Built on the banks of the Saône more than 3,000 years ago, the city of Chalon-sur-Saône is today an ideal place to discover the pleasures of Burgundy. Gastronomy and wine culture are deliciously mixed to make you live a stay high in flavors. And in this city full of history, there is no lack of activities, especially during the carnival at the end of February and the beginning of March (from February 24 to March 5 this year). A unique opportunity to put down your bags in this city of art and culture.

A historical city

Chalon-sur-Saône is a festive city, but it is also full of history, since prehistoric men settled there and the Romans made it a strategic center. Under the Revolution, during the setting up of the new administrative districts, Chalon was supplanted by Mâcon as chief town of the department and lost its status of bishopric (1790). But the city will know a new development with the construction of the canal of the Center (end of XVIIIth, beginning of XIXth), then that of the canals of Burgundy and the Rhone to the Rhine which develop more the regional trade by river. It was at this time that Nicéphore Niepce developed several revolutionary processes, including photography. The first photograph in the world was taken near here.

During the Second World War, the city was in an uncomfortable situation. From June 1940 to November 1942, the demarcation line crossed at the level of the Saône, Chalon being in the occupied zone and the left bank from Saint-Marcel in the free zone.

Today, the numerous vestiges of the medieval past of the second largest city in Burgundy still seduce its visitors.

A heritage to discover

The visit begins with the superb Saint-Vincent cathedral. This former seat of the diocese of Chalon-sur-Saône stands in the heart of the old town. Surrounded by shops and restaurants, the cathedral is worth a visit. It has been classified as a historical monument since 1903 and its two towers were classified in 1991. Built in the5th century, on the site of a temple probably dedicated to Mars, and rebuilt between the 11th and 16th centuries, the cathedral displays two architectural periods: the Romanesque and the Gothic ages. Inside, the beauty of some of the capitals and the side chapels closed by stone grills (a regional peculiarity) in the southern aisles are noteworthy. Other chapels house a large tapestry of the Blessed Sacrament executed around 1510, a stone pietà from the end of the 15th century, a painting on wood by the painter Richard Tassel dating from 1608, representing Christ and the angels, and, in the front sacristy, a 16th century stained glass window evoking the Apocalypse. The superb cloister dates from the end of the 14th century and has four wooden statues. The organ dates from the end of the 17th century and the organ case has been classified as a historical monument since 1846. The building also has a model for the visually impaired, located at the entrance.

The visit continues a few meters from the cathedral, once you have crossed the Saint-Laurent bridge. On the quays, you will find the Tour du Doyenné. This ancient staircase-tower served the apartments of the dean of Saint-Vincent. Threatened with ruin, it was demolished in 1907, sold and abandoned in a Parisian courtyard before being rebuilt in 1926. After a short break in its garden, head for the Espace Patrimoine, quai des Messageries. This private mansion highlights the history and heritage of this city of art and history. It offers temporary exhibitions and a permanent exhibition which allows you to discover the evolution of the city since Antiquity.

Finally, you should not forget to take a look at the Saint-Pierre church located in front of the city hall. Built from 1698 to 1713 in the shape of a Greek cross, this former Benedictine chapel has a particular architecture with an Italian style exterior and a baroque interior.

Museums to visit

Just in front of the Saint-Pierre church, you can enter the Denon museum(free of charge). It houses some major works. One part is dedicated to fine arts, through masterpieces of Neapolitan painting of the 17th century and the school of Rembrandt, while the basement allows you to discover archaeological treasures discovered in the Saône. There is also a unique collection of 160 woodcuts in France. In 2023, an exhibition on archery, Le Noble jeu de l'Arc (The Noble Game of the Bow), will be on display, followed by a focus on drawing in the service of archaeology. Let's remember that Vivant Denon, born in Chalon-sur-Saône in 1747, was director of the Louvre museum and minister of arts under Napoleon. The city of Chalon wanted to pay tribute to him by creating this museum dedicated to the works of Vivant Denon and to art as a whole.

Then back to the Quai des Messageries to go back to the history of photography. Indeed, in 1954 the Kodak Pathé Company selected the city as an industrial location allowing it to gradually transfer the activities of its factory in Vincennes in the provinces. Despite its closure in 2008, Chalon-Sur-Saône remains the cradle of photography and it was only natural that its inventor, Nicephore Niepce, should be honored there. This is the case with this museum, probably one of the oldest and one of the richest dedicated to photography. A must-see. Installed since 1972 in the former Hôtel des Messageries royales, it preserves unique treasures in the world. You can go through the ages admiring professional or amateur works, and discovering the technological evolutions from the first camera to today's smartphone. The museum also honors contemporary photography through numerous temporary exhibitions.

The three blows of the carnival

And then, finally, it's time to celebrate! Nationally known for its annual festival of street arts "Chalon dans la Rue", organized at the end of July, Chalon-sur-Saône is also known for its carnival, from February 24 to March 5 this year. For ten days, Chalon-sur-Saône vibrates to the rhythm of the gôniots. It is not a strange animal but rather people with the most festive spirit who stroll in the streets by making the most noise possible. One also crosses large heads in pasteboard with the devastating smile. This is the picture that has been parading every year for almost a century. A history that makes the carnival of Chalon the5th of France. The event is articulated around two big parades with a multitude of floats and confetti on Sunday afternoons. Not to be missed: the Carnaband's Show, a musical show with 300 artists from all over Europe, or the closing night and its fireworks during which King Carnival, previously judged and sentenced to death, is burned and thrown into the Saône. The last attraction of the event is the presence of more than 150 fairs, which makes it the biggest fair of the region. The editions follow one another, always high in color, laughter and conviviality. An event not to be missed, whether you are in costume or not!

Smart info


When is it? The arrival of good weather is the ideal time. Otherwise, to attend the carnival in this year 2023, go from February 24 to March 5.

How to get there. By plane (Lyon airport), by train or by car, everything is possible.

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