"Those who seek paradise on earth should go to Dubrovnik," wrote the indefatigable playwright and traveller George Bernard Shaw in the early 20th century. The adage is particularly relevant outside the July/August period, when the hordes of visitors no longer storm this Dalmatian jewel city in southern Croatia. For if Dubrovnik is indeed the Pearl of the Adriatic, the secret has been largely concealed! With an exceptional built heritage, nestled at the foot of Mount Srđ, Dubrovnik offers its green landscapes, Mediterranean coastline and unrestrained culinary traditions

Dubrovnik's splendid old town

It is in the old town of Dubrovnik, sheltered by ramparts that everything has been happening since the 12th century, when Ragusa, the Latin, and Dubrava, the Slavic, decided to unite. They then filled in the arm of the sea that separated them and built fortifications that were reinforced over the centuries. This is how the Stradun was born, the main street of the old town, 300 m long, from which a multitude of alleys lead off. Severely destroyed by the earthquake of 1667, Dubrovnik was rebuilt in a baroque style, which is still intact today. And this is where all the magic of Ragusa happens: no need to go to the museum (although it is highly recommended to do so!), history flashes before your eyes, along the walk between the two gates / drawbridges: that of Pile and Ploče. Between the two, it's a maze of squares and alleys where restaurant terraces, cafes, a multitude of stalls, as well as churches and restful monasteries, open to visit, are nestled

An art of living and a sun-drenched gastronomy

The old town of today is the favourite district for gourmets! Its adorable little market on Gundulićeva Poljana Square has no equal for filling your suitcase with gustatory souvenirs: imunčini or arančini (dried oranges and lemons covered in sugar), olive oil, homemade liqueurs... the list is long! For lunch, the old port offers its tables to lovers of shellfish or squid ink risotto like the very pleasant Azur (Pobijana, 10). It serves inventive cuisine that combines Asian influences with local ingredients: octopus, fresh fish, shrimp... Not far away, Bota šare (Ul. od Pustijerne) also plays the Asian card by offering Dalmatian sushi

Other essential ingredients: good regional wines, among the best in the country. The Pelješac peninsula, 50 km from the old town, produces red wines of character such as Dingač, Poštup and Plavac Mali, as well as oysters in the Ston isthmus. On the white wine side, prošek, a dessert wine, is the source of several regional recipes, including Pašticada, a rich beef stew, expertly simmered. Oenophiles wishing to go further will head to the excellent D'vino wine bar (Palmotićeva ul. 4A), which organises wine tours from the old town. Beyond the city walls, two kilometres away, Dubrovnik's culinary renewal continues, between Lapad and Gruž. Restaurants such as Pantarul or Porat and its neighbour Amfora, sublimate traditional recipes to better highlight the local culinary treasures.

Lazing around, kayaking, cycling, hiking..

After a good meal, it's time to work out! Or why not, put your towel on the beach of Banje (fine sandy beach at the exit of the old town after Ploče) or that of Cava, the latest beach developed in Lapad. Those who also want to try the art of cliff jumping can do so below the legendary Buža bars on the rock south of the city walls

Unless one opts for Danče beach (after Pile, a mix of concrete and rocks), which enjoys exceptional exposure!

Another popular activity starting from the old town is sea kayaking. A great many agencies offer a well-designed 2-hour itinerary including a breathtaking view of the city walls and a stop on the island of Lokrum. This island, which has the status of a nature park, is located a few kilometres from the port of the old town and is easily accessible by boat (every 30 minutes). It is considered THE beach for Dubrovnikers. It offers great swimming opportunities. Don't forget to bring your flippers and snorkels! On land, there are some pleasant paths hidden in the shade of the pine trees.

Mountain bikers will want to explore the hinterland of Dubrovnik, the Konavle, around the pretty seaside resort of Cavtat. This rural region cultivates its popular traditions, including its embroidery and linđo dance, accompanied by a three-stringed instrument that is still played after mass on Sundays in Čilipi. The bravest can even attempt an assault on the 14th-century fortified tower Sokol Grad. To recover, Konavle has good small restaurants, vineyards and tables d'hôtes stamped Agroturizam, serving lamb, mutton or octopus cooked under the ash (peka cooking). Finally, Cavtat lends itself well to diving (it is also possible to dive in Dubrovnik itself).

By boat to the Elaphite islands, Korčula and Mljet

Dubrovnik is also a small nautical paradise. Those who have a coastal licence can anchor at the marina in Mokošica-Komolac or at the marina in Slano. It is also possible to hire a skipper. For those who cannot afford a yacht, there is Jadrolinija, the Croatian shipping company that connects Dubrovnik with the islands of the region (and a myriad of private companies that organize boat trips).

The escape from the old town will cost you only a few kuna. 30 min to 1h30 by boat later, we reach the Elaphite islands, already appreciated by the Ragusan nobility during the Republic as many patrician villas attest. All three islands are inhabited (and converted to tourism) today: the closest Koločep and also the smallest (4 km long) is courted in the whole region. The medium-sized Lopud offers nice walks and a wide sandy beach in Šunj. Finally, Šipan, the furthest away, is also the largest, and is home to some remarkable Ragusan villas.

Further afield, but still accessible by boat from Dubrovnik, are the islands of Korčula and Mljet. Korčula features a lovely old Venetian town. The island will please hikers (and swimmers: beautiful sandy beach at Lumbarda) while further still, Mljet, the greenest island in the whole Adriatic, hides a national park carved out for walks and sea bathing. Land, sea and choice restaurants, in the region you can enjoy yourself!

Useful information

When is the weather? Dubrovnik has uninterrupted good weather from May to October, making it a perfect summer destination

How to get there. By plane, count on a 2-hour flight and from €120 to €350 for a direct return ticket in summer from Paris, Lyon, Bordeaux, Nice, Geneva and Brussels

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Useful. To prepare your trip as well as possible.

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