Discover la Patagonie : Architecture (and design)

We often tend to reduce all the architecture of the Patagonian region to that of Argentina. And the latter is very often associated with that of Buenos Aires. But it is not so! When visiting the region, you will see building styles that the capital does not have: the colorful houses made of corrugated iron in Ushuaia and the Patagonian estancias, the traditional houses on stilts in the Chiloé archipelago or the real Swiss chalets in the Bariloche region! Of course, Patagonia is world-famous for its breathtakingly beautiful landscapes, but it would be a shame on a trip to this region at the end of the world to miss the towns, monuments, sites and homes that reveal how history and environmental concerns have shaped architecture.

The palafitos and churches of Chiloé

The straw roof of the Chilean houses, excellent thermal insulation and waterproof, is inherited from the Mapuche construction. This architecture is a regional characteristic, we often find a certain tendency to break the volume of the buildings (with balconies that stand out from the facade for example). But Chiloé is especially famous for its wooden churches, unique in their kind, sixteen of which have been registered in the UNESCO world heritage. When the Jesuits arrived in the 16th century, wood was abundant and the first inhabitants naturally chose this noble material to build their churches. The most common wood used wasalerce, although other rarer woods were also used. These constructions were continued in the 18th and 19th centuries by the Franciscans. The architecture is a perfect fusion of European and indigenous influences. The plan of the churches may vary from one monument to another, but it is noted that depth has always been preferred to width. The basilica plan has three naves, which are separated from each other by wooden columns of great solidity that rest on stone blocks. What is fascinating is the ingenuity of the builders in constructing the monuments, as well as the sometimes "flashy" colors, such as the yellow of the iglesiaSan Francisco de Castro and the bluish shades of the iglesia de Tenaún, which has three towers unlike the other churches in the region. Nevertheless, there are many churches with beautiful raw wood, such as the iglesia of Quinchao, the most imposing of the archipelago, the iglesia of Aldachildo or the iglesia Santa Maria de Loreto de Achao, which is the oldest wooden church in Chile.

Another icon of the wooden architecture of the island: the famous palafitos or houses on stilts that can be found on the side of Castro. The first palafitos were residences and stores built during the boom of wood export from the ports of Chiloé at the end of the 19th century. But after a rural exodus due to an epidemic, peasants appropriated these small plots of land to continue farming and fishing in peace. Today, in a Chile that continues to develop, the traditional districts of the palafitos are no longer simple living quarters. And in the fjord of Castro, a walk in the neighborhood of Gamboa is an opportunity not only to contemplate these amazing houses that dominate the waters, but also to stop in craft stores, restaurants and cafes. You can even stay at the Palafito 1326 Hotel to enjoy the charms of the area and a total change of scenery.

The European architecture of San Carlos de Bariloche and the mountain villages

Nicknamed "Argentina's Switzerland", the city of San Carlos de Bariloche deserves this comparison. The city is located on the coast of Lake Nahuel Huapi, and it has similar landscapes of mountains, green forests and great lakes. The resemblance even goes as far as the city's buildings, where wood is delicately combined with large stones. If the city looks like a Central European ski resort, it is not by chance. Officially built in 1903 by Carlos Wiederhold, a Swiss national, the city first welcomed Italian, Austrian and German immigrants. These immigrants left their mark on the city, particularly in the chalet-like buildings that are typical of those seen in Switzerland. Among the notable architects is Alejandro Bustillo. A gifted painter and much sought-after architect, he designed theHotel Llao Llao (today an important tourist center) and drew the plans for the church, which later became the beautiful Cathedral of Bariloche. The activity in the city takes place around the Centro Cívico, which is the administrative, historical and tourist heart of the city. During a stroll, you should take the time to admire the stone and wood complex that dates back to the 1930s, as well as the unobstructed view of Lake Nahuel Huapi. The different elements that make up the Centro Cívico were declared national historic monuments in 1987.

If San Carlos de Bariloche is the most visited mountain town, it should not be forgotten that on both sides of the mountain there are other typical mountain villages. Thus, it is also possible to enjoy the beauty of the national parks and the activities related to the high mountains by staying in towns such as Villa la Angostura and San Martin de los Andes. And then, it's hard to miss El Bolsón, a town that was a refuge for hippies in the 1960s, before declaring itself an ecological town and a non-nuclear zone a few years later. In its farms, also with mountain architecture, hops are produced to make artisanal beers sold in the markets.

On the road to the Patagonian estancias

Traveling through Patagonia from north to south, one can choose to stop and sleep in some of the most important establishments: the estancias. Estancias are large farms in South America, farms that seem to be isolated in the middle of a nature that consists of vast meadows where cattle and sheep are raised and in the background, the snowy peaks of the mountains. The architecture of the estancias varies from one estate to another. In some places, the buildings are made of sheet metal, while in others they are made of wood and stone. The estancias are often named after women, such as estancia Alicia or estancia Cristina. Today, some of these shepherds' houses have been converted into lodgings for visitors who wish to enjoy an authentic setting, in the heart of a powerful and omnipresent nature, as well as to indulge in various activities, hiking in the national parks, horseback riding and understanding of the cattle. The architecture of the estancias is not always remarkable, but it is the feeling of being lost in the middle of nowhere that makes this experience a must in Patagonia.

Patagonian architecture and its sheet metal roofs

This model of house, imported directly by European settlers during the industrial revolution, is typical of southern Chile and Argentina. This architecture is inspired by the houses of the British pioneers in the Falklands. It is a wooden house with a corrugated iron roof (chapa

). Despite the later arrival of settlers of various European origins, this system spread quickly, in Chile and Argentina of course, but also in the United States and other South American countries. It is in fact a functionalist architecture using raw materials. These features, made of wood, sheet metal and colours, have even become fashionable in Buenos Aires in recent years. To immerse yourself in this characteristic Patagonian architecture, you have to go to the southernmost city in the world, Ushuaia. It is there, on the way to the port, that one can enjoy a superb view of the colourful houses and the mountains that behind seem more accessible than ever. The impression that one feels when you walk through the different districts of the city can be mixed. Some will be disappointed when others fall under the spell. The city is indeed very heterogeneous from an architectural point of view. The colourful wooden houses with tin roofs are still very present, to the delight of visitors who immediately spot Scandinavian influences, but the further you go from the city centre, the more heterogeneous the architecture of the buildings is, symbolising a hasty development of the urban area.

Some monuments and sites not to be missed

As we keep hearing, Patagonia attracts visitors from all over the world for its environmental splendor and its grandiose landscapes, but it has also been noted that the region presents an architecture inspired by its history, colonization and influences that mix elements of European and indigenous origins. There are also some monuments and sites that should not be missed to see the main architectural sights of this unusual territory. During a trip to Ushuaïa, you should not miss the opportunity to board a boat to see the Éclaireurs lighthouse, built in 1920 by the French. It is located in the Beagle Channel and is easily recognizable by its red and white colors.

In Puerto Madryn, the monumento al indio Tehuelche is not a construction that surprises by its beauty, but this statue representing a Tehuelche Indian at the top of a rocky hill is an opportunity to dive into a part of history and to remember that the region was first inhabited by Indian communities.

Finally, and even if there is no monument as such on this site, the Cueva de las Manos is a place to go absolutely. It contains an exceptional set of rock art, where many hands have been drawn with stencils. We can also distinguish animals there. They would have been carried out there is of that 13 000 years! The site can be seen as the will of the first men on the territory to draw up in these places a kind of museum, within the rock.

What architecture for the future?

By going to Patagonia, we can be able to ask ourselves the question of how the authorities envisage the architecture of the future. In a region where the protection of the environment is a major stake, it is difficult to see here and there big complexes that would come to denature the fantastic landscapes. However, the growth of tourism has necessitated the construction of hotel establishments to meet the growing demand. It is pleasant to note that some architectural firms have designed hotels that blend in wonderfully with the landscape. This is the case of the Hotel Tierra Patagonia & Spa, located on the shores of Lake Sarmiento. The facade of this long monolith, 200 meters long, was made from a traditional local wood, the lenga. The structure is discreet and blends perfectly into the wooded landscape. For its part, the Awasi Hotel in Tercera Barranica is inspired by refuges, with an architecture that consists of traditional materials. For both establishments, the contemporary inspirations have perfectly integrated forms and materials that do not distort the place, and we are pleased.

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