BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA ASSUNTA

Here you are in the lagoon's oldest religious building. Sober and elegant, the Byzantine basilica stands near the remains of the Baptistery, Santa Fosca and two Gothic palaces. Erected in 641, it was extensively remodeled in the ^9th and ^11th centuries. The solemn interior is divided into three naves by 18 Greek marble columns. The relics of Venice's first bishop are preserved in a Roman sarcophagus near the altar. The mosaic decoration, created between the ^11th and ^12th centuries, is an absolute masterpiece in its unparalleled richness and luminosity. Extremely rich, it contrasts sharply with the sobriety of the building. The reverse of the façade, in particular, is covered with a splendid mosaic depicting the Last Judgment, rich in detail. Divided into six registers, this theme must be read from top to bottom. It is divided into two parts: the Judgment itself in the lower section, and the death and resurrection of Christ in the upper section. Particularly impressive is the depiction of the damned in the lower register. In the apse arch, an Annunciation shows the Virgin Mary with a spindle in her hand; in the center of the apse is the Virgin Mary with Child. The window to the east symbolizes Christ; next to it, the apostles advance through a field of poppies. In the right apse, Christ is enthroned, surrounded by the archangels Michael and Gabriel. In the lower register are the Doctors of the Church. Finally, the mosaics on the groin vault (Four Angels Carrying the Mystic Lamb) are reminiscent of those in Ravenna; indeed, it's not impossible that the same artists worked in both places. A remarkable ^15th-century Byzantine iconostasis, supported by columns, separates the central nave from the choir. The twelve apostles surround the Virgin and Child. The capitals of the small columns that support it are carved with peacocks, lions and ducks of rare beauty. A small curiosity in the entrance garden is a^5th-century marble seat said to have been used by Attila, king of the Huns...

At the back of the basilica stands the campanile. Erected in the ^11th century, it was used to control navigation in the lagoon. The climb is quite steep, but the beauty of the panorama at the top will reward your efforts. Soak up the silence, especially if you're visiting in low season.