At the foot of the rock of Granville is a maritime city that has always lived from the sea. It is the existence of this upper town and of numerous holiday resorts that have given this Norman town its nickname of "Monaco of the North". But Granville is also the birthplace of privateers with glorious destinies, such as the minister Pléville Le Pelley, then Admiral Guepratte, hero of the Dardanelles. Finally, the first shellfish port of France keeps the memory of the great fishing on the banks of Newfoundland. A lively city in summer and winter, accessible by train from Paris, and labeled "European City of Sport in 2023", the life of the city is punctuated by several major events, including its carnival, in February, the largest in the region and classified by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage of humanity (which will take place between February 17 and 21 this year) and the centenary of the splendid Marité rig. A city to discover absolutely.
Attacking the Upper Town!
In Granville, the ramparts surrounding the Upper Town are a testimony to its history: the presence of the English in the 15th century and their rout before Louis d'Estouville, the Revolution and then the Second World War.
If the visit of the Haute-Ville is deserved, you cannot pass by Granville without escaping, and for good reason: the place is magical. On foot, the ascent allows an unobstructed view of the port, and it is only at the top that the Chausey archipelago will appear before your eyes, as well as the immensity of the English Channel, while at your feet you will see the delightful 1930s casino. The Haute-Ville, built of granite stone, is rich in history, and these fortifications bear witness to this history: at right angles to the streets of Saint-Jean and Notre-Dame, the alleys allowed the defenders to pass quickly from one side of the city to the other. But before that, you have to pass under the drawbridge and the Great Gate, built around 1630. By strolling from the rue du Marché-au-Pain to the rue du Marché-au-Cuir, you will understand the economic vitality of this small fortified city. If the museum of Old Granville has taken place in the former King's Lodging House, one should not miss stopping at 45 rue Saint-Jean and admiring the beautiful granite facade of the Ganne-Destouches hotel, of which Barbey d'Aurevilly immortalized the famous Chouan arrested here in his novel Le Chevalier Destouches. History, panorama, literature: it's more than a walk that awaits you here, and you'll understand its nickname of Monaco of the North as you climb the Haute-Ville. Not for the presence of skyscrapers of course, but because of this old city, hardly accessible and perched on its promontory. It is really difficult not to succumb to its charm!
Granville, the birthplace of Christian Dior
But in the English Channel,Granville is also the birthplace of the famous fashion designer Christian Dior. So what could be more natural than to dedicate a museum to him? The museum is only open during its sublime temporary exhibitions. After the treasures of the collection, which listed 30 years of acquisitions, an exhibition that was a huge success with thousands of visits, after the event entitled "Dior Hats" in 2022, the museum should enchant us again from the approach of summer 2023, with three new dresses to come. This one is located in the designer's childhood home, acquired by his parents in 1906 and then by the city in 1932, now dedicated to celebrating the local boy, on the heights of the city. Called "Villa Les Rhumbs", this one, of bright pink color, is sublime. The magnificent garden, the work of Christian Dior's mother, has been restored to its original state. Olfactory terminals allow visitors to discover the different perfumes of the House of Dior. The ephemeral tea room, with garden furniture designed by the artist, is an additional invitation to contemplation. Regular guided tours, exhibitions and readings make this place a cultural space not to be missed in Granville. A tea room allows you to relax. Finally, note that the place is labeled Museum of France, and that the view from the place is exceptional. It is indeed a must-see of the city, which deserves more than a detour: a well-prepared visit, planned and with, if possible, tickets booked in advance, so as not to be caught unprepared in high season.
Then, you can go to the Richard Anacreon Museum of Modern Art. This journalist, well known to the Parisian public before the Second World War, was born in Granville. At the time, following the advice of his friends Colette, Braque, Picasso, Cocteau, Valéry or Claudel, he opened his bookstore, "L'Originale", in the Latin Quarter. A few years before his death, he donated his private collection of photos, paintings, autographs and first editions to the city, which is now on display in the beautiful museum in the Upper Town that bears his name.
The Chausey Islands, an invigorating sea trip
These islands are the jewels of Granville! Just 15 km from the Pointe du Roc de Granville, the commune to which it is administratively attached, the Chausey Islands archipelago is made up of 52 islets, about 30 of which are covered with vegetation. The Grande Île is the main land of the archipelago, with a length of one kilometer. There is an old fort from the 16th century, the lighthouse of the Pointe de la Tour (1847), which signals the Sound of Chausey and houses the island's power station, and the fort from 1866. It is the only inhabited island of the archipelago. Otherwise, the turquoise waters are good for swimming in summer, and the largest of these islands have a few houses, isolated from everything. Thus is Chausey, which also has a restaurant and a hotel, very popular: an unparalleled space, of unprecedented beauty and which can be accessed via various boats from the Monaco du Nord. A wildlife and floral paradise, Chausey is a little piece of land to be discovered absolutely!
The Carnival of Granville, an unmissable getaway
The Carnival is an unmissable event that takes place in the heart of the corsair city for several days every year. Originally, nearly 150 years ago, this event celebrated the departure of sailors who went to fish cod in Newfoundland near the Canadian coast. Such an event deserves to be consecrated, and not half, since it is Unesco that has classified the Granville carnival as an intangible cultural heritage of humanity. But it was necessary to honor the reputation of the largest carnival in the region! This year, the 149th edition will take place from February 17 to 21. Each day has its theme. On Friday evening, it's time for music, with concerts, while the float "builders" put the finishing touches on the floats that will be paraded the next day. For the youngest, the children's ball on Saturday afternoon will precede the fanfares of the evening. And Sunday will be under the sign of the cavalcades: the "big one" in the afternoon, gathering thousands of people, and the bright one in the evening. On Monday and Tuesday, dances, parades, activities and entertainment of all kinds will punctuate the life of the Norman city. An event not to be missed and the opportunity of a long family weekend full of color. Mark your calendars!
Smart info
When is it? The arrival of the warm weather is the ideal time to consider this little Normandy getaway. But to attend this year's carnival, head to the seaside resort between February 17 and 21, 2023.
How to get there. To get to Granville, you can take the train, the bus or the car.
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