Few islands in the world can offer so much in such a small space. If you look at the map of Formentera, you might think that half a day is enough to go around this island, which is only 19 km long. And yet, nothing could be further from the truth! Extremely rich and varied, this small Mediterranean universe offers a myriad of small beaches with crystal-clear waters, secret coves, unspoilt paths, lush pine forests, charming villages and much more... An overview of a small Spanish pearl.
Formentera, a very special identity
Inhabited since prehistoric times, the Balearic island has seen a number of invasions and colonisations, interspersed with long periods of abandonment due to the plague or piracy. These vicissitudes helped to preserve the island and its modest and traditional activities of fishing, salt extraction and subsistence farming until the 1960s. It was the arrival of the hippies and the naturist movement, all too happy to discover such a virginal setting, that brought about a radical change in the Formenterenc landscape. From then on, almost the entire island turned to tourism, but far from the excesses and with a very different approach to that of neighbouring Ibiza
Beyond the postcard clichés of pretty girls in bikinis with golden skin, of dazzling sand reflecting a sun whose rays dart ardently against the backdrop of a translucent turquoise sea, Formentera has a strong identity that it strives to affirm by promoting its cultural heritage, respect for its environment and a typical gastronomy that is increasingly attracting gourmets of all kinds. Eminently Mediterranean, Formentera's cuisine is inspired by the culinary traditions imported by the various conquerors throughout history. Its typical dishes are prepared with local products, mainly from the sea, as shown by the different varieties of peix sec: the ancient technique of drying fish in the open air, which is still very much alive.
Formentera's exceptional coastline and seabed
The first image of the island that comes to mind is, of course, the fine sandy beaches stretching along an exceptionally crystal clear sea. An irresistible call to swim, of course, but also to discover the sea bed. And as soon as the visitor puts on the snorkel mask, a new world is revealed, full of breathtaking discoveries. Beneath the aquatic horizon, the diver discovers a veritable animal and natural museum dominated by an 8 km long meadow of oceanic posidonia that is some 100,000 years old... Located in the heart of the Es Freus and Ses Salines Marine Reserve, it is quite simply considered to be the oldest living organism in the world! It is also the only natural marine area in the Mediterranean to be listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Back on the surface, the pleasant water temperature and the optimal conditions of the coastline allow you to practice nautical activities all year round. Sailing, kayaking and paddle boarding are good options for discovering places that are difficult to access by land, as well as the uninhabited and unspoilt islets of S'Espalmador and S'Espardell. On the beach side, Ses Illetes and Llevant share a tongue of land of fine sand that includes other small beaches. If you go as far as Punta del Ras, you can enjoy a magnificent view of Ibiza in the distance. Migjorn beach covers the entire southern coast of the island. It is 8 km long and includes the small beaches of Es Arenals, Es Mal Pas, Es Copinar and Es Ca Marí. All of them have pretty chiringuitos (local straw huts) nestled between the pine trees, a really pleasant setting to end the day in style with a cocktail in hand.
On the roads of the interior, for dreamy hikes
Formentera is entirely open and turned towards the nourishing sea, as shown by its hospitable stretches of beach and its characteristic lighthouses. But sailors and swimmers would be wrong not to take an interest in its unspoilt and wild lands, the fruit of pure nature. There are several protected natural areas and parks, of which the Ses Salines Natural Park is the best example. This natural sanctuary serves as a privileged stopover in winter for migratory birds such as herons, flamingos and many other species that delight ornithologists and birdwatching enthusiasts. A complete network of hiking, Nordic walking and mountain bike trails (the Circuits Verds) criss-cross the island. Duly signposted, they guarantee a complete and easy discovery on foot, by bike or on horseback. You can swim in the Camí de Ses Illetes, discover the natural pools of Can Marroig, walk along the cliffs of the Camí de Sa Pedrera or make a spectacular ascent of the Pujada de la Mola through a dense and fragrant pine forest.
An island open all year round
In terms of culture, the prehistoric sites of Na Costa, Cap de Barbaria and the Roman castellum of Can Blai attest to the fact that the island has been inhabited since time immemorial. The parish churches of Sant Francesc (the capital, which also houses the small chapel of Sa Tanca Vella), La Mola and Sant Ferran have for centuries been the setting for deeply rooted festivals and traditions: the ballads (dances of medieval origin), the caramelles (religious Christmas songs) and the cantada (on 25 July in honour of Sant Jaume, the island's patron saint)
The omnipresent built heritage of wells, piers and mills is a reminder of the island's agricultural origins. The mill of La Mola, built in 1778, is worth a visit. Sant Francesc is an essential stop for strolling through the shopping streets, shopping in its hippie-chic boutiques and enjoying its pleasant little cafés with shady terraces. It is also where the tourist office is located (they speak French!) and some very good hotels and restaurants
Sant Ferran, a former hippie refuge, still has a cool atmosphere and a lot of charisma, as does the Pilar de la Mola, a small village of only a few houses that hosts the most important hippie market on the island. It is also the highest point on Formentera (192 m) and the road leading to it offers an impressive view of the whole island. After the village, the road leads to the lighthouse overlooking an impressive cliff, here the panorama becomes striking. Located at the foot of La Mola, Es Caló is a pretty fishing village built around a pier consisting of several "escars" dug into the rock. They allow the boats to slide down to the water. Finally, Es Pujols, with its splendid cove, is the most popular and lively place on the island. A real treat!
Useful information
When is it time to go? The Mediterranean climate is delightfully mild in winter and ideal in spring and autumn with perfect sunshine and clear days. March to June and September are the best times of the year to consider a trip. The peak tourist season is in July and August.
Getting there. By boat, the only way to reach Formentera from Ibiza. It costs between 20 and 60 € for a return trip. Otherwise, you can find some direct flights between Paris and Ibiza.
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