Practical information : Eating out Ionian Islands
Timetable
Lunch is around 2pm, and dinner rarely before 9 or 10pm. But it's not uncommon for an establishment to also serve coffee and snacks from 9am. In summer, restaurateurs and owners of taverns and ouzeries in the most popular tourist areas know they have to keep up with the season, so they are open every day, from morning to night, in continuous service. On average, service lasts 15 hours, sometimes longer, and often closes with the last customer... In Athens and on the islands, some of the more upscale restaurants are only open for dinner in the evening, or have the luxury of closing for one or two days during the week. On the islands, most establishments close between the end of October and Easter. But others - and this is often a guarantee of quality - remain open all year round to satisfy their local clientele.
Budget & Tips
With inflation, restaurant prices have risen slightly. But while restaurants(estiatório) are slightly more expensive than tavernas or ouzeries, eating out is still affordable in Greece and the islands. Unless you go to a trendy or very chic restaurant (in Corfu, for example...), you should expect to pay around 20 euros per person for a full meal, including a carafe of local wine or raki/ouzo. There is one exception: fresh fish, sold by the kilo, is always expensive. To avoid unpleasant surprises at checkout time, choose your fish in the kitchen and ask the price before ordering, as the bill quickly rises. In taverns, dessert (slices of watermelon, plate of halva, cake...) is often offered. Despite the crisis, the Greeks have not abandoned this pleasant tradition. But don't take it for granted: in the most touristy places, you can always wait!
What costs extra
Some taverns and restaurants charge a supplement of around €1 for cutlery and bread, which is not always offered. Water in a carafe is free, but in some of the more upscale restaurants, you'll often be served a bottle of mineral water as standard. It's not a huge charge, but it's worth knowing before you dispute the bill! Finally, when paying, always bring cash, as credit cards are not accepted everywhere. And leave a tip of around 10%.
The local way
Service can take a long time: there's no need to get worked up, but plan ahead and don't wait until you're starving to sit down, especially with children. Also note: dishes arrive as they are being prepared, so don't expect to eat an appetizer first, then a main course. Arriving dishes are shared, and diners often pick from the same dish. Another sign of hospitality: a small dessert or glass of liqueur is often offered at the end of the meal. But in Greece, you'll never be pressured to leave the table or recommend that you do so once your meal is over. Unless you ask for the bill, you'll be left to enjoy your meal, without necessarily clearing the table. And if there are lots of leftovers on the table and you're renting, don't hesitate to ask for a "paqueto" (a "doggy bag") to prolong the experience at home..
To be avoided
Greek cuisine is generous and easy to share. In taverns, avoid ordering one dish per person in the French way. And if you go to a restaurant with Greeks, pay the bill or have the meal offered to you, but avoid counting up what everyone has eaten to pay only for your share. This is not a common practice, if not downright impolite. And don't forget: if you're celebrating a birthday or anniversary at a restaurant during your stay, it's up to you to invite guests, not the other way around!
Kids
Children are king in Greece. The good thing is that they're welcome everywhere and made to feel at home. Here, there's no separation between generations, no attempt to silence noisy children or force them to sit still. Children are invited to sit at the adults' table and run their own show (often with a cell phone), without trying to contain themselves or the adults. The result is a joyous - sometimes noisy! - hubbub. And in the evening, when dinner drags on, they can play in the streets until well after midnight, while their parents quietly finish their ouzo.
Smokers
The law against smoking in public spaces has been in place since 2008, but has never been enforced. Kyriakos Mitsotakis, the new Conservative Prime Minister elected in July 2019, has promised that the law will now be enforced. Since his election, fines have been introduced to make both establishments and customers pay for non-compliance. It's clear that smokers are now spontaneously taking to the terraces.
Tourist traps
Let's just say that, as everywhere else, the best food is rarely found in establishments with a waiter at the entrance or a menu in ten languages...