The best restaurants Bolivia

Timetable

Restaurant opening times vary widely. Traditional restaurants are open as in France, for lunch and dinner, often with a weekly closing day (or two), usually Sunday (restaurants open on Sunday evenings in La Paz are rare). Small local restaurants are open for a single service eight hours a day. If restaurants open early in the morning, they close around 2pm. Those that open late in the morning provide service until around 7pm. And then there are those that open around 5pm and close late into the evening. Restaurants catering to tourists are generally open every day, from morning to evening, without interruption. In Uyuni, the town on the Salar, most restaurants are only open in the evening, as during the day travellers are out on excursions... Market comedors are generally open from morning until 2 or 3 pm.

Budget & Tips

Eating out in the markets. Throughout the country, mercados often have a comedor where you can enjoy local menus for next to nothing! For lunch, they often offer an almuerzo formula consisting of soup and a main course for a handful of bolivianos (between 10 and 20 Bs per menu).

Restaurants. Virtually all restaurants offer lunchtime almuerzo formulas at attractive prices, with soup and main course for the smaller restaurants (around Bs 40), plus salad bar, desserts and drinks for the better restaurants (up to Bs 70). A la carte prices vary enormously according to the choice of restaurant. The cost of dinner is generally higher than that of lunch. And, with a few exceptions, the prices charged by good restaurants are not prohibitive.

What costs extra

The tip is normally already included in the bill, but there's nothing to stop you thanking someone for good service or special attention... It's a habit we've gradually lost, but one that's regaining all its meaning as a way of thanking those who make the effort and deserve it, especially as the cost of living is not expensive for a European in Bolivia.

The local way

Bolivia is a country of great climatic, geographical and cultural diversity: its gastronomy reflects this diversity. While each region has its own typical dishes, most are accompanied by sopa (soup) as a starter, and bread, potatoes in all their forms and (very) hotaji (chili pepper) sauce. In working-class neighborhoods and rural areas, sopa is sometimes the only meal of the day. It's also a smart way to eat at altitude. There is a wide range of recipes, which differ from region to region. The main courses are generally served generously and will satisfy even the biggest appetites. As for international cuisine, the cities of La Paz, Sucre and Santa Cruz have everything to satisfy the most demanding palates.

Here are a few words to know when it comes to Bolivian tableware:

Ají : a condiment widely used in Altiplano cuisine; be careful, it stings! If you're not used to it, it's best to abstain. Or try it... but just a little! In restaurants, just say "sin ají" and we'll understand.

Charquí : dry, salty meat that can be kept for a very long time.

Choclo : hard, sweetcorn , very popular in Bolivia (the kernels are removed from the cob with the teeth, and can be served with cottage cheese).

Chuño : dehydrated potatoes. They are left to harden overnight at temperatures below 0°C; the next day, they are compressed until water runs out. This operation is repeated for several days, until absolutely no water remains. The potato then turns black.

Locoto : red, green and sometimes yellow pepper, similar to our bell bell pepper, but smaller and, above all, much hotter!

Llajua : a spicysauce made with locoto, tomato and a little onion, seasoned with aromatic herbs that vary from region to region. This is the national sauce. Be careful, it's often very spicy!

Humita : sweet and savory choclo dessert.

Salteña : This is an empanada, originally from Salta in Argentina. This delicious baked turnover is filled with meat (beef, chicken or other), egg and various vegetables. The juicy salteña boliviana is usually eaten in the morning between 10am and midday. You'll find it all over the country.

Tucumana: similar to salteña, but without the juice; it is also fried and the dough is different.

Yuca: a tuber that replaces the potato, very common in eastern Bolivia. You'll recognize it as manioc.

To be avoided

Don't drink tap water, prefer mineral water: La Cabaña, Vital or Cristal or the very good Viscachani carbonated. Also among the carbonated drinks, try Papaya Salvietti.

Avoid drinks with ice cubes (especially those sold on the street), as well as pre-cut fruits and vegetables.

Kids

In all tourist towns, restaurants, especially hotel restaurants, offer menus or specialities for children. Baby milk is readily available in major cities, but baby food is very rare. Bolivians often give soups and rice to the little ones.

Smokers

Smoking is prohibited in enclosed public places. In practice, the law is sometimes circumvented in small establishments in villages and rural areas.

Tourist traps

Be careful where you eat. Don't think you're going to die just because you've tasted chicken-foot soup in a local market, but take precautions and, if you've got a weak stomach, avoid street stalls: they're pretty rudimentary. On the Altiplano, condiments( notablyaji, chili pepper) are used to excess, which is not the case in the Oriente. Most travellers don't much appreciateaji, and most restaurants today offer international or local dishes, but with no particular flavour.