The palafitos and churches of Chiloé
The straw roofs of Chilean houses, which provide excellent thermal insulation and waterproofing, are inherited from Mapuche construction. This architecture is characteristic of the region, and there is often a tendency to break up the volume of buildings (with balconies that stand out from the facade, for example). But Chiloé is most famous for its unique wooden churches, sixteen of which have been declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Wood was abundant when the Jesuits arrived in the 16th century, and it was only natural that the first inhabitants chose this noble material to build their churches. The most common wood isalerce, although other rarer woods are also used. These buildings were continued in the 18th and 19th centuries by the Franciscans. The architecture is a perfect fusion of European and indigenous influences. Church layouts vary from one monument to another, but depth has always been favored over width. The basilica has three naves, separated from each other by solid wooden columns resting on stone blocks. What's fascinating is the ingenuity of the builders in constructing the monuments, as well as the sometimes "flashy" colors, such as the yellow of theiglesia San Francisco de Castro and the bluish hues of the iglesia de Tenaún, which has three towers unlike the other churches in the region. Despite all this, many of the churches in the archipelago boast beautiful rough-hewn woodwork, including the iglesia de Quinchao, the most imposing in the archipelago, the iglesia de Aldachildo and the iglesia Santa Maria de Loreto de Achao, the oldest wooden church in Chile.
Another icon of the island's wooden architecture are the famous palafitos or stilt houses, found in the Castro area. The first palafitos were residences and stores built during the boom in timber exports from Chiloé's ports at the end of the 19th century. But following a rural exodus triggered by an epidemic, peasants appropriated these small plots of land to continue farming and fishing in peace. Today, in an ever-expanding Chile, the traditional districts of the palafitos are no longer simply residential areas. And in the Castro fjord, a stroll through the Gamboa district is an opportunity not only to contemplate these surprising houses overlooking the waters, but also to stop off at craft stores, restaurants and cafés. You can even put down your suitcases at Hotel Palafito 1326 to enjoy the charms of the area and a complete change of scenery.
The European architecture of San Carlos de Bariloche and the mountain villages
Nicknamed "Argentina's Switzerland", the town of San Carlos de Bariloche deserves this comparison. The city lies on the coast of Lake Nahuel Huapi, and features similar landscapes of mountains, verdant forests and grandiose lakes. The resemblance even extends to the city's buildings, where wood is delicately combined with large stones. If the town resembles a Central European ski resort, it's not by chance. Officially built in 1903 by Carlos Wiederhold, a Swiss national, the town initially welcomed Italian, Austrian and German immigrants. The latter left their mark, notably in the town's chalet-like buildings, typical of those seen in Switzerland. Among the town's notable architects was Alejandro Bustillo. A gifted painter and much sought-after architect, he designed theHotel Llao Llao (now a major tourist attraction) and drew up the plans for the church that later became Bariloche's beautiful cathedral. Activity in the city revolves around the Centro Cívico, the administrative, historical and tourist heart of the city. As you stroll around, take time to admire the stone and wood ensemble dating back to the 1930s, as well as the unobstructed view over Lake Nahuel Huapi. The various elements that make up the Centro Cívico were declared national historic monuments in 1987.
San Carlos de Bariloche may be the most popular mountain town, but there are other typical mountain villages on both sides of the mountain. So, to enjoy the beauty of the national parks and the activities associated with the high mountains, it's also possible to put down your suitcases in towns such as Villa la Angostura and San Martin de los Andes. And then there's El Bolsón, a town that was a haven for hippies in the 1960s, before declaring itself an ecological town and non-nuclear zone a few years later. Its mountain-style farms grow hops for craft beers sold at the market.
On the road to the Patagonian estancias
As you travel through Patagonia from north to south, you may choose to stop and sleep in one of the region's must-see establishments: the estancias. Estancias are large farms in South America, seemingly isolated in the midst of nature, with vast meadows where cattle and sheep are raised, and snow-capped mountain peaks in the background. The architecture of the estancias varies from one estate to another. In some places, for example, buildings are constructed using sheet metal, while in others wood and stone are used. Estancias often bear feminine names, such as estancia Alicia or estancia Cristina. Today, some of these shepherds' residences have been converted into bed & breakfasts for visitors wishing to enjoy an authentic setting in the heart of a powerful and omnipresent natural environment, as well as to indulge in a variety of activities, including hiking in the national parks, horseback riding and an understanding of animal husbandry. The architecture of the estancias is not always remarkable, but it's the feeling of being lost in the middle of nowhere that makes this Patagonian experience a must.
Patagonian architecture and its sheet metal roofs
This model of house, imported directly by European settlers during the Industrial Revolution, is typical of southern Chile and Argentina. The architecture was inspired by the houses built by British pioneers on the Falkland Islands. It is a wooden house with a corrugated iron roof(chapa). Despite the subsequent arrival of settlers of various European origins, this system quickly became widespread, in Chile and Argentina of course, but also in the United States and other South American countries. In effect, it's a functionalist architecture using raw materials. These features, made of wood, sheet metal and color, have even become fashionable in Buenos Aires in recent years.
To immerse yourself in this characteristic Patagonian architecture, you need to visit the world's southernmost city, Ushuaïa. It's here, on the way to the port, that you'll enjoy a superb view of the colorful houses and mountains behind, which seem more accessible than ever. The impression you get as you stroll through the city's various districts can be mixed. Some will be disappointed, while others will fall under its spell. The city's architecture is highly heterogeneous. Colorful wooden houses with tin roofs are still very much in evidence, much to the delight of visitors who immediately spot the Scandinavian influences, but the further you move away from the city center, the more heterogeneous the architecture becomes, symbolizing the hasty development of the urban area.
Some monuments and sites not to be missed
Over and over again, we hear that Patagonia attracts visitors from all over the world for its environmental splendors and grandiose landscapes, but we've also noticed that the region boasts architecture inspired by its history, colonization and influences that blend elements of European and indigenous origins. There are also a number of monuments and sites not to be missed for a tour of the main architectural curiosities of this unusual territory. On a trip to Ushuaïa, don't miss a boat trip to see the Éclaireurs lighthouse, built in 1920 by the French. It stands in the Beagle Channel and is easily recognized by its red and white colors.
In Puerto Madryn, the monumento al indio Tehuelche is not a strikingly beautiful construction, but this statue of a Tehuelche Indian at the top of a stone headland is an opportunity to plunge into a part of history and remember that the region was first inhabited by Indian communities.
Last but not least, although there are no monuments to speak of on this site, the Cueva de las Manos is a must-see. It contains an exceptional collection of rock art, with many hands stenciled on it. Animals can also be seen. They are thought to have been created 13,000 years ago! The site can be seen as the desire of the first men on the territory to set up a kind of museum here, within the rock itself.
What architecture for the future?
A visit to Patagonia may well raise the question of how the authorities envisage the architecture of the future. In a region where protecting the environment is a major concern, it's hard to imagine that large-scale developments will be built here and there, spoiling the region's fantastic landscapes. And yet, the boom in tourism has necessitated the construction of hotels to cater for the growing number of visitors. It's pleasing to note that some architectural firms have designed hotels that blend wonderfully into the landscape. Such is the case of the Hotel Tierra Patagonia & Spa, located on the shores of Lake Sarmiento. The facade of this 200 m-long monolith was crafted from a traditional local wood, lenga. The discreet structure blends perfectly into the wooded landscape. Hotel Awasi in Tercera Barranica, meanwhile, takes its inspiration from refuges, with an architecture composed of traditional materials. In both cases, contemporary inspirations have been perfectly integrated with forms and materials that do not distort the site, and we're delighted.
