First aid glossary
Often referred to as a temple, the Thai wat is actually a much larger complex encompassing temples, monasteries, schools, offices, housing... Its layout, always the same, is a symbolic reproduction of the cosmic universe celebrated in Buddhism. It is surrounded by two enclosures symbolizing the separation of the sacred from the profane. The outer enclosure houses the functional buildings. The inner enclosure surrounds the phuttawat, the main space of the temple. At the center of this space is the bôt or ubosot, the sacred area reserved for the religious, where ordination ceremonies take place. Facing east, this space houses the monastery's main Buddha. The bai sema, 8 stone markers often engraved with plant motifs, delimit this sacred area. The sanctuary is rectangular, elevated and surrounded by a colonnade. It is protected by a multi-level roof topped by a spire. The wihan or vihara, a columned hall where the faithful gather, has the same floor plan as the bôt, but is not marked by any boundary markers. The mondop, with its square floor plan, houses the sacred texts and objects of worship. The ho trai is the library. It is often built in the middle of a pond or on a platform to keep pests away from the precious manuscripts. The sala are the resting pavilions that line the wat. Isolated by a wall, the sanghawat houses the pavilions reserved for the monks. But if you had to choose just one word, it would be the chedi, the ultimate symbol of Buddhism. Inherited from the Indian stupa, the chedi is originally a mound housing the remains of a high-ranking deceased person. According to legend, Buddha's ashes were spread over 8 stupas, which explains the symbolic significance of the chedi. The Thai chedi has gradually lost its original mound-like appearance in favor of a more slender silhouette. It usually takes the form of a hemispherical dome or bell surmounted by a ringed mast crowned by several parasols representing the different stages leading to Nirvana. The chedi houses the relics of an important figure and often presides over the construction of the surrounding wat.
In the footsteps of the great kingdoms
The town of Phetchaburi takes us back to the splendor of the Khmer Empire. Wat Kamphaeng Laeng is a superb example of this style, still very much influenced by Hinduism. The prang or sanctuary tower is the star feature. This stepped pyramidal structure, usually in sandstone or laterite, represents Mount Meru, the home of the Hindu gods, which is why the temples are nicknamed "mountain temples". Nakhon Si Thammarat was vassal to the kingdoms of Sukhothai and above all Ayutthaya, which marked the birth of true Thai art. The prangs inherited from the Khmers grew taller and taller, while the arrows on the chedi became sharper and sharper. Reflecting the glory of the kingdom, the wihan 's roofs grew higher and higher, with an abundance of stucco and gilded decoration. Not to be missed: Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan with its superb 77 m-high white chedi crowned by a golden spire. Alongside those of the great Thai kingdoms, foreign influences left their mark on southern Thailand. Chinese traders were numerous, attracted by the tin mines and rubber plantations of Phuket-Ville and the precious stones of Chanthaburi. Many Chinese influences can be seen in the elegant pagoda-like roofs, in the art of decoration and color, in the use of mythical and protective figures in ceramic and porcelain on the roofs, but also in the very functional commercial architecture of the famous shophouses, with the first floor occupied by a store and the1st floor by living quarters. This architecture was also blended with influences brought in by Portuguese merchants. White facades embellished with floral motifs and stucco and wood decorations, cornices and porches adorned with polychrome earthenware, elegant shutters... These Sino-Portuguese houses have an irresistible charm. This blend of genres has also given rise to a dialogue between Taoist sanctuaries and Catholic buildings. Chanthaburi's Notre-Dame de l'Immaculée Conception cathedral is one of the most famous, with its beautiful teak ceiling, superb stained glass windows and slender ribbed vaults. But if you want to step back in time, the easiest way is to visit Ancient City. The brainchild of an extravagant billionaire, this park reconstructs hundreds of historic monuments according to a map of the country... so every building is perfectly in its place!
Splendor of Rattanakosin
1782. In a meander of the Chao Phraya, engineers dug a canal to create an island on which to build the fortified royal city. This island is Rattanakosin. This city is Bangkok. Canals served as ramparts, while a defensive wall with 14 towers was erected on the edge of the city. The octagonal brick and stucco silhouette of Phra Sumen Fort hints at what these mighty fortifications once stood for. Before it acquired its first paved streets in 1836, Bangkok was above all a water city that developed along the khlongs, canals created to support the rising waters of the monsoon season and stretching some 350 km in length. In the 18th and 19th centuries, major works were carried out to conquer more and more land. As soon as the city was founded, the royal authorities had their temples and palaces built on the island, the cradle of the new kingdom. The objective was clear: to restore the splendor of Ayutthaya and perpetuate tradition. Thus, the first buildings constructed were essentially replicas of monuments from the former capital. Gradually, however, Bangkok sought to surpass its model by creating its own distinctive style, a blend of Asian and Western influences, particularly from the 1850s onwards. This is why the "Rattanakosin style" is also known as the "Bangkok style". This blend of styles is all the more interesting in that it bears witness to an approach that is unique in Southeast Asia. Unlike its neighbors, Thailand was never colonized by Westerners. On the other hand, the sovereigns Rama IV and V always had a special relationship with Europe, one of admiration: Europe was the crucible of all the innovations of the time, and to draw inspiration from its style was proof of modernity and openness. What's more, building with a European accent is a way for Thailand to show that it can compete on equal terms with the great colonial empires. This explains the Haussmann-style character of certain districts, with their wide tree-lined boulevards. And don't be surprised to discover neo-Gothic, neo-classical or even Art Nouveau buildings in the midst of temples inherited from Hindu or Chinese traditions. This is particularly true of Bangkok's two great landmarks: the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo. In this vast complex, you can admire the gardens and the curved, multi-level roofs covered with Chinese-inspired glazed tiles; the neo-Renaissance Boron Phiman mansion and, of course, jewels of Thai decorative art.
Another fine example of this blend of styles is Wat Benchamabophit. Its three-storey roof is covered with yellow Chinese tiles, while its Carrara marble walls are pierced with Western-inspired stained-glass windows. Another must-see is Dusit Palace Park, home to the Vimanmek Teak Mansion, the royal residence of Rama V and the largest golden teak palace in the world! Outside Bangkok, this monumental, eclectic style finds its finest representative in Phetchaburi in the Phra Nakhon Khiri Palace, Rama V's summer residence. Overlooking a hill, it combines a Khmer prang, a slender chedi and a temple resembling a Greco-Roman creation. With the advent of the railroad, tourism developed, as did the country's first seaside resorts. Hua-Hin, with its superb wooden railway station, is the oldest and was much appreciated by Rama VI, who came here for treatment of his arthritis. To spare the sovereign unnecessary effort and make the most of his proximity to the sea, his Italian architect concocted a functional summer palace composed of several teak pavilions linked by elegant promenades. A simplicity directly inspired by traditional architecture.
Traditional houses
In Bangkok, the khlongs are lined with hundreds of small houses. These may be square, rectangular or trapezoidal in plan, on stilts, moored to poles or resting on floating rafts. Generally speaking, teak floors are designed to remain flexible, with slats that are not adjusted to dampen water movements. These houses often feature sloping roofs, designed to withstand heavy rainfall, creating a triangular pediment at the front, with overhanging balconies at the sides. Most often, the walls are made of prefabricated panels designed to fit together quickly and easily, with long, narrow windows to ensure a cool, dry atmosphere. Bangkok is also home to a unique example of traditional architecture: Jim Thompson House. Architect, spy, merchant, cloth merchant, this unique figure in the city's history was above all passionate about Thai architecture, and decided to dismantle numerous houses in different parts of the country and reassemble them in his Bangkok home. This is how this "eco-museum" came into being, featuring wonders made of teak, the flagship material of Thai architecture. But houses on stilts are not the exclusive preserve of Bangkok's inhabitants. Their slender silhouettes can be found in many fishing villages, as well as in the so-called Gipsy Villages belonging to the Chow Lair, Thailand's nomads of the sea. At Ban Bang Bao on the island of Ko Chang, you can also discover the tradition of interconnected wooden jetties, creating astonishing pathways above the waves.
Contemporary effervescence
Like all major Asian metropolises, Bangkok began its metamorphosis into a vertical city in the 1960s and 1970s. Hundreds of skyscrapers graced the skyline. The idea was to build fast, and lots of it, to show off the city's prosperity... hence the nickname "egg boxes" often given to these buildings. From the 1980s onwards, the city turned to high-tech architecture, where form counts as much as function. It was at this time that two of the city's most unusual buildings came into being, whose names make it easy to guess their general appearance: the Elephant Building and the Robot Building. The city has no shortage of humor! In the 1990s, architect Rangsan Torsuwan developed a style combining postmodernism with neoclassical and Thai influences. He was responsible for the State Tower, which dominates the city from its 247 m high golden dome, as well as the Sathorn Unique Tower, an unfinished edifice that has become an Urbex enthusiast's paradise! Today, Bangkok's skyline continues to be transformed by astonishing towers such as the 309 m-high Baiyoke II, a kind of giant pen topped by a rotunda; or the fascinating 314 m-high King Power Mahanakhon, designed as a reproduction of a pixel being downloaded... The tower gives the impression of being under permanent construction!
At the same time, since the 1970s, the south of Thailand has not been able to escape the throes of mass tourism, and its most famous beaches, such as Phuket and Pattaya, have been covered with hotel complexes and shopping malls, disfiguring the superb natural surroundings. In Bangkok, where many canals have been filled in to increase the amount of land available for construction, concrete development is also having a detrimental effect. Yet these canals help to absorb floods by redirecting water onto crops. Similarly, the pumping of groundwater has led to soil subsidence, and many parts of Bangkok are now below sea level, making them extremely vulnerable to flooding. But in the face of these trends, many are opting for sobriety, sustainability and respect for tradition. In Bangkok, "The Met" won the prize for most innovative skyscraper, thanks to its planted balconies and transparent silhouette providing natural light and ventilation. The Naiipa Art Complex, meanwhile, is entirely covered in mirrors to blend in with the surrounding vegetation. The Rosewood Bangkok Hotel's silhouette is inspired by the movement of the welcome hand, whose inclinations create gardens and terraces. The EmQuartier Bangkok, meanwhile, is a stunning shopping mall with an atrium featuring a waterfall, an open-air garden and superb helical floor blocks creating a skylight. Southern Thailand also boasts two astonishing projects by Booserm Premthada, founder of Bangkok Project Studio and a strong advocate of a return to basics and a dialogue between nature and the built environment. Deaf from birth, he very soon developed an admiration for elephants, which perceive sound through vibrations. Similarly, he became interested in traditional materials, drawing inspiration from them for a new type of locally handmade clay brick whose sonority he works on to better apprehend shapes, spaces and dimensions. The architect has recently launched two major projects: The Cultural Courtyard-Elephant World and the Elephant Museum. The idea is to provide protective architecture for the Kui people and their elephants. Interconnecting courtyards and large open spaces, wooden roofs and protective brick walls... These sanctuaries are true havens of peace. In February 2023, the renowned Snøhetta agency unveiled its Cloud 11 project, consisting of 250,000m2 of elevated gardens and glass buildings with cut-out volumes in the heart of Bangkok, due to be inaugurated at the end of 2024. And you'll soon be able to discover Foster + Partners' astonishing The Forestias project, the largest real estate development in Thailand, consisting of 48,000m2 of urban forests connecting slender, organic buildings with green roofs. Astonishing!
