The invention of agricultural rum
It is impossible to talk about Martinique without mentioning its rum, considered as one of the best in the world. Whether you are a simple fan of ti-punch, the very symbol of vacations, or a great connoisseur capable of appreciating the finest bottles, rum and its tasting are part of the local culture here. If the traditional rum manufactured in the whole world is obtained by the distillation of the residue of the manufacture of the sugar, the molasses, the agricultural rum of Martinique, results from the product of the fermentation of the pure fresh juice of the cane. It benefits from an AOC designation, which guarantees the quality and the origin of the cane as well as the respect of the main stages of manufacturing.
The invention of rum is linked to Father Labat. In 1694, the Dominican monk fell victim to a terrible fever from which he was saved by a decoction based on an alcohol that was still unknown at the time, tafia, the ancestor of what we call rum today. He then developed an ingenious manufacturing process with a still from the Charentes region, allowing him to obtain a clear and very aromatic liquid, resulting from the fermentation of various sugar wastes coming from the manufacture of sugar.
During the second half of the 19th century, the arrival of the steam engine revolutionized rum and gave birth to agricultural rum. Faced with the crisis that the sugar cane undergoes, after the discovery of the beet, the sugar factories are grouped in central factories. The sugar cane was transported from the fields to the factory via the railway network.
A major difficulty is that the particular topology of the island does not allow to connect the most isolated houses which are, in fact, marginalized from the sugar circuit. As a consequence, some of them decided to distill directly the juice of the cane (vesou) and gave birth to the agricultural rum which was called at the time "rhum z'habitants". At the end of the 19th century, the decline in world sugar prices encouraged small planters to convert to the production of this new rum.
The only AOC rum in the world
In Martinique, the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée ensures the exclusive use of cane juice from a delimited territory, with a regional tradition, presenting a certain quality.
But it is above all, it is the taste that will make the difference, an agricultural rum has fruitier aromas and a richer bouquet than an industrial rum. From a technical point of view, all the stages of the product's manufacture follow a perfectly supervised process, from the rigorous selection of the authorized varieties of cane to the delicate art of aging.
Elaboration of the agricultural rum. In concrete terms, the cane is washed, harvested and then crushed by a battery of mills. It produces juice, the vesou (sugarcane juice, as well as bagasse, which will be used as fuel), which is put to ferment before being distilled quickly to preserve all its aromatic potential. The vesou, carefully filtered, is placed in fermentation tanks for 36 to 48 hours. The fermentation process then begins, a crucial stage that determines the final flavors of the rum: under the action of the various yeasts, the sugar is transformed into alcohol. At the end of the fermentation, we obtain a cane wine with an alcohol content of 5-6°. Then comes the distillation stage. Introduced in the top of the column, the wine goes down from tray to tray, heating in contact with the steam introduced by the bottom of the column, which allows to separate the water from the alcohol and the aromatic components it contains. At the exit of the distillation column, the vapors give, once cooled, a white rum which is around 70°! This one is then brewed, aerated, put to rest during three months, then cut with distilled or spring water to come back around 50 to 55°. Ideal for ti-punches, the white rum keeps intact the aromas of the freshly cut cane.
Amber rum. The other part of the distilled vesou goes through an aging phase under wood (generally in oak barrel) to work out amber and old rums. The straw or amber rum stays in oak barrels for 12 to 18 months, during which it takes a light coloration, marked by some aromas reminiscent of old rum.
Old rum, on the other hand, only becomes old after 3 years, but it can be aged further by keeping it even longer: it is then called "hors d'âge". "Very Old" (VO) for rums aged under wood for 3 years, "Very Special Old Pale" (VSOP) for those aged for a minimum of 4 years, "Extra Old" (XO) for 6 years or more of aging. In addition, there are vintage rums, made from a single harvest, which bear witness to an exceptional year. These extraordinary old rums compete with the greatest spirits and can be enjoyed in the same way as old cognacs or Armagnac.
The AOC. In terms of international recognition, the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) gives Martinique's rums a reputation and originality that allow them to conquer new markets such as Japan, Europe or the United States. Especially since Martinican rums win numerous medals every year in international spirits competitions.
Spirit Tourism
Given the popularity of Martinican rum around the world, Martinique is opening up more and more to spirit tourism. Following the example of Scotland for its whiskey and France for its wine, this type of thematic tourism around spirits allows the discovery of the production process to the traditional tourist stays. It is a new way to discover a destination through the prism of the secrets of production of its local alcohol and to immerse oneself in the culture of Martinique.
Today, the island has twelve distilleries from north to south, seven of which are smoking distilleries, i.e. in operation and producing rum. The non-smoking distilleries no longer distill: they have entrusted the distillation of their rum to another active factory.
Among the distilleries are Neisson in Carbet, Maison La Mauny (which also distills Trois-Rivières rums), Habitation du Simon (where A1710, Clément and HSE rums are produced), Saint-James (which also distills Hardy rums), Depaz, the JM distillery and La Favorite. The old sugar production is limited to the only factory of Galion in La Trinité, the last sugar factory of the island still in activity.
Active distilleries can be visited all year long. Most of them offer guided visits for a fee to approach Martinique rum in a rather general way, with technical explanations but with educational aim, which will allure the connoisseurs and will not discourage rookies!
The visits are often family-friendly, especially at sites where small trains were arranged. They are an opportunity to spend a pleasant day, combining visits to a garden adjacent to the distillery, the cellars, tastings, visits to the stores, lunch on site, and a stopover at the beach.
The strength of these spirit tours? They can be adapted to your expectations and can be more specific for an informed public. Tailor-made visits in small groups, tastings of exceptional vintages such as extra old rums, workshops on food and rum pairing, meetings with cellar masters, craftsmen or chefs. In short, different aspects of Martinican heritage decline around the common core that is rum. And why not also stay on site and let yourself get caught up, for a night, by the sweetness of the surrounding cane plantations? Do not hesitate to ask directly to the distilleries mentioned. This tour of distilleries allows you to discover Martinique differently, by approaching both the history of the island and its know-how around rum. Because, from one distillery to another, the history, the soil, and the practices are different. We therefore invite you to visit each of them: you will find interesting specificities.
The distilleries of Martinique
Saint-James distillery. A visit to the Saint-James distillery and museum, located on the banks of the Sainte-Marie River since 1860, is an excellent introduction to the history and production techniques of this famous rum. Following an edict signed by Louis XIV forbidding the sale of rum in France, Father Lefebvre, founder of the distillery, decided to give his rum a name that would be easy for the English to pronounce, in order to facilitate the sale of his production to the colonists of New England. And so Saint-James rums were born. This is the only distillery still producing a few thousand liters of coeur de chauffe distilled from Charentais stills. The extensive range includes 50° rhum impérial des plantations, 50° rhum paille and 45° rhum royal ambré, aged for at least 12 months in oak casks. There are also several categories of aged rum: rhum vieux at 42° (aged for at least 4 years), hors-d'âge at 43° (aged for at least 7 years) and a range of millésimés, produced in years of exceptional harvests. The site also features a museum retracing the history of Martinique's agricultural rums. The visit is completely self-guided and free of charge. Housed in the former Creole dwelling of the previous owners, dating back to 1874, the museum uses old engravings, bottles, advertising posters and agricultural equipment to show how sugarcane was grown, how rum-making processes evolved, and how industrial techniques and equipment have improved since sugarcane first appeared in Martinique in 1654, and since 1765 by Saint-James. Outside the museum, past the garden where old mills, boilers and steam engines flourish, is the distillation house, which traces the history and art of distillation through the different apparatus used at different times. The collection of stills and distillation columns is impressive! The site also offers a 3 km ride (at extra cost) on the old plantation train, once used to transport sugar cane to the factory through fields of sugar cane and banana plantations. Between February and June, you'll pass right by the bustling factory.
Distillerie J.M. In Macouba, in the far north of Martinique, in the heart of the rainforest, the J.M. distillery has occupied the Rivière-Roche valley floor since the 19th century. From a simple waterwheel driving a mill (in a field of sugarcane) was born one of the world's most famous rums. The cane distilled comes exclusively from the Habitation Bellevue, located on a plateau above the distillery between Mount Pelée and the Atlantic Ocean, and is used entirely for the production of agricultural rum. The rum produced is of the highest quality, deserving of long ageing in oak barrels. The distillery also houses Martinique's only cooperage (from September to December). The visit, with its elegant and attractive scenography, is particularly interesting. It tells the story of the distillery. It all began in 1790 with Antoine Leroux-Préville. Six vats, arranged in ascending order of size, collect the cane juice. After crystallization, the syrup (molasses) is harvested, from which rum or tafia is made. From a simple sugar refinery, the company became a distillery in 1845 under Jean-Marie Martin (hence the initials JM). Gustave Crassous de Médeuil, who already owned the Bellevue house, acquired it from his brother Ernest in 1914. In 1971, the société civile agricole Héritiers Crassous de Médeuil was formed. The tour of the distillery continues with a visit to the rum gardens, a bucolic stroll that begins with the cane garden, where you can discover the three varieties of hybrid cane selected by the company from those authorized by the AOC for their quality and greater resistance to mechanical cutting: straw cane, blue cane and red cane. The garden features the typical layout of separate squares that once prevailed on cane plantations. The walk takes you past rich vegetation, born of exceptionally fertile soil and a mix of species: flowers, ornamental plants, shrubs, lianas or tall trees, the spice garden (basil, lemongrass, ginger, pepper, chili pepper, nutmeg, clove, Indian wood, cinnamon, vanilla...), before ending in the boutique to sample the divine nectars produced on site. Here, you'll discover the exceptional olfactory flavors of these "grands crus" and characterful nectars, served in sumptuous surroundings. The best is yet to come, with a stop at the boutique, home to some of the nuggets such as 15-year-old hors-d'âge, singular single casks and exceptional aged rums that have made and continue to make J.M.'s reputation.
Habitation Clément. Located south of Le François, Habitation Clément is famous for its AOC rums, its contemporary art foundation and its splendid botanical park, which has been awarded the Jardin remarquable label. Habitation Clément includes the former distillery, now a Rhums Clément Interpretation Center, ageing cellars where the famous Clément old rums rest peacefully, a Creole house listed as a French historic monument, and a botanical park in the heart of a sugarcane-growing farm. Located in the commune of Le François, this house, bought by Bernard and Yves Hayot in 1986, is a major part of Martinique's architectural and industrial heritage. Visits are not free, but there is a charge. Stroll through the large wooded park. Visit the 18th-century Creole house, with its period furniture and old photos. In the tasting room, you can taste and buy the famous nectar. To support its policy of promoting Caribbean artists, particularly those from Martinique, Habitation Clément has also set up a Foundation, which organizes exhibitions by artists from Martinique and the Caribbean. Highly creative, Clément was the first distillery to offer monovarietal white rums, i.e. made from a single variety of cane, in this case blue cane.
Habitation Saint-Etienne. This is one of Martinique's most avant-garde rum distilleries. Since 1994, Florette and José Hayot have been giving this Gros Morne estate a new lease of life, both in terms of the HSE brand's image and the renovation and embellishment of the premises. They perpetuate the ancestral know-how of AOC Martinique rums within their production, thanks to their very special techniques of slow reduction for white rums and meticulous barrel selection for aged rums. A visit to the estate is doubly interesting: firstly, the 5-hectare botanical park, with its exuberant and admirable flora of over 200 plant species. Secondly, the ISMH-listed former distillery, which houses industrial relics such as a 1925 steam engine, boilers, a hydraulic turbine, etc. HSE rums are produced at the Simon distillery in Le François, then aged in the 9 cellars of the Habitation Saint-Etienne in Gros-Morne. A wide range of aged rums is produced here, well known to connoisseurs and regularly awarded prizes. Bottling also takes place on site, and is visible before 3pm on weekdays. The HSE range is divided into three main categories: traditional products such as blanc and élevé sous-bois, VSOP, XO, Expert Casks and the innovative Finitions du monde. Enhanced by temporary exhibitions honoring local and international visual artists, the Habitation boutique offers visitors a wide choice of products, as well as free tastings.
Distillerie Dillon. Just outside Fort-de-France, the Dillon distillery produces several varieties of old and white rums. The distillery's adventure began with Arthur Dillon, who arrived in Martinique in the 1770s and fell in love with the heiress of a planter family. The tour is a reminder that the brand has stood the test of time. Today, the distillery is non-smoking: the cane is grown in the north of Martinique, the rum is distilled somewhere on the island. Adjacent to the boutique are the cellars, where the aged rums are matured and bottled on site. During the tour, which illustrates the different phases of production, an old steam engine dating from 1922 is sure to surprise you: it still works to activate the cane crushing system.
Distillerie La Favorite. Founded in 1842, the La Favorite distillery is one of the last two family-run distilleries on the island. It is also the last rum production unit in Martinique to be entirely steam-powered. Set amidst 60 hectares of sugar cane, it produces around 500,000 liters of pure cane juice rum every year between February and June, using a traditional, artisanal method and a 1905 steam engine. Regularly awarded prizes in national and international tasting competitions, La Favorite's white, aged and "hors-d'âge" rums delight the palates of connoisseurs the world over. Visitors to the distillery are free to wander at will, discovering step-by-step the production of agricultural rum right up to bottling, as well as the history of the premises, meeting the farm workers on site, before finishing in the brand-new boutique, where Emmanuelle and Célina take care of the tasting section. Never short of ideas, La Favorite distillery offers guided tours and tastings in small groups... at night! You walk through the distillery equipped with a headlamp before finishing with a traditional tasting session. It's an original experience that comes at a price (approx. €15 per person) and, above all, that's worth reserving!
Distillerie Hardy. In the heart of the Caravelle peninsula, a hotbed of Caribbean piracy, you'll find the home of Hardy rum, between Baie du Trésor, the ruins of Château Dubuc and Baie du Galion. Just before Plage de la Brèche, on the right, you'll find the Hardy distillery and its adjoining store. The Hardy distillery went out of business in 1994, but the production of this legendary rum has not been interrupted, and continues at another distillery not far away (Saint-James!). For all that, there's no question of renouncing the typicity of this emblematic Martinique rum. All the more so as the descendants of the Hardy family are still at the helm, and have managed to preserve this distillery as part of their heritage. In the 1970s, engineer Gaston Hardy modernized the production equipment (mill mechanism, concrete chimney, distillation column). Today, it's his grandson, Jean-Pascal Hardy, who has decided to breathe new life into this ruined distillery by launching a range of exceptional rums and thinking about a rehabilitation project. This would involve restoring and showcasing the machinery, creating a museum, an ageing cellar, etc.
Distillerie Depaz. This is the only surviving distillery in Saint-Pierre. Before the eruption of Mount Pelée in 1902, more than twenty distilleries were located in the region. The plantation, destroyed in 1902, was rebuilt seven years later by Victor Depaz, the family's sole survivor, who was in Bordeaux at the time of the disaster. The plantation stands apart from the city, watched over by the impressive Mount Pelée. The climate and environment give the rum an esteemed quality, reinforced by a high standard of workmanship whose secret has been handed down from generation to generation. Today, the cane juice ferments in 12 tanks, each with a capacity of 30,000 liters. A self-guided tour of this historic site, punctuated by explanatory panels, provides an insight into the making of rhum agricole. A visit (free of charge) to the main building, now transformed into a museum, completes the tour, which ends with a tasting session in the boutique. Beyond all its machinery, the identically rebuilt Château Depaz overlooks a magnificent 5-hectare park with its majestic, century-old trees, and visitors will now have the pleasure of discovering the various rooms in the dwelling: its entrance hall, dining room, smoking room, games room, archive room and Mr. Depaz's study.
Distillerie Neisson. Founded in 1932, the Neisson distillery in Le Carbet is one of the last family-run distilleries in Martinique to grow its own sugar cane. Lovers of white rum claim that the island's "zepol karé", a famous rectangular bottle with a distinctive aroma that is more intense and fruitier than other rums, is the best on the island. This particular flavor is linked to the fact that Neisson's sugar canes, which stretch all around the distillery, grow on very fertile volcanic soil. The Neisson distillery recently began producing an organic A.O.C. rhum agricole, the only one of its kind in the world, as well as the astonishing Esprit at 70°. The distillery is open to the public, and visitors can follow the various stages of production and discover the production tools, not forgetting the tasting session in the boutique, which houses the distillery's premium beverages. In 2018, Neisson was awarded the "Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant" label, a first for a rum distillery in Martinique.
Maison La Mauny. This is one of Martinique's most emblematic estates. The effigy of the tête marée, the traditional headdress that symbolizes Martinican elegance, is no stranger to the region. To visit Maison La Mauny in Rivière-Pilote is to enter the heart of AOC rum production in Martinique. It's one of the island's largest rum producers, pouring out nearly three million liters of rum a year! It was in 1749 that Ferdinand Poulain, a Breton newly arrived in Martinique, acquired the estate after marrying the daughter of a local planter. He named it after his wife: La Mauny. Initially dedicated to sugar production, the estate, nestled in a verdant valley in southern Martinique and surrounded by sugarcane fields, began producing rum in 1820. Passed into new hands in the 1930s, the estate expanded rapidly after the Second World War. Owned today by BBS, created by the Bellonnie family in association with the Bourdillon family, who have greatly contributed to the promotion of Martinique's agricultural rum, Maison La Mauny is part of the same group as Trois-Rivières (Campari). The tour of the site is well organized. Aboard a small train, a guide explains the various stages in the production of agricultural rums, from the harvesting of sugar cane (from February to the end of May) through to distillation, crushing and fermentation of the resulting juice, then blending and ageing. The tour leads right into the cellars, where the art of blending and ageing old rums is revealed. Aboard the train, you'll also discover the old manor house, orchards and cane fields, before the ultimate stop: the tasting session in the Cabane à Rhum. Here you'll discover the estate's latest creations: the generous, gourmet rums that are La Mauny's signature, those aged in acacia barrels (a novelty!), the single-varietal La Wouj range (based on red cane), and of course the liqueurs, one of the estate's flagship products. The estate also organizes tailor-made themed tours for all kinds of visitors (connoisseurs, cruise passengers, seminars...). In some cases, you'll even have the chance to meet Daniel Baudin, the estate's cellar master, crowned "World's Best Cellar Master" by the International Rum Conference in 2019. Families can spend a pleasant day here, taking the time to visit, learn, taste and even eat at Kay Mimi, the on-site restaurant located at the foot of the distillery. A visit is highly recommended when the plant is in operation, from February to the end of May. Amidst the trucks transporting the cane (cut exclusively by hand here), you'll be up close and personal with the rum-making process. Maison la Mauny also offers workshops on food pairing, led by chef and food blogger Prisca Morjon, subject to advance registration. And why not end the day with a swim on the pretty beach of Anse Figuier? At the IWSC (the International Wine and Spirit Competition) in London in November 2020, considered one of the most recognized competitions in the spirits world, the Trois-Rivières distillery and Maison La Mauny won the following distinctions: "Best Rum Producer 2020" and "Best Spirits Producer 2020".
Trois-Rivières. Heading further south, we reach the Trois-Rivières distillery with its magnificent Père Labat-inspired mill. With a breathtaking view of Diamond Rock in the background, the distillery looks like something out of a movie set. It produces one of Martinique's most popular white rums, as well as one of its most award-winning aged rums! Here, it is said that the canes grow with their heads in the sun (hence the strength of the rum due to the strong sunlight) and their feet in the water, due to their proximity to the sea, a salinity and minerality that are found on the palate. Founded around 1660 by Nicolas Fouquet, King Louis XIV's superintendent of finances, Plantation Trois-Rivières is one of Martinique's first distilleries. Here, you can appreciate the remains of the old factory (no longer in operation), which is still open to visitors. The guides explain the ancestral methods used to make Trois-Rivières agricultural rums, from cutting the cane to ageing. It's a great opportunity to talk. On your way out, stop off at the foot of the majestic cheese tree, inhabited by thousands of "Touloulous" (Martinique's little red crabs), swarming everywhere! From the terrace overlooking the plantation, you can taste the prestigious vintages and cuvées of Trois-Rivières, distinguished worldwide by their power and extraordinary aromatic richness. The talent of the audacious cellar master, Daniel Baudin, is no stranger to this as well.
Habitation du Simon. Yves Assier de Pompignan took over this former sugar refinery in 2010. A businessman with a passion for rum, he embarked on a crazy gamble: to create a new rum distillery that would embody the history and richness of this unique terroir. And so the A1710 brand was launched: A for artisanal (because everything here is made by hand), 1710 corresponding to Jean Assier's arrival in Martinique. From the outset, the positioning was clear: to produce rums of excellence. With the aim of producing rums from different varieties of cane, with longer fermentations to retain all the aromatic potential of fresh cane (the brand's spearhead), distillation is carried out in an all-copper Charentais still, complete with a seven-plate column. A second still was commissioned in 2023. A1710 is very much oriented towards spirit tourism, offering particularly interesting themed tours, and has even converted the former main house into a guest house, to accommodate rum stays. Guests come and take part in every stage of rum production, from cane cutting to crushing, fermentation and bottle dressing (all bearing the famous trigonocephalus, the snake responsible for the deaths of thousands of cane cutters on the plantations). And six months later, the apprentice technicians receive the case of rum they've made themselves! It's a particularly enriching introduction to the very heart of rum-making, and shows the full extent of the know-how involved in this divine beverage, whose quality is constantly improving.
Rhumerie La Baie des Trésors. This rum distillery is named after a bay on the magnificent Caravelle peninsula. Legend has it that a treasure was lost by a Spanish ship in the depths of this bay. Today, that treasure has reappeared in the form of a new rum distillery on the Galion farm. Since 1849, when the factory was acquired by a certain Eugène Eustache, it has supplied sugar cane to the Galion factory, the only sugar factory still operating on the island. With its 750 hectares of planted land, it is Martinique's leading sugarcane producer.
The idea of creating an agricultural rum therefore emerged naturally. Its terroir stretches across the entire Caravelle peninsula. And that's exactly what makes this new rum distillery so special: Baie des Trésors produces 100% parcel-by-parcel rhum de terroir, using only cane from the Galion estate. Each plot of cane is clearly identified. Cuvées are made from cane that has grown on the same plots, benefiting from the same exposure to sun, wind and humidity. Baie des Trésors rums are defined as the purest expression of Martinique's terroir: no sugar, caramel or other inputs are added, allowing the terroir to express itself fully. Only 45,000 bottles were produced this year, a small but promising production. Real treasures!
Rhumerie Braud & Quennesson. This is the latest addition to the family of Martinique agricultural rums. The arrival of this new rum distillery, Martinique's southernmost, marks the rebirth of an emblematic site: the old Le Marin factory founded in 1866 by the Braud & Quennesson forefathers, which is steeped in Martinican memory and has been closed since the 1970s. Planted with cane, nestled between the mornes, this exceptional site benefits from a unique terroir and a particularly warm, humid microclimate, which confers exceptional qualities on the rum: aroma, freshness and smoothness. According to cellar master Stéphanie Dufour, the cane has one of the highest sugar contents on the island. This year, only 100,000 liters of this elixir white rum were produced, in 3 limited editions: 59, 55 and 50 proof. In three years' time, the range will be extended to include aged rums. In the meantime, this site steeped in history promises to become a mecca for the spirits industry, with a beautiful boutique and a botanical garden planted with coffee, calabash, cheese and mango trees... a delightful place to stroll. The ruins of the old sugar factory are still clearly visible. Cane is currently distilled at the Simon dwelling, but the De Gentile family, who are at the head of the project, hope to launch their own distillery in a few years' time. A promising new venture!
HBS distillery. Relaunched in 2020, this distillery, the most northerly on the island, dates back to the 17th century. It produces artisanal agricultural rum in small batches, distilled in copper stills, which sublimate the aromas of HBS rum, whose canes benefit from the very rich volcanic soil, due to their proximity to Mount Pelée. The work is done by hand: the canes are cut and harvested by hand to preserve their quality, all year round, resulting in the marketing of small, confidential cuvées (500 to 1,500 bottles per cuvée) several times a year in white and aged (with or without finishing in old cognac or whisky casks...).
