Classical and opera
It's often said that Amsterdam is a city of musicians rather than composers. This is particularly true of classical music. With Alphons Diepenbrock, Hendrik and Louis Andriessen or Jan Sweelinck as figureheads, the Netherlands has not offered any "major" composers to the history of classical music. But by a fair balance of things, the capital nevertheless retains a special place in the hearts and esteem of music lovers. If you ask them why, they'll probably give you a name: the Concertgebouw. This temple to classical music has built its worldwide reputation on a combination of neo-classical beauty, perfect acoustics and exceptional programming. Above all, it is home to the Royal Netherlands Orchestra, one of the most prestigious in the world, renowned for its dazzling interpretations, and whose list of conductors is dizzying: Mengelberg, Haitink, Chailly, Jansons and Daniele Gatti. What's more, located just a stone's throw from the museum district and the Vondelpark, it's a pleasure to visit.
Classical music lovers agree: you haven't seen the whole of Amsterdam if you haven't heard anything at the Concertgebouw. Lyric art lovers, on the other hand, can find a few wonders in the Muziektheater's program. The only opera house in the Netherlands, this gigantic complex (1,600 seats) with perfect acoustics is one of those buildings that locals love to hate. The reason? Its austere architecture by the "pragmatic modernist" Wilhelm Holzbauer. The Muziektheater is home to "DNO" (De Nederlandse Opera), a company which, under the impetus of Pierre Audi - its audacious artistic director for thirty years - has taken on international stature. A contemporary reinterpretation of the classics, openness to other arts and a strong emphasis on innovation are the three pillars of DNO's staging.
If your stay takes place around mid-August, it would be a shame to miss the Grachten Festival ("Canal Festival"). Every year around the same time, Amsterdam puts classical music in the spotlight with some 250 concerts and celebrations all over the city - including on boats and canal banks - often for very little money (and sometimes for nothing). One of the sweetest ways to enjoy the capital.
Theater and dance
In the common imagination, dance in the Netherlands is a pas de deux between the hyper-contemporary Nederlands Dans Theater in The Hague and the very classical Dutch National Ballet in Amsterdam. If that was once true, it's less and less so. Under the impetus of Ted Brandsen, Artistic Director since 2003, the Dutch National Ballet takes a very modern look at classical works (around two or three ballets a year). The company is now considered one of the top five in the world. This marvel is housed in the Muziektheater, one of Europe's largest and most sumptuous theaters, where you can also enjoy performances by the National Opera. The Dutch avant-garde tradition is omnipresent in the country's theater. A living symbol of this spirit is the Toneelgroep Amsterdam, the equivalent of the Comédie-Française, and its artistic director Ivo van Hove. Internationally renowned, the company is renowned for its innovative (even downright avant-garde) productions of the classical and modern repertoire. It is the official company of the Stadsschouwburg Amsterdam, a magnificent neo-Renaissance building on Leidseplein. Fans of contemporary dance will also find much to enjoy here, as the venue hosts contemporary creations choreographed by major artists (William Forsythe, to name but one). The Netherlands loves cabaret, and it's a great local tradition. To see it, head for the Théâtre Carré, on the banks of the Amstel, where you can also enjoy musicals, concerts, dance and stand-up comedy.
Jazz in Amsterdam
Thanks to the North Sea Jazz Festival, one of Europe's biggest jazz events, held annually in Rotterdam since 1976, the Netherlands has played host to the world's finest in the genre over the past forty years. Emboldened by the contact with these international artists, the Dutch jazz scene has itself been graced with some fine names with solid reputations. These include Misha Mengelberg, a pianist close to Fluxus and a collaborator of Derek Bailey and Eric Dolphy, and drummer Han Bennink, a leading figure in free jazz. Today, Dutch jazz often climbs to the top of the sales charts, driven by great female voices: Caro Emerald, world star, Fay Claassen, multi-award winner or Denise Jannah, signed to Blue Note - the world's most prestigious label.
Amsterdam is by nature a city of jazz. Maybe it's the fog during the day. Or the neon lights reflecting off the cobblestones at night. But Amsterdam's streets exude a gentle spleen that's highly conducive to jazz. It's no coincidence that the capital offers so many places to sample it live. The least intimate, but most impressive, is undoubtedly Het Bimhuis. Opened in 2005 and located in the ultra-contemporary Muziekgebouw complex, this den of all things jazz nevertheless has a soft spot for the avant-garde and improvisation. A more classic option for getting away from the touristy Leidseplein is to head for Jazz Café Alto, the only good address on the street and a guarantee of live jazz (often easy listening). Finally, close to the University, nestles "Engelbewaarder", a cosy little literary café with a view, where you can lose yourself in free jazz and heated chatter.
Pop and rock
When talking about pop in the Netherlands, it's hard not to mention "nederpop". A purely local product - a contraction of Nederland (Netherlands) and "pop" - this movement of the 1960s and 1970s brought groups such as Golden Earring, Shocking Blue and Herman Brood to international prominence. On the rock front, like the rest of Northern Europe, the Netherlands has a rich metal scene. Unsurprisingly, the young Dutch creative scene is booming, with many contemporary artists shining on the international scene. The most obvious example is Altin Gün, an Amsterdam-based "Anatolian pop" band. Hailing from the Turkish diaspora, its members take the great pop and psychedelic rock standards listened to by their parents and grandparents and give them a modern interpretation. But they are far from alone: Rimon, the Dutch Jorja Smith, and De Ambassade, post-punk in the tradition of the cult The Ex, are just a few examples of the hyperactivity of the local scene. Fans are sure to find a concert of this kind during their stay. As a capital city, Amsterdam is a hotbed of live music. Although the city is home to its fair share of institutions, two clearly stand out: the Paradiso and the Melkweg. The former is considered a temple of pop. A landmark of local counter-culture in the 1970s, the Paradiso is still a must-see. A former church whose decor beautifully recounts its past (superb stained glass, vaulted ceilings, etc.), this concert hall presents the best of today's music. Readers of Pitchfork magazine will be delighted. A stone's throw away, across Leidseplein, you'll reach the Melkweg in a flash. A pioneering venue for electronic music (it was the first venue in the country to play house), the Melkweg ("milky way" in French) now plays host to a whole constellation of genres - from jazz and pop to rap and rock'n'roll - with a single constant: quality. More alternative? Amsterdam has at least as many beaten tracks as there are ways off them. Among its many surprising addresses, one is particularly piquant: Het HEM. Located in a former munitions factory in the north-western suburbs, the venue is as eccentric as it is eccentric, hosting the cutting edge of contemporary creation. Visual arts, theater or music, whatever the field, you're sure to witness something astonishing and cheeky.
Whether you're a collector or a vinyl lover, don't forget to browse at Concerto and Rush Hour. The former is the best record shop in town. With some 1,000m² of floor space, it sells gems of all genres, and also has a café section. The second is located not far from the red light district, and is a treasure trove of house, funk and soul.
Electronic music
Like Berlin, Amsterdam is the world capital of techno and other electronic music. The city is home to countless artists and labels, and offers a dense network of good places to enjoy the genre in its natural element: the club. Want to listen to music all night long? Head for Amsterdam Noord. The adventure begins as soon as you board the ferry (15-minute journey, departures from Central Station) bound for NSDM, a former naval district converted into a creative underground village. As soon as you disembark, you're greeted by cranes, graffiti and architecture that has remained entirely industrial. It's austere, intimidating, it's true. But it's here that you'll come across such must-sees as Pllek, an ex-hangar turned bar (and club after dark), with its feet in the sand and eyes in the water. Another planet. Another Amsterdam embodied by the "Garage noord" club. Also located on the north bank of the IJ, this small but arty space hosts pocket parties as intimate as they are underground. We recommend it on your way out of "De Goudfazan", one of the city's hottest eateries. You can find alternative Amsterdam without even leaving the city center. Head north to Vondelpark, where a little nugget is nestled: OT301. A former squat turned artistic platform, OT301 has retained its libertarian spirit - avant-garde programming and free prices - while becoming a staple of Amsterdam's nightlife.
