Discover Val-D'Oise : Special folder

One meander among many

Between Paris and its estuary, the Seine meanders in countless ways, becoming increasingly frequent as it approaches the capital. The Val Parisis conurbation is no exception to the rule: for some 8 kilometers, the river's banks curve around Cormeilles-en-Parisis, La Frette-sur-Seine and Herblay-sur-Seine. If you're only twenty kilometers from Paris as the crow flies, the winding route makes the distance by river much greater: from kilometer zero, located at the Parisian port of l'Arsenal (near Place de la Bastille), the Seine stretches over 60 kilometers to here. Located between the Bougival river stop and the downstream port of Conflans-Sainte-Honorine, this stretch of river sees dozens of barges pass through every day, linking the river port of Gennevilliers (France's largest) with the ports of Rouen and Le Havre, in a carefully managed ballet that supplies the Paris region. Although there are no industrial port facilities here, the riverbanks are residential and offer a magnificent promenade.

From Cormeilles to Herblay

Although the banks of Cormeilles-en-Parisis are the least extensive, they are currently uninhabited, although this situation is not likely to last. The future Seine Parisii district is being built here (see below). Continuing northwards, we come to La Frette-sur-Seine. A land of Impressionist painters from the 19th to the early 20th century, its landscapes have remained unchanged. Following the banks from south to north, you pass through a vast area dedicated to sports and leisure, before following the Quai de Seine. Attractive houses line the banks, which can be enjoyed by pedestrians and cyclists alike. A few permanent residents have chosen to live on the barges moored here. Nicknamed "The Pearl of the Val d'Oise", La Frette-sur-Seine is resolutely river-oriented. There's a sailing club and a landing stage for cruise ships. The town's tourist vocation is asserting itself, but local life is no less intense in fine weather along the river. Restaurants and "guinguettes" open their terraces, sometimes right down to the quays, which have undergone an attractive refurbishment. Continuing north, you come to Herblay-sur-Seine. It's no accident that the town's name has referred to the river only since 2018: it's a clear indication that the town, also known for its shopping areas a few kilometers away, is first and foremost a city whose river aspect deserves to be known. The Quai de Paris is succeeded here by the Quai du Génie, in an environment similar to the one you discovered at La Frette-sur-Seine. Here, too, the riverbanks have been largely landscaped, and you can take a break on one of the many benches along the way. Once you reach the Maison du Passeur, a pretty ochre-coloured building that houses a charming restaurant, you can take a break from your journey. Here, too, summers are lively. Further along, the residential character of the quays becomes more pronounced, and the tranquility of the area is total - barely disturbed by the activity of the town's yacht club, which offers a wide range of activities, from sailing to water skiing. The Quai du Génie is followed by the Quai de Gaillon, and then the towpath: houses become rarer, and natural spaces take over on both banks. Opposite you, the Île d'Herblay (see below). Last but not least, the banks of the Seine are an integral part of the "La Seine à vélo" cycling itinerary. The latter, which links the capital to the estuary, runs as far as Rouen, where it splits into two routes: the first to Le Havre on the right bank, the second to Deauville on the left bank. On the territory of the Val Parisis conurbation - which is logically stipulated among the points of interest - the linear is very easy for cyclists. Many cyclists are content to cycle only the latter, and rightly so!

Impressionist painters

Pontoise is often referred to as the main place of inspiration for Impressionist painters, but this would be to overlook the banks of the Seine, which also left their mark on this school of painting by virtue of the many works produced here. Nature, the Seine and the reflections of the sky in the river were all artistic possibilities, well grasped by great names. Indeed, it was in the 1840s that painters left their Parisian studios to paint landscapes in total immersion with nature. The opening of a rail network putting the area only a few dozen minutes from the capital, making travel much more efficient, gave the disciples of the Barbizon school the opportunity to take to the great outdoors. This is how Diaz, Daubigny, Pissarro, Corot and Rousseau - to name but a few - sublimated spaces, some of which have remained virtually unchanged. As you stroll along the banks of the Seine near La Frette, you'll have the opportunity to discover the painters' itineraries. You'll be able to admire some 15 reproductions of the works in the exact locations where they were created: cultural stops which, beyond the purely aesthetic aspect of the works, make you even more aware of the beauty of the places you're visiting. At the same time, a few kilometers further inland from Cormeilles-en-Parisis, you'll discover a beautiful urban walk dedicated to this artistic movement: called the Impressionist Walk, it can be reached via Rue Auguste Renoir.

Ferry boats

There are two of them, and they allow you to quickly reach the opposite bank of the Seine in a fluvial and poetic interlude: the two ferry boats at Herblay-sur-Seine and La Frette-sur-Seine are open in fine weather. The landing stage for the first is on the right bank, near the ferryman's house, and leads to the Jardins d'Herblay, from where you can walk along the riverbank in a rural setting. The second, at La Frette, takes you aboard at the pontoon located at 39, quai de la Seine, and joins the other bank in just a few moments: here, no housing, just nature and you. Note that you can take the first ferry and return with the second, as long as you take note of the timetable! Both ferries operate in fine weather (many people take their picnics to lunch in the sun on the opposite banks), and are entirely free of charge. Accessible only to pedestrians (pets are allowed), they offer you more than just a river crossing: they give you the chance to admire the area from a different point of view: the hillsides are yours to explore, and that's the best way to see them.

Herblay Island

It seems a little mysterious, and will remain so: it's at Herblay-sur-Seine, in the last few hectometres before reaching Conflans-Sainte-Honorine, that you can discover the Ile d'Herblay. If it's not immediately obvious from the right bank that this is an island, it's because it's separated from the left bank by an arm of the Seine that's hard to see. And yet it's an island in its own right, with no bridge linking it to either bank. Covering an area of 11 hectares, it is untouched by construction or human visitors. In fact, it's a biodiversity sanctuary where the slightest human intervention is strictly limited. Here, the public authorities have chosen to create an ecosystem of ponds and channels, before allowing nature to continue its development. In terms of flora, more than 100 plant species, some very rare, grow here. The Perfoliate pondweed, for example, is one of the aquatic plants that can only be found in exceptional circumstances, and it feels right at home here! At the same time, almost 40 species of birds live here, from cormorants and kingfishers to herons and gulls. It's not for nothing that the island is nicknamed "Bird Island".

Seine Parisii: from wasteland to city

The Seine Parisii project is one of the most important development projects in the region, covering the entire Cormeilles-en-Parisis riverbank. It is gradually taking shape, and is set to profoundly change the area. The former Lafarge cement plant, 600 meters long and 200 meters wide, is gradually giving way to a district in its own right. Called Seine Parisii, it will feature a 110-berth marina (similar to the one built at Port-Cergy), shops and restaurants, 750 housing units and 4 hectares of green space. This real piece of town, resolutely turned towards the river, will face the Maisons-Laffitte racecourse. While the choice of traditional architecture has been made here, the district will be separated from La Frette-sur-Seine by several hundred metres of green spaces and sports facilities, creating a gentle transition between the modernity of the future district and the country aspect of its neighbor.