Practical information : Eating out Argentina
Timetable
Whether it is in winter or summer, the catering hours vary as they do all over the world. In urban centres, restaurants often have fixed hours and do not offer continuous service, so you can have lunch from 12:00 to 3:00 pm and dinner from 8:00 to 11:00 pm. In Buenos Aires you can eat at almost any time of the day or night. There's no need to show up too early, as most of the restaurants don't open until 9pm. Most of the time the kitchen can then be served until 1am! In certain regions of Patagonia, in El Chaltén or Ushuaia for example, some establishments close their doors in winter and only reopen in high season: in some towns you will sometimes have no choice, only one address will be ready to welcome you. You should also know that for dinner, restaurants never fill up before 8pm, especially in Bariloche where raclette and fondue machines only start to heat up after 10pm.
Budget & Tips
For breakfast, confiterías and cafés are the best choice. Some offer fixed-price formulas(media luna, one coffee, one orange juice). For lunch, quick menus such as menú ejecutivo are recommended. It will then be easier to devote a substantial part of your budget to the "good restaurants", which are all the more enjoyable to frequent in the evening. It's easy to cut back on your restaurant budget, as long as you're not too fussy about your diet: pizzas, hot dogs, empanadas or creamy pasta dishes, cheap dishes often rhyme with good calorie intake! However, you'll often manage for less than 10 euros and leave with a full stomach. The other option is to go to the supermarkets and do your own shopping, so you can prepare your own meals if your accommodation has a kitchen or if you have a van. Upscale restaurants often offer à la carte dishes, as menus are not commonplace. Venison, wild boar, trout, salmon or crab - local products often demand a price tag, but this is still reasonable compared to the European market: expect to pay around 15 or 20 euros for a dish. In town, all forms of payment are accepted, but in more remote areas, the bill is usually paid in cash. However, if a credit card is accepted, you'll have to pay a small additional fee. Good to know: some restaurants offer a 10% discount for cash payments. If you've bitten off more than you can chew, you'll be pleased to know that even if the practice is still not widespread, it's not at all frowned upon to ask for a doggy-bag. It's a great way to save money for the next day's meal! Finally, if you book a restaurant online on certain sites, you can get discounts of up to 40% when you pay the bill, as in some establishments in Paris.
What costs extra
In Argentina, the IVA is the equivalent of our VAT. It is set at 19% in Chile and 21% in Argentina. It's also a good idea to leave a tip (around 10% of the bill), even if it's not compulsory. Unaccustomed to this practice, Europeans, and especially the French, find it hard to play the game, despite the fact that it's a very local reflex that's firmly rooted in the local mentality. Finally, a minimum of 5% of the final score is required. Very often, the cubierto, or tableware, is not included in the bill. It ranges from AR$350 to AR$450 per person. A fairly common Hispanic practice.
The local way
Of course, there's nothing more local than eating an asado prepared in the open air, in full respect of Argentine know-how. It's great to be a meat-eater in Argentina, as vegetarians aren't exactly a dime a dozen..
Kids
Your children are welcome in the majority of restaurants, with the exception of certain top-of-the-range addresses which, promising calm and privacy, do not allow children under 18 to eat there. Finally, you should know that several restaurants offer a menu specially concocted for them.
Smokers
Smoking is not permitted in restaurants, although some terraces are sometimes equipped for smokers.
Tourist traps
In Buenos Aires, it is advisable to avoid tangotheque restaurants which, with rare exceptions, are very expensive and always disappointing. Off the beaten track, when the crowd dissipates, it is rare to find yourself in front of tourist attractions, but like any big capital that respects itself Buenos Aires (but this is also the case in Salta for example) is full of restaurants far too expensive for the quality offered. Usually you'll come across a few people in front of the restaurant or on the pavement, who will try to get you in, offering you endlessly extending menus and dish options: that's where you have to be wary! A menu offering dozens and dozens of dishes often announces a cuisine that is not homemade. A short menu is a sign of the quality and freshness of the products. Finally, beware, especially in Buenos Aires, where some restaurants are a must with pickpockets: while you are well seated at your table, the restaurant lets in clever people who will discreetly get rid of your bags.