ÉGLISES BYZANTINES DE NAXOS

The island of Naxos is home to a dozen small Byzantine churches of inestimable historical value, since they date from before the arrival of the Venetians (1207). Among them, four are particularly worth a visit and allow you to explore the centre of the island. If they are closed, ask around if anyone has the key.

Aghios Mamas. 5.7 kilometers southeast of Chora on the road to Sangri, after the village of Galanado, at the second hairpin bend, leave the main road and turn left. This 9th century church was the cathedral of Naxos, before being converted into a Catholic church with the arrival of the Venetians in 1207. It is currently being restored and contains beautiful frescoes. It is closed to the public, but the site offers a beautiful view of the surrounding landscape.

Aghios Nikolaos. 11 kilometers southeast of Chora, 400 meters south of Sangri. This very simple church probably dates from the 10th century. Its walls are covered with frescoes from the Venetian period, but some decorative elements from the 11th and 12th centuries remain.

Panaghia Drossiani. 16 kilometres from Chora, in the centre of the island, just south of the village of Moni. The church of Our Lady of the Rose is the oldest on the island and one of the oldest in Greece, dating from the^5th or 7th century. It was built in the fifth or seventh century. It is a small church (19.4 x 8 metres) and belonged to an important monastery. Its strange name comes, according to legend, from the fact that its walls begin to leak water when the village of Moni is in danger. Surmounted by a more recent facade, it is distinguished by its round shapes and its three domed roofs. Inside, the fresco representing the Virgin, damaged by humidity, has survived the two iconoclastic crises that shook the Byzantine Empire in the 8th and 9th centuries. The wooden iconostasis behind the more recent marble one is also noteworthy. The church is usually open to visitors during the day with a candle and postcard stand.

Panaghia Protothronos. In Kato Potamia, 9 kilometres from Chora. Our Lady before the Throne does not let anything show with its ordinary exterior. It was remodeled by the Venetians and whitewashed. It is one of the oldest churches on the island and contains frescoes from the 9th to the 13th century. It is usually open in the morning, as is the small adjoining Byzantine museum.