In southern Italy, facing the bay of Naples, stands a maze of wonderful islands. The most famous is the mythical Capri. With its heart tied to a dizzying relief, its feet planted in the Tyrrhenian Sea and its head with a deep blue sky, always the magic operates, despite the constant flow of tourists from all over the world who follow in procession the guide's ring. The only non volcanic island of the sumptuous Neapolitan Gulf, Capri is sacred, as John-Paul Sartre wrote.
Between jet-set and authenticity, nature and sophistication, Capri is a magical island, steep and nimbée of nostalgia. A pine balcony, a fig of barbarity, lemon and olive trees open on the sea. It breathes an air of eternity. We're going to look there for the dolce vita and the lustre of yesteryear. So take the broad to immerse yourself in a world where water, earth and air only make one…
LEGENDARY PAST
From ancient times, the Roman emperors were already making Capri their delight. Auguste and above all Tiberius erected sumptuous holidays, the most famous and most impressive of all being Villa Jovis, dating from the 334 th century BC, perched atop a hill at meters altitude. From this eagle's nest the eastern promontory of the island, Tiberius led the Roman Empire for ten years, from 27 to 37. C.C.
These ancient good have nourished the fascination that the island has exercised over European elites from the end of the th century. In the th century, the garden island was attended by many personalities, including Henry James, Oscar Wilde, Rainer Maria Rilke, and the writer Curzio Malaparte. Capri then enters literature, transforms itself into a place of romantic culture, and becomes an appointment of an cultivated elite of foreign writers, poets and artists.
The Swedish doctor Axel Munthe restored the charming Villa San Michele, housed at a rocky spur between sky and sea, while Fritz Krupp, heir of prussian steel mills, built a steep path to his villa, as well as an artificial cave in Marina Piccola harbour.
Capri experienced renewed popularity in the late 1930 s, but especially in the years 1950-1960, where it became a popular destination for the international jet set; They include Prince Rainier and Grace Kelly, the Duchess of Windsor, Valentino, Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, Aristotle Onassis, Marisa Berenson, Jackie Kennedy… In 1959, the island was émoi when Hollywood became engoue for Capri. She hosts the film crew of the film that arrived in Naples, led by Melville Shavelson. In the streets, divine actress Sophia Loren, in the arm of Clark Gable, creates the event.
On the French side, the island was made famous by the famous Capri song, it's finished by Hervé Vilard (1965), but also the film Le Contempt de Jean-Luc Godard (1963), and his incredible villa Malaparte, featuring Brigitte Bardot and his famous reply "You love my buttocks? '.
From the years 1970-1980, this dolce vita is hardly compromised by mass tourism and marketing… Capri remains a fascinating mystery and an indispensable rendezvous for the «happy few» that ensures the myth of the myth. While the artistic and literary myth of Capri tends to diminish in the face of tourism flows, intellectual or social references remain.
AN ISLAND, TWO FACES
Unlike the idea received, the name "Capri" has nothing to do with goats, but comes from the Greek kapros, wild boar, animal that once pullulait on the island. With its six kilometres long in three, Capri is a small islet of limestone rocks with modest dimensions, but almost everything separates its two agglomerations.
The "capital", Capri, is a small town of 7 000 inhabitants, built on the narrowest isthmus of the island, opening both on the south coast with the port of Marina Piccola and the north coast with that of Marina Grande, turned to the Gulf of Naples. Capri is famous for its lime-whitewashed houses, luxury shops, four-star hotels, palaces, a little overrated atmosphere and a little Umberto I square (the true centre of the island, more famous under the name "Piazzetta"), the place where it is good to be able to show up! For example, at the time of the aperitif, on the terrace of its cafés, the naked torso point, the holding of plagiste or folding on a bathing suit. You would think… in Milan! Previously defined as the «small theatre in the world», Piazzetta has seen itself as the world's most prestigious worldly milieu of literature, film, fashion and politics. A ransom of glory, the small town of Capri is now invaded by tourists; at the height of the summer, up to 20 000 visitors arrive every day.
If Capri is a little snob, his voisine neighbor, Anacapri, offers more authenticity and sweetness to live Italian. More quiet, this beautiful village was also the refuge of many writers (Colette, Moravia or Graham Greene) and remains alive twelve months a year. Perched on the upper part of the island, it offers an old centre with shady streets, with walls hidden from gardens where laughter of children is echoed, as well as beautiful monuments, such as the small Baroque Church San Michele famous for its pavement entirely covered by majolica - a masterpiece of Leonardo Chiajese. It is also in Anacapri's campaign that some of the most beautiful houses nest, including the ancient Roman tower renovated by Diego Della Valle. From the top of its 589 metres, Mount Solaro, the apex of the island, dominates the city, and at its foot the famous Blue Cave awaits you. Anacapri is recommended for those who wish to move peacefully and stay at more reasonable prices.
So rather a jet-set atmosphere or discovery of a wild island full of charm? In any case, Capri will seduce fans of socializing and dolce-vita, but also conquer the hearts of adventurers who will discover their trails in wilderness.
BREATHTAKING PANORAMAS
Several walks, not well-travelled even though the sea, are recommended to appreciate the architecture and history of the island. We have to take his time to cross these 1 000 hectares of nature and culture, and to explore what Pablo Neruda called "Capri spacious, where you only get to the end of a long pilgrimage… '.
- Belvedere di Punta Cannone: by taking the Via Madre Serafina from Capri, you can climb under the pines to the Cannone lookout, situated on the cliff and only a few minutes from the hustle and bustle of the city centre. This magical view makes it possible to admire the sea that stretches out of sight, the small white houses agrippées to the rock, and the famous Stroll, three huge sharp pitfalls that arise from the sea. These enigmatic rocks of rocks were spawned by secular erosion of the waters, forming cracks, cavities and beautiful natural arches.
- Giardini di Augusto: on the heights of the island, the magnificent gardens of Augustus, structured in a series of flowery terraces overlooking the sea, also offer an unforgettable view of Mount Solaro, the bay of Marina Piccola and winding Via Krupp, hung in tight laces on the flank of the mountain.
- Mount Solaro: from Piazza Vittoria to Anacapri, it is possible to reach the highest point of the island, Mount Solaro (589 meters altitude), a single-wheel lift (the most courageous, or those who have the vertigo, to go on foot!). From its summit, there is a magnificent panorama over all Capri, but also over the bay of Naples, Vesuvius and the Amalfi coast.
- La: this ancient Roman path, bordered by white houses and citrus orchards, links the heights of Mount Solaro to Anacapri. Overlooking the Gulf of Naples and the island of Ischia, this road leads to the Belvédère gazebo, sheltered by pine trees, where you can admire the Shredded falaise cliff and the lighthouse of Punta Quinny.
And not to come to Capri without flying for a sea walk, visit the famous green grotto (grotta Verde) and its emerald colour, the ever-steeper north coast with its imposing rocks in lead, and the majestic ruins of the Tiberius baths (bagni di Tiberio). Coves, coves, natural arches, steep and steep slopes, high cliffs or large green bays, Capri must be seen on the sea side.
You probably heard everything about it, the best like the worst… But, as you will have understood, Capri, the pearl of the Neapolitan Gulf, is slowly asleep, far from the frenzy of the long-lived tourists.
CAPRI, LA PULLED
The jet-set, as well as large industrialists and many intellectuals, love this rock that is both rough and refined, user-friendly and superficial. It looks like Portofino or Saint-Tropez! For in Capri, we enter a party of senses: Turquoise blue sea, a thousand flowers, steep cliffs, magical coves, breathtaking panoramas, citrus aromas, unforgettable sunsets… Only the crowd, camera cameras, is a little uncomfortable. The curious ones arrive thousands every day, transforming the little town of Capri into Giant Montmartre.
Here we would like solitude that naturally incites contemplation. This calm that can be enjoyed in the morning or in the evening, when the last boats go back to the coast (this is why we advise you to stay at least one night on the island).
A victim of its charm, this very tourist land reserves some inconvenience that it is best to know before its stay. For the sake of transparency, we consider it important to address, in particular, the "experience" of the Blue Cave (grotta Azzurra), an astonishing natural cave to the magnificent light games of light, very popular with the Japanese, but which can prove bitter without prior recommendations. So it's better to get there early in the morning, because the wait can lie two hours in the afternoon, under a sun of lead. The cave is magnificent, with blue and clear waters, but you have to pay the high price (count 15 € per person for the boat journey from Marina Grande, € 14 per person for access to the cave in the boat, plus the tip demanded loud and strong by the rowers). Mandatory liquid! The visit lasts in everything and for five minutes. Now you know everything!
MOORISH STYLE AND ISLAND CRAFT
An inspiring muse, the island gave birth to a chic and casual dress style from local crafts: coral collars, sandales sandals and pants. Inspired by many fashion designers, the Capri style evokes a charming elegance that has crossed decades. For a fashionable whim, you will find in the shopping streets of Capri numerous coral jewellery shops, Mediterranean red gold, as well as plenty of shops with famous pirate trousers, launched at the end of the 1940 s by Lennart's German designer Sonja. Then direction Anacapri, among the charismatic Antonio Viva, to find the pair of handmade handmade leather sandals.
Another authentic house with a history of history deserves the detour, the Créateur perfume creator. Legend tells that in 1380, the predecessor father of the convent Saint-Jacques (certosa di San Giacomo) created water perfumed with the most beautiful flowers of the island to welcome Queen Giovanna d'Angioedema. Today, tradition continues, the production methods are the same as those used by the chartreux brothers, from high-quality natural raw materials. The fragrances of rosemary, gathered on Mount Solaro, are intended for men, while the wild giroflé carnation forms the basis for female products.
The island also abounds with beautiful ceramics, with geometric motifs or figurative representations, which cultivate fantasy and detail. Some craftsmen still work in the art of ceramics, painted by hand.
AND ON THE PLATE?
Linked to both maritime and island traditions, Capri gastronomy is rich, tasty and sip of sun. Nevertheless, we must be able to find a way between the regrettable "jokes", where one serves an international menu, and the real restaurants of traditional cuisine.
By entering, two specialties to put you in appetite: The. insalata, the well-known tomato salad, with an incomparable taste, mozzarelle with bufflonne and basil milk, olive oil, and ravioli stuffed with cheese, tomatoes and sage. Among the typical dishes, lovers of Mediterranean flavours are the pasta aumm pasta (pâtes pasta, tomatoes and mozzarelle mozzarelle), chiummenzana (spaghetti, olive oil, garlic, pepper, basil and oregano), pickled anchovies, stuffed squid, or cooked chicken in a terracotta brick. Let us not forget caprese cheese, ricotta cheese and mozzarelle. No smooth Italian feast: on the menu, the caprese torta, black chocolate cake and almonds, caprilù, lemon paste, or lemon doughnuts doughnuts. You will take a limoncello glass to finish! The lemon liqueur was born in Capri!
when when
Except if you like the bathing baths, Capri is not recommended in the high season. To enjoy its charm to its fair extent, prefer the months from April to June and from September to October. The island's climate is known to be very gentle and sunny all year round, suitable for beautiful walks.
DURATION
Pity that most tourists spend only one day in Capri. To feel the special atmosphere of the island and discover the maquis of secret paths, it is advisable to stay at least one night.
PUBLIC
The island satisfies jet-set rollers as well as nature lovers. If the traveller is enthusiastic about walking and beautiful views, Capri is a great place (know that the steep streets can only reveal their secrets to the most valiant ones). Shopping enthusiasts will also find their happiness, between brand shops and small shops of artisans. However, bathing enthusiasts will be a little disappointed because the beaches are rare in Capri, and the most beautiful coves are accessible only by boat. This makes it a destination that is not conducive to families.
BUDGET
The island that the world is arrache is expensive, so to speak. Destination crested, Capri is demanding budget level. A Café coffee will cost you 6 €. Out of season you can find rooms from 65 €, but prices soar in season. To save his wallet, we recommend to sleep in Anacapri, where there are many small pensions, bed and breakfasts and cheap accommodation. Don't seek camping, it's forbidden!
MOVING
- Upon arrival: the boats berth in the main port of Marina Grande. From here, you can go to Capri city Centre within 10 minutes of bus or five minutes of funicular, and to Anacapri in 2 minutes bus (€ the simple ticket between Capri and Anacapri, € per person the ticket day).
- On-site: Capri is a photogenic but winding island full of tiny and steep roads. During the high season it is forbidden for tourists to rent a car, and the scooter rental is advised to the experienced. We travel in a minibus (which is a real adventure on their own), by taxi (all convertibles in the retro style, unique in Capri!) or on foot.
USEFUL
-> OFFICE OF TOURISM
Three tourist information centres are distributed on the island: on the Piazzetta, the Marina Grande and Anacapri harbour.www.capritourism.com
-> MARITIME LINKS
The island is served by ferry or hydrofoil from Naples, Sorrento or Amalfi by several companies, including MOLO and Caremar.
Although small, sometimes it takes some time to reach Marina Grande Harbour; take into account when you have to take the ferry back!
