Practical information : Eating out Genoa
Timetable
Restaurants generally serve from 12:30 to 14:30 and from 19:00 to 22:00 or 23:00. More touristy addresses may offer non-stop catering.
Budget & Tips
In Genoa, you can always find a good place to grab a bite to eat at a low price, or take your time over a dish of pasta al pesto in a local trattoria. On the other hand, the bill will be considerably higher in the seaside resorts along the coast. If you don't have a big appetite, you can also satisfy yourself at aperitif time. In fact, almost every bar and even many bakeries offer happy hour with a cocktail or glass of wine and plenty of appetizers. Round off with a gelato from one of the city's ice cream parlors.
What costs extra
Coperto. Don't be surprised if, at the end of your meal, you see a few extra euros on the bill, marked " coperto ". This is simply the place setting, which Italians charge extra for. The amount varies according to the quality of the establishment, between €2 and €5 per person.
Mineral water. Order frizzante (sparkling) or liscia (still). Unlike the French, Italians don't drink tap water, preferring bottled water. So don't be surprised if people look at you sideways when you ask for a carafe of water in a restaurant! In any case, mineral water is sold at a lower price than in France: a large bottle costs between €1.50 and €4.
The local way
An ideal way to eat on a budget, while soaking up the atmosphere of old Genoa, is in the traditional friggitorie and tripperie. In these tiny taverns, you can enjoy simple, gourmet dishes, once on the menu of port workers, to eat in or take away. 100% authentic, and modestly priced.
To be avoided
Avoid asking for a carafe of water! Italians only drink mineral water.
Kids
Genoa is no exception: Italians are very fond of children, so they're generally very welcome everywhere, even in the fanciest restaurants. Highchairs are generally available in all establishments. On the menu, it's not usual to find children's menus, but between pasta, rice, gnocchi and pizza, it's always easy to find something suitable for the little ones. Don't hesitate to ask for them to be prepared with a simpler seasoning than the one on the menu (tomato sauce, pesto or just olive oil), perhaps sprinkled with grated parmesan. Similarly, you'll always find grilled fish filleted with oil and potatoes. And last but not least, children are sure to find their sweet tooth in the land of ice cream!
Smokers
Smoking is forbidden in enclosed spaces in Italy as in France, so no cigars or cigarettes in restaurants and bistros.
Tourist traps
Many tourist restaurants and bars have invaded the seaside resorts, particularly on the Riviera des Fleurs and the Riviera delle Palme. Needless to say, you'd be well advised to steer clear of establishments displaying photos of tourist menus featuring pizzas and cappuccinos... Fortunately, you'll find a number of less mass-touristy addresses in each locality that have managed to retain all their authenticity.