Legendary horse races
It's hard to think of Mongolia without conjuring up images of horsemen hurtling across the steppes at full speed... Horse racing still draws crowds on the Mongolian steppes today for the national Naadam festival. Particularly the races for horses aged 2 to 6. Horses are separated according to their age, and the distance to be covered is proportionately longer. The 5-year-olds run 30 km, the 4-year-olds 21 km, and so on. The distances are very long, and the discipline is dangerous both for the riders (who sometimes suffer impressive falls) and for the horses. At least once per Naadam, a horse collapses before the finish line, never to get up again. Yet the horses have undergone rigorous training. A few weeks before the race, their feed is reduced and they are trained over longer and longer distances, often in direct sunlight, to melt their body fat.
Note that the riders are children, mainly boys, aged between 8 and 15 and no older, as they have to be small in stature. And most of them ride bareback, to keep their mounts as light as possible! They are dressed in colorful pants and blouses, and wear a kind of hat with a vertical visor on the front. Riders riding the same owner's horses are all dressed identically, and have numbered bibs attached to their blouses.
Before the start, the riders go around the referees' stand three times, singing to encourage their mounts. One of the referees then leads them to the starting point, and the race is run in a long straight line across the steppe. Only the horse's performance counts, not that of the rider. Thus, a horse that has unseated its jockey, but still crosses the finish line, is classified like the others.
The winner gets all the attention. He is given a blue scarf, and spectators crowd around him to catch a few drops of his sweat, which is supposed to bring happiness and luck throughout the year! In races reserved for 2-year-olds, the last horse to finish is not left to his fate either. A song is sung in honor of the horse nicknamed "full stomach", and defeat is attributed not to the horse but to its owner and rider..
Traditional wrestling and sumo wrestling
The other popular Mongolian discipline is wrestling. However, for foreigners unfamiliar with the rules, wrestling can be a little confusing. Wrestlers generally compete over 9 rounds, but there are no weight categories. In fact, wrestlers are ranked at the start of the Naadam according to their previous performances, and those at the top of the table can choose their opponent. As a result, the first round usually turns into a battle between the big and the small, with the latter being flipped like pancakes in a matter of seconds!
Fighting is highly ritualized. Each wrestler is accompanied by his trainer, who ceremoniously holds his hat during the bout. Wrestlers wear minimalist briefs, a camisole with a wide-open chest, and colorful boots. Wrestling legend justifies the camisole as a measure designed to unmask any women who might have had the idea of competing against their male counterparts (this has apparently happened before, when wrestlers were dressed in closed blouses, and the women won!) Almost any blow is allowed, and the aim is to force the opponent to put a knee or an elbow to the ground. After each bout, the winner strides towards the banners, around which he performs the eagle dance, imitating the flapping of the bird's wings with his arms. He then returns to the unfortunate wrestler, who passes under his arm as a sign of submission.
Winning a Naadam is a title of glory that reverberates throughout the family. The wrestler who wins 5 out of 9 rounds takes the title of Falcon, the one who wins 7 is named Elephant. The winner of the Naadam is awarded the title of Lion, and the wrestler who manages to retain his title for at least two years is recognized as Titan.
A predilection for sumo. Strengthened by their ancestral wrestling tradition, Mongolians are logically very successful in another discipline: sumo. Among the most successful sumo wrestlers on an international scale are two Mongolians: Asashoryn Akinori (fighting name Dolgorsuren Dagvadorj) and Hakuho Sho (real name Munkhbat Davaajargal), although the latter, a true legend of the discipline and certainly the greatest in history, chose Japanese nationality in 2019. He has lived in the Japanese archipelago since he was 15. Among professional sumos, the largest foreign contingent is that of the Mongols. Although they are generally smaller and less corpulent than their Japanese counterparts, they often manage to win thanks to a more elaborate technique, inherited from the Mongolian wrestling tradition.
Archery, a traditional discipline
Archery is the third Naadam discipline, and remains the least popular with the Mongolian public. The discipline has evolved since archers traditionally shot while riding a galloping horse. Nowadays, they stand still and aim at targets made up of small sandbags piled up on the ground. The discipline is open to women and children, who compete in separate categories. For children up to the age of 16, the target is placed at a distance proportional to their age (age x 4 for boys, age x 3 for girls). Men shoot at targets set at 75 meters, while women shoot at 60 meters. Probably the most attractive sight in archery competitions is that of the shooter's family and friends. Placed on either side of the target, they perform dances and songs after each arrow, to give the archer clues as to the accuracy of his shot.
Popular modern sports
Combat sports. On the international sporting scene, Mongolia is best known for its combat sports. At the 2021 Tokyo Olympic Games, the vast majority of Mongolian athletes were competing in sports such as judo, wrestling, shooting and boxing. The Mongolian delegation won one silver (Saeid Mollaei) and two bronze (Urantsetseg Munkhbat, Tsend-Ochiryn Tsogtbaatar) medals in judo and one bronze (Bat-Ochiryn Bolortuyaa) in wrestling.
Basketball. This sport, which is not a traditional one, is very popular with youngsters. There are basketball courts everywhere, even deep in the steppes and where you'd least expect them. Everyone plays, everywhere and all the time. Foreigners are always welcome and quickly invited to join a team. The women's national 3x3 team took part in the Tokyo Olympics.
Discovering a mythical nature
Mongolia is, of course, an image of almost untouched nature, from the vast steppes of Eastern Mongolia to the infinite flatness of the Gobi Desert, from the snow-capped peaks of the Altai to the lake depression in the north of the country. A veritable paradise for observers of flora and fauna, there are a number of ways to discover it.
Hiking and trekking. The country's national parks offer many opportunities for trekking, and the western aimags will be the preferred terrain for lovers of high mountains and snow-capped peaks. However, this activity must be undertaken with the utmost caution, and with solid local supervision. The most beautiful trekking areas (Altai Nature Reserve, Gurvan Saykhan National Park, Khaan Khentiy Protected Area, Khangai Nuruu National Park) are wild and sparsely populated, which requires efficient logistics in terms of food and water. The constraints of altitude are felt throughout the country, not just in the Altai: sudden temperature changes, unpredictable rain and thunderstorms. It is therefore advisable to be well equipped and accompanied by experienced local guides. Mountaineering and trekking are also relatively new activities in Mongolia, and providers of this kind of service are expanding rapidly.
Horse riding. With over two million horses on its territory, it's only logical to discover Mongolia on horseback. Discovering the country on horseback is the ideal way to experience the local rhythm, to get to know the nomadic way of life and to penetrate remote areas where even Jeeps have no access. The only region not recommended for horseback riders is the Gobi Desert, where horses give way to camels. Everywhere else, horses are king. The Arkhangai, Khövsgöl and Khentiy aimags are particularly recommended for riders: dotted with numerous lakes and rivers, alternating between steppes and mountainous areas, they make the most of the opportunities offered by equestrian holidays.
Mongolian horses are nervous (because they're half wild), but they're small, which means that even novice riders can quickly get to grips with the joys of riding without the risk of painful falls. Organizing horseback riding tours in Mongolia couldn't be easier. Most tour operators offer this option, either on a long-term basis or for one or two days during a stay. And most ger camps organize horseback rides of varying lengths around their base. There are also agencies specializing in equestrian holidays (or more generally, sports tourism).
Camel rides. With tourism on the rise, certain camel populations have been deliberately relocated northwards to satisfy the desires of visitors who want to ride between their humps without having to descend into the south of the country. But nothing beats three days or more of riding atop this ruminant mammal so emblematic of the Gobi Desert. The more adventurous will enjoy a few accelerations. But above all, camels provide access to areas that horses could never reach. A real change of scenery.
Yak rides. A long-haired ruminant originally from Tibet, the yak is an unusual beast of burden and one of Mongolia's characteristic animals (especially for its milk) found in mountainous areas. Yak-riding is more a form of entertainment than a real option for long-distance travel. Even less so for several days at a time.
Dog-sledding and snowshoeing. Here's an excellent way to discover Mongolia in winter mode! Whether near Ulan Bator, in Gorkhi Terelj National Park, or on the icy waters of Lake Khövsgöl National Park, you can drive your own dog team. A real adventure, as routes can vary according to the whims of snow and ice. An authentic experience with a change of scenery guaranteed! You can also explore the parks on snowshoes.
A fishing paradise
With almost 400 rivers and numerous high-altitude lakes in which nearly a hundred species of fish frolic, Mongolia is the ideal country for hookahs. The most popular fishing techniques are fly-fishing, casting and spinning.
The most popular activity with foreign anglers is fishing for taimen, a huge fish of the freshwater salmon family, which can grow up to 1.3 metres long and weigh over 50 kg! A fan of grayling and small mammals, the taimen is fished with a fly and biceps (you need to be able to reel it in!). But beware: this fish is protected, so you'll have to release it back into the water if you manage to catch it. Lenock trout, grayling (Arctic or Altai) and sturgeon are the most frequent catches in Mongolia. As the fish are rarely disturbed by Mongolians, who prefer to hunt, they sometimes grow to impressive sizes. Even Lenock can reach 6 kg! Almost all the country's lakes and rivers offer fish in abundance. As a result, many tourists on a budget or looking for a wilderness vacation choose to fish for food during part of their stay. For more professional anglers, Lake Khövsgöl is a formidable reservoir of fish, as are the Shishkhed (which flows into Lake Tsagaan Nuur), Orkhon and Chuluut rivers. Several agencies organize themed fishing trips. The fishing season runs from mid-July to mid-September.
Get out the paddles!
Kayak and canoe enthusiasts will find plenty to enjoy in Mongolia. From the calm waters of the great northern lakes (Khövsgöl, Therkhiin Tsagaan Nuur...) to the faster currents of the rivers of central and western Mongolia, there's something for every taste and level. These small boats can sometimes be used to reach areas with unique ecosystems.