Discover Balearic Islands : Architecture (and design)

Forget everything you think you know about the Balearic Islands and embark on an original journey to the heart of an architectural heritage of unsuspected wealth. Coveted lands for millennia, the Balearics are home to witnesses to the greatest civilizations, and the roads criss-crossing their ochre and red lands will lead you to some astonishing sites. You'll discover the stone giants of prehistoric Talayotic culture, and marvel at Phoenician necropolises and Roman temples. In the heart of the cities, you'll read the Moorish and then Spanish influence behind every stone, and be swept away in a whirlwind of Gothic and Baroque. In the countryside, you'll be amazed by the ingenuity of a unique rural habitat. Look past the concrete "warts", for in their shadows lie treasures of modernism and refined contemporary achievements. Welcome to the Balearic Islands, land of art and history!

The origins

The most fascinating prehistoric evidence of the Balearic Islands is the talayotic culture dating back to 1600 B.C. This name comes from the talayots found in large numbers on Menorca and Mallorca. Circular or quadrangular in shape, these fortified towers are impressive for their cyclopean bonding, formed from imposing stones assembled without cement or mortar. Not to be missed: the towers of Ciutadella and Trepuco in Menorca. These protection and observation towers were part of the defensive system put in place in the first Talayotic villages, the remains of which can be seen at the Ses Paisses site on Mallorca. Taulas are another astonishing testimony to this culture. These are stone altars consisting of a menhir topped by a flat stone, often protected by circles of sacred stones. Last but not least, don't miss the navetas, so-named because their structure resembles that of an inverted ship's hull. They consist of a small door leading to an antechamber or corridor serving one or more superimposed chambers. The most famous is the Naveta d'Es Tudons in Ciutadella de Menorca. Note its imposing dimensions and rooms decorated with corbelled ceilings. On Mallorca, other funerary edifices developed, such as hypogeums, funerary structures dug directly into the ground. The importance of funerary rites is echoed by the Phoenicians and Carthaginians, who left beautiful traces of their presence, notably on Ibiza. The Punic necropolis at Puig des Molins is one of the largest in the world. Nearly 4,000 hypogea have been found here. The Sa Caleta site illustrates Phoenician mastery of urban planning. Here, you'll discover the remains of a real city, divided into neighborhoods with residential areas populated by houses, but also more commercial areas with a bread oven or a cast-iron workshop. This mastery of urban planning was also to be found in Roman times, as demonstrated by the Pollentia site on the island of Majorca. Three domus have been uncovered here, including the Maison des Deux Trésors with its beautiful arcaded façade. The forum with the capitol and a theater with part of its seating were also discovered. Masters of engineering, the Romans also left the remains of imposing aqueducts, such as the Santa Eularia des Riu aqueduct in Ibiza.

From the Caliphate to the Spanish Crown

The development of irrigation systems, soil management and terraced orchards, the development of iron, ceramics and glass techniques... thanks to their know-how, the Moors considerably transformed the face of the islands. It was also under their control that the first great fortresses, the almudaina - such as the Palau Reial de la Almudaina in Palma - and the first systems of ramparts were developed. We also owe them a very fine water architecture, with fountains in squares and in the many patios of houses, a typically Moorish layout. The baths are also a precious testimony to the Moorish presence, as witnessed by the Banys Arabs in Palma, with their superb hammam topped by a dome that lets in light through beautiful skylights. Town centers such as Ciutadella in Menorca still bear the hallmarks of the medina of the time, with their narrow, shady streets and small squares. Unfortunately, most of the evidence of this era has been considerably altered or even destroyed by the various Spanish factions. Churches replaced mosques and fortresses were transformed into Gothic palaces. Back in the Christian fold, the Balearic Islands are covered with superb religious buildings, foremost among them the cathedrals of Palma and Ibiza. The former is a symbol of the islands' syncretism, having been built on top of an ancient mosque, itself built on top of a Roman temple. A superb example of Catalan Gothic, with its almost flat roof, lack of transept or ambulatory and, above all, its high vaults creating an uncluttered space lit by the dozens of rosettes and stained glass windows that pierce its structure. Convents and hermitages also proliferate. The architecture of Ibiza's churches reflects the island's changing situation. The first churches were veritable fortresses, low and solid, with gun emplacements like thechurch of Sant Antoni. Gradually, however, the architecture became more open, the church becoming the center of the parish, which explains the presence of covered courtyards preceded by arched entrances to welcome the faithful. These whitewashed churches were developed mainly from the 18th century onwards. In Ibiza, you won't want to miss the watchtowers, most often circular in plan and built of limestone, whose squat, loopholed silhouettes dot the island's coastline, like the Torre des Savinar and Torre de Balafia. This constant need for protection is also reflected in the proliferation of city walls. Eivissa's ramparts date back to the 16th century. With their bastions and heptagonal shape, they seem indestructible. Alcudia, on the island of Majorca, also boasts a superb stone wall and two impressive square, crenellated towers, the Porta des Moll and the Porta Sant Sebastia. Within these powerful defensive systems lie other treasures bearing the hallmarks of the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque periods, and the Spanish presence can be seen in the many examples of civil architecture: ayuntamientos (town halls), private palaces and commercial exchanges populate the towns. Don't miss La Llotja, Palma's beautiful trade exchange, with its sumptuous three naves, ribbed vaults and twisted columns, a fine example of flamboyant Gothic; or Cal Marquès de Palmer, a sumptuous Gothic-Renaissance palace, and the town hall, whose rich decoration marks a transition to Baroque. These buildings are most often concentrated around squares, which become the vibrant heart of towns and the focal point of their urban planning. Alongside this very "official" architecture, you can also admire the richness of the Balearic rural habitat, and more specifically that of Ibiza. Windmills, cisterns and dry-stone walls make up a unique heritage that illustrates daily life in the countryside. But it is without doubt the fincas that are the island's pride and joy. Designed by the peasants themselves, these constructions are perfectly adapted to the rigors of the climate and developed according to the needs of the inhabitants. Constructed from local stone and limestone blocks and whitewashed with lime, they are the result of the juxtaposition of simple cubic volumes. The flat roofs with local wooden beams are designed to allow rainwater to be collected, while the small number of openings ensures a pleasant temperature, whatever the season. A sobriety and rationality that impressed Le Corbusier and the members of the Bauhaus!

Triumph of modernity

At the turn of the 20th century, the islands, like the rest of the continent, succumbed to the historicizing wave of neo styles. In Palma, Can Corbella is a superb example of the neo-Mudejar style. This style is found in many commercial and industrial buildings, with their elaborate arcatures and famous coffered ceilings. Gradually, this historicist trend gave way to a unique modernism, creating an astonishing synthesis between the gentle curves of Art Nouveau, the geometric lines of the Viennese Secession and the dreamlike creations of Catalan Modernism. In Palma, the Can Casasayas and the Pension Menorquina, with their undulating facades and rich ornamentation, recall the creations of the leader of Modernism, the brilliant Gaudi, whose astonishing creations can be seen... in the very heart of Palma Cathedral, where he redesigned the choir with wrought iron! Last but not least, don't miss the Gran Hotel de Palma (now home to the Caixa Cultural Foundation). Designed by Lluis Domenech i Montaner and the city's first hotel, the building is adorned in the finest Art Nouveau colors. In Ibiza, it was the modernists Josep Lluis Sert, Sixte Illescas and German Rodrigues Arias who left their mark on the urbanization of the Can Pep Simo district, a 1930s project largely inspired by rural fincas, with its white houses and simple volumes. Josep Lluis Sert also designed Miro's workshop in Palma. Between innovation and tradition, concrete and traditional materials, Sert imagined a place in the image of its owner: unique. In 1992, Pilar Miro, the artist's wife, commissioned an extension from architect Rafael Moneo. Nicknamed "the alabaster fortress", this creation is a masterpiece of formal purity and sobriety. And Moneo is not the only one to have been inspired by these islands. Daniel Liebeskind designed artist Barbara Weil's studio in Port d'Andratx in 2003. With its astonishing shapes and pure, luminous whiteness, the building is like a sculpture among sculptures, blending harmoniously into its surroundings. Alvaro Siza's villa in Palma is no exception. Flat roofs, simple interlocking shapes... all reminiscent of finca architecture. Today's villas are the finest representatives of a contemporary architecture that respects the environment in which it is harmoniously integrated, but also local traditions, multiplying the use of locally-produced materials and stones, favoring simplicity and sobriety, a far cry from the concrete walls of certain coastal areas. Villa Mediterraneo01, designed by Metroarea, is a fine example. At the same time, each island is stepping up campaigns to preserve and restore its heritage, while tightening environmental protection legislation. The Balearics, and Formentera in particular, have understood that the survival of their identity depends on this protection.

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