ABOUNA YEMATA CHURCH (GUH)

This church is undoubtedly the most difficult to reach, due to its spectacular location, buried as it is in the heart of a rocky outcrop, which can be seen from Mariam Korkor at the end of the rocky façade stretching north-westwards. It's also the best-known church in Tigray. After a good hour's ascent, many give up on the final stretch: a small sheer drop pierced by irregular holes where you have to cling on hand and foot, a few dead branches serving incidentally as a handrail - and recently, at last, a rope to get over the most perilous wall passage. If you're afraid of heights, don't bother - it's mission impossible! Those who overcome the obstacle won't regret it: the entrance to the church is located at the end of a narrow passage running alongside a vertiginous cliff. A few meters of this is a guaranteed thrill. Once your eyes have become accustomed to the darkness, you'll discover the frescoes that adorn the sanctuary. They are described as the finest ever discovered in the Tigray region. On the entrance ceiling, nine figures in a circle are identified by inscriptions as eight of the apostles and, according to an unconfirmed theory, Christ's brother is depicted. On the other dome, eight figures in the same posture represent eight of the nine Syrian saints who, according to tradition, were responsible for the evangelization of the country from the ^6th century onwards. The ninth, Abouna Yemata himself, is depicted on horseback on one of the walls. The freshness of the colors is an indication that these paintings date from the ^15th or ^16th century. The young priest in charge of this church will be happy to show you some richly illustrated and well-preserved ancient gheze bibles.

Please note. Due to the success of this church, which is very popular with tourists, the rope "helpers" have no qualms about trying to extort money from tourists (even though the rope was provided free of charge by an association to make the site a little safer). They ask for 100 birr each after helping you down, even if it means blocking your way if you don't comply. Don't let them do this to you, as it's not normal. Give them 50 birr for each person you help, and that's more than enough. The priest will also ask for 100 birrs per person, which is more like 50 birrs on top of the entrance fee.