Djimé, a district of Abomey. The funerary hut was built in a large courtyard. Inside, a tomb bed is covered with cloth. With the exception of a black-and-white photo showing Béhanzin, the interior is completely bare. Access to the tomb requires authorization. Don't hesitate to ask at the Maison du tourisme, where the guides on offer are highly competent.

Royal audience. To request an audience, it's best to contact an agency that has been introduced to the royal family, or the tourist office. Depending on the period, this is sometimes possible.