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Practical information : Eating out Turkey
Timetable
Cafés and restaurants close, in principle, around midnight; some cafés and bars at 2am; other bars and discotheques at 4am. Some büfe close at 6am and others are open 24 hours a day, such as tripe shops, which offer the famous kokoreç by day and night. In Istanbul, it is possible to eat at any time. In small towns and villages, this is not the case at all and you should plan to have dinner before it gets dark or you will go to bed hungry.
Budget & Tips
Lokanta (self-service restaurants where the customer chooses from a selection of dishes displayed in the window) are very common in Turkey and offer everything from meat, rice, vegetables and mezze for a very reasonable price. This solution offers a varied and convenient choice of dishes, which is why it is the preferred canteen for many. Kebapçı (kebab restaurants), köfteci (restaurants specializing in the famous meatballs flavored with herbs and spices, köfte) and pideci (where the long Turkish pizzas are served) are other inexpensive and cheerful alternatives when you are hungry and want to eat on the go. Also, among the "inexpensive" staples of Turkish daily food are börek (a puff pastry speciality filled with cheese, potato or spinach, usually eaten for breakfast), gözleme (a kind of Turkish pancake with the same filling), the inevitable simit (the "Turkish pretzel" sold in the street for a mouthful of bread or in bakeries and cafes), the famous doner kebab (the Turkish version is eaten without sauce), the no less famous and stambouliotebalık ekmek (literally "fish bread", a sandwich with fish, salad, tomato, onion, often freshly caught in the Bosphorus), the midye dolma (mussels stuffed with rice that you eat standing up in a hurry) and, of course, the innumerable toasts and çorba (soups) that are eaten for nothing.
What costs extra
Tipping is widely practiced and is generally discretionary and not expected to be claimed. However, it is customary to leave about 10% of the bill if the service in a restaurant is good. Some restaurants display the percentage of service added to the bill at the bottom of their menu. This practice is more widely used in tourist restaurants. Tipping is also done for a delivery person. Tipping in euros or foreign currency is very popular.
The local way
Drinkayran (a drink made of yogurt, water and salt) to accompany your meal. In fact, this is the drink that is offered in all lokanta. The more daring among you can opt for şalgam suyu, a very vinegary purple colored juice made from a particular variety of radish, rutabaga, black or purple carrot, whose taste reminds a bit of beet. You can find it in supermarkets and in small street restaurants.
To be avoided
Globalization obliges, you will find the same international brands (often fast food) on Turkish soil. Favour small local and typical gargotes.
Kids
Turkey is a kid friendly country, so the majority of shops offer dishes or menus specially designed for the youngest, with adapted prices.
Smokers
Since 2008, smoking in restaurants is prohibited in Turkey. Signs announce this ("sigara içmek yasaktır") and warn you that a fine of 109 TL is incurred in case of violation of the law. However, the ban is not respected everywhere and in some places the manager will be lenient with nicotine craving smokers.
Tourist traps
It seems obvious, but be careful not to fall into the trap of restaurants concentrated in tourist areas. The food is often of poor quality and the prices unjustly inflated. It is often better to move away from a few alleys and get a decent meal. Your stomach and your wallet will thank you.