Practical information : Eating out Russia
Timetable
The catering sector is only loosely regulated in Russia and most establishments stay open very late, often until midnight, even for classic restaurants. There is also the possibility of being served at any time of the day. On the other hand, the opening is also a little later, on the 11 o'clock shots. Thus, to drink a coffee in the morning, you will have to go to a dedicated coffee shop rather than the local bistro.
Budget & Tips
While the rouble signage can be misleading, prices in Moscow and St. Petersburg cafés and restaurants are now close to those in major French cities. So you have to be quite careful in your choice of establishment, because the quality is not always there. The best plan is the stolovayas (столовая), those Soviet canteens that resisted the change of regime and are still popular. They can be found everywhere, often under the name "Stolovaya No. 1". Without being unbelievable, the food is nutritious and above all, traditional: breaded chops po-Kievksi, gretchka, borsch, etc.. You can find all the classics of Russian popular cuisine at unbeatable prices in an authentic atmosphere.
What costs extra
The prices displayed on the menu are inclusive of tax, so no bad surprises on the bill! However, it is advisable to leave a tip.
The local way
Treat yourself at breakfast by stuffing yourself with syrniki, these delicious little doughnuts filled with fromage frais and lightly sprinkled with icing sugar, with red fruit jam.
Fill up on pirojki by stopping by the bakery or at a kiosk in the street or the subway. These small filled pasta (with cabbage, potatoes, meat, tvorog, jam) are the best remedy against the small peck!
Late at night, get a boost of energy by biting into a shawarma when leaving a nightclub. This is the cleanly post-Soviet version of the kebab or doner and the best can be found in shops run by Central Asian or Azerbaijani nationals. As working conditions are particularly difficult in Russia, they are almost automatically open at night.
And of course, throughout the day, you can stuff yourself with the unmistakable konfety, those sweets wrapped in colourful paper that are always served with tea and that you'll see lying around on display racks absolutely everywhere!
To be avoided
Of course, the American fast-food restaurants present on every street corner (prefer the Russian version, the Teremok)
The big à la carte restaurants far too diverse. It is a specialty of contemporary Russia: to meet the desire of the population elsewhere, many restaurants have made their menu a real trip around the world. You can find a mixture of borscht, sushi (Russian-style, with cottage cheese and ham), pizzas, hamburgers, etc.. Generally, this kind of establishment (very widespread) is to be avoided because the quality of the most "exotic" dishes is not really there.
Kids
They're more than welcome! Most restaurants have seating and menus designed especially for them.
Smokers
Smoking is not allowed inside restaurants in Russia, but it is still possible to smoke on the terraces. Restaurants that do not have an ashtray in front of their front door always have one. Exceptionally, some terraces may be declared non-smoking (such as those on Baumanna Street in Kazan), but this is very rare.
Tourist traps
In the most touristy areas, prices are affected and it is worth taking a little comparative tour before settling in. In general it is better to consider with caution anything that is too central, too bright and too colourful!