Practical information : Eating out Jordan
Timetable
Traditional restaurants generally open continuously from midday to 10:30-11pm. Canteens and falafel or shawarma vendors have longer opening hours, opening in the morning between 7 and 9 a.m. and closing late, often after midnight. This means you'll have no trouble stocking up in tourist towns. In the villages, opening hours are more restricted when there is a restaurant.
Budget & Tips
Food is not expensive in Jordan. You can eat a hearty oriental sandwich (falafel, shawarma, sheesh tawouk...) for less than 2 DJ. Expect to pay between 2 and 5 DJ for a meal in a canteen, and between 8 and 15 DJ in a restaurant. The bill will never exceed 25 DJ, unless you eat like 4.
What costs extra
The bill is presented to you all taxes and service included. On the other hand, the tipping culture is strong in the country, and it's customary to leave something for your waiter (between 0.50 and 5 DJ depending on the restaurant's standing).
The local way
Traditionally, Jordanians eat with their right hand. But in restaurants, they use cutlery. On the other hand, if you are invited to share a mansaf, the national dish, you will be well received if you use your hand.
To be avoided
If you try your hand at the local fashion, make sure you never use your left hand to dip into the communal dish. It is reserved for uses considered impure, such as washing.
Kids
Jordan cherishes and pampers children. They are welcome everywhere, especially in restaurants. They have every right, including the right to run around and push waiters. You'll never see anyone tell them off.
Smokers
Jordanians are heavy smokers. Women generally smoke behind the closed door of their homes. Men, on the other hand, smoke absolutely everywhere, at the wheel, in restaurants, on the street and, best of all, hookah in the café, an institutional practice. Many restaurants offer these water pipes, which are smoked while sharing mezzés, even in enclosed spaces. Non-smoking restaurants are generally family-run establishments with a "no smoking" sign.
Tourist traps
Jordan is a very safe country, and there are no particular scams. In touristy towns like Madaba or Wadi Musa, you may be stopped in the street by a tout trying to lure you into his or her restaurant. It's up to you to decide whether or not you're tempted.