Practical information : Eating out Réunion
Timetable
You'll always find somewhere to nibble, except perhaps on Sundays, unless you're in a tourist area. Reunionnese eat early, and most restaurants, outside tourist areas, stop serving around 9pm/9.30pm. Very few offer continuous service. Generally speaking, establishments open for lunch and dinner serve from 11am/12pm to 2pm/15pm and from 6pm to 10pm/11pm. Breakfast at the beach is served from 8am, not before. At weekends and during school vacations, remember to make a reservation if you want a table and don't want to go hungry.
Budget & Tips
Carriage in trays costs between €6 and €8, and a little more if you have shrimps, fish or a special recipe. Prices will always be displayed, but if not, ask for them. Some restaurants don't take credit cards, especially in remote areas, so always bring some change or your checkbook.
Bistronomic" restaurants abound, particularly in Saint-Denis and in the west, from Saint-Paul to Saint-Pierre. In this case, you should expect to pay between €20 and €30 for a dish à la carte, and easily between €45 and €60 if you add a starter, dessert and a glass of wine.
The local way
L'américain bouchon gratiné is a must-try, the quintessential Reunionese sandwich, hot and fatty. The recipe? Baguette bread, corks, French fries, cheese (usually a lot of Gruyère) and a choice of sauces (soy, chili, mustard, ketchup). Young people love it. But it's fair to say that a sandwich like this will blow your calorie count through the roof. So eat in moderation. You'll find them at any kiosk or snack truck on the island.
Another very local Réunion speciality is "poulet la route", also known as "poulet poussière", "poulet bitume" or even "poulet mazout". But don't be fooled by these misleading names, for behind them lie excellent grilled chickens, 100% Réunionese, first marinated (the marinade recipes are often kept secret), then grilled in a crapaudine style, on an old-fashioned barbecue (made from an old metal fuel can, hence the name "poulet mazout"). Vendors usually set up by the roadside, emitting a delicious smell of grilled chicken into the air that's hard to resist.